BAHA'I REMINISCENCES DIARY LETTERS AND OTHER DOCUMENTS o JOURNAL-DIARY mopmmiTwns APRIL'---------MOVFMBfK ----------------------------- imthrfe FOLIOS ---15Y CHABLES MASON REMIY VASHINGTON'D-C- coprl touoL DAI U JODEK AX DIARY UROFEAH TRATLS November 3rd Cbarlaa Mason Remey prefac; When I returned to Amerioa Inst Fall from my summer tour of the British Isles and the Pioneer Baha'i centers in Northern, Western and Southern Europe, 1 fait that the old Europe that i knew so well and enjoyed so much in my youth no longer held attraction for me. So far as its glories and educational advantages were concerned that was all a closed ohapter for me and of the past one that I had no desire to try to reopen. However from enother viewpoint last year'a travel abroad opened up for me new vistas in Europe and a new European world as it were. This was something that grew in ay thought and so developed until I found myself ready and looking forward to further contacts with the pioneer Baha'i Teaching Campaign in the European countries. Thus this thought grew end developed in my mind with the result that now 1 am off again to the old world to contact there with the new Europe that is being established by the heroic Baha'i Pioneers now working and serving in the Guardian's Plan for the triumph of the Faith as it rises above the ruina of the old civilizations to form and to inspire the new Great Baha'i World Universal Civilization of the future. C- Mason Hemey Washington, D. 0. V.8.A+ 27 April, 1948 .Tuesday. 27 April. 1046 - On 8 Pennsylvania Train between Baltimore and New York City. Another very, very busy day. In the morning I went to the Hallway Express office with two sets of prints - one black and one blue of my twelve drawings for the Baha'i Temple for Mount Carmel where I expressed these to the National Baha'i Archives In Chicago with a letter to Gertrud* StruTen, Curetorlx of The Archives, explelning that bacauaa of the way in Palestine 1 can not send these to Shoghl ffendl now at this time but that should anything happen to me these prints should he sent to the Guardian. She original tracings from which these prints wort mode were deposited In a metal tubs box In ths safe In my home at #2440 Massachusetts Avenue In Washington. furthermore at the same time I sent to Helen and Lew Eggleston for the Library at Lonhelen Ranch, bound copies in eight Tolumee of or travels in Europe of last summer and my two Letln American tours of the last two winters. Hilli the man of all work and John the colored men came to the house and we three worked herd ordering every.thing - packing and cleaning and finally by six o'clock all was accomplished. It was reining, so after 1 had dressed and packed my hags, Keith came along in a taxi and took me bag and baggage to the Union Station where I Juat missed the eight o'oloek trein hut took one an hour later for Beltlmore to spend the evening with Ids Dennis on my way to New York. We had a pleasant visit and a bite of late supper in Ida's apart.ment and I oaught this train at one o'clock that is now taking me to Hew York. Wednesday. 8 April. 1946 - On board the S,S. Washington Bound from New York to Southampton I arrived in New York at nine o'clock after a not too comfortable short night in a day coach. Breakfast end to a drug store for a few necessities to take on my travels. Then I took a subway train up to the Cathedral of St. John the Divine - Just to fill in the time (it was stilltoo early to make any calls) and to see how the architecture of that edifice Is progressing. It is Indeed an architectur.al luxury rather than a religious necessity. Harely do I find any worshippers at all in that church, but today a Ness was In progress in one of the chapels where there was one priest with a congregation of four people. The architecture of the cathedral grows more Impressive - the construction is fine, sincere and magnificent. Proa the cathedral I went to the Kinney's apartment where I arrived before the family were out of bed and dressed and had had breakfast. After a refreshing half hours talk with Cerrla about our Faith I returned to the Pennsylvania Station for my luggage and taxied to Pier #61 Rortn River where I boarded this ship - turning in in my berth for a rest and a sleep. When I awoke the ship was passing out through the Narrows. Then lunoh and more sleep. Dinner and more sleep. ThursdayT E0 April to Monday 3 Mey. 1948 These days of the voyage have eaob day and hour been Just like those of the proceeding day. X have slept in the moraines. The afternoons and at night reeding between times. There is a oompaay of many passengere - nice people but hardly interesting. People mostly of the upper working oless and of the lower middle clesa. There is music and danoing and movies with Masses every morning end confessions every afternoon for the cath.olics and much hymn singing and daily services for the Evangelical Protestants on board. t a movie the other night I talked with a Trench woman and told her something about the Behe'i .elth but we did not seem to get very far in thought. These tourist one olass ships ara not luxurious. This voyage has been very calm. The food ia plain but good in quality and ebundent in quantity. The eervloe la indiffer.ent . Because of the present day high cost of everything- even this rather rough tourist trsvel is expensive. But the people on board seem to have plenty of money, as usual I beg nig e having to pay so much for so little compared with oosta of European travel in the past. But this can not be helped - currency devaluation is the order of the day and one can not avoid it. Today for the first time on this boyege I've been writing letters. Tuesday. 4 Mar. 1946 - Oa board the S.o. Washington, between ~ Cobh, Ireland and Southampton. Shortly before noon today this ship entered the Harbor of Cobn where the Irieh pesaengers disembarked and now 1 expect to land in Southampton early in the morning. At CObh I received a letter from Marion Holley Hofman. The Friends in London here arranged a buay programme for me by which I will be kept Tery much occupied indeed the twelve days that i'll be in the British isles. Wednesday. 5 May. 1946 - at the home of Mr. and Mrs. John Ferraby, 35 Thornton Avenue, Sun.day 3. W- B Up this morning at six o'clock and efter many delays I landed between noon and ono o' dock making the run up to London arriving there shortly after three o'clock. On the way u}> the mein line peases very near the Woalem MoBque at Woking, a garden separating it from the railroad tracks thus giving a brief but a good view of the building. When the Master Abdu'l Baha was in London He visited this place of worship and gave an address there before a group of Baha'is and their friends - a photograph taken at the time of the assembled congregation hss been circu.lated among the Friends. Some years past i went to Woking to this place of Baha'i interest. At the school attached to the Mosque I was kindly received by tbe Mollah in charge. with him were sevarel Oriental Moslems and some English adherents to tbet faith. They had heard of the Baha'i Faith, but s didnt ooam interested. They were out to oonvert England to Islam. On arrival in London I went to the American Express Coop any in Haymarket to secure transportation to the con.tinent twelve days from now. Travel here is congested as it is the world around in these times and 1 was none too early to make my reservations through to Geneva to Ie ave here on May 17th. It was a fins day so I bosrded a bus riding out as far as Kensal Green and baok before coming here to to-. and airs. Ferraby's home where it had been arranged by the Bahais thst I should lodge for th night. London is So filled up with travellers that after trying for some time to obtain hotel accomodations for ms but without success this plan was resorted to by the London Friends. Ur. Ferraby is the Secretary of the London Bahai Assembly. I hed dinner with him and Mrs. Ferraby end a pleseant evening talking about Bahai matters. Thursday. 0 hay. 1946 - Cockburn Hotel, Edinburgh, Scotland. Mr. Ferraby end I came into town this morning, both going to the American Kxpresa Company to eoutinue my business there where weiparted, he golgg to his business for the day - I tazylng to Kingacross station where I took a fast train for Edinburgh arriving bare at six oclock end ooming to this hotel where the Friends had engaged accomodations for me. Shortly the Pioneer, Isabel Locke, called. She hed 6 dinner with me. HoIf pest seven found us st tbe Baha'i meeting in the chamber of Commerce rooms in Charlotte Square. Just across the Square at number seven, the Master Abdu'l Baba was entertained on His visit to this dty on His second visit to Great Britain In 1918. We were eighteen in meeting and there was interest and a good spirit manifest. After the meeting, Jean Court, who is sIso pioneering hare, Isabel Locke and another Pxiend and I went to the International club, where we had some light refreshment before separating for the night. Friday. 7 May. 1948 - Oookburn Hotel, Edinburgh, Sootland. I spent the morning writing letters and st noon went to lunch with Jean and Isabel after which they went to their respective business occupations. The afternoon I spent first going up to the eastle to visit the National Scottish War fceaorlel built after the Flr3t World War - a most interesting end carefully worked out wer record In stone - ell very much in charac.ter with the Scottish background of the Castle. I also visited a most Interesting exhibition of ert - that of the Royal Scottish Academy on Princess Street. Of all the exhibitions that I have seen et home and abroad these recent years, this was to me the most sympathetic and Interesting on the vdiole. The drawing, painting, sculpture and architectural renderings was ell very modern in spirit. This work showed the construction end knowledge and feeling of anatomy which for the most pert modern drawing lacks. I was Tery pleased and satisfied with all I saw. 'Phis ert was not so wholly divoroed from the patterns of the pest such es is most modern work. This afternoon I went to Soslyn Chepel. Fifty three years ago this coming summer I made my first visit to Edinburgh with ay parents, brothers and sisters. At that time we made the excursion by carriage from the city down to Roslyn Castle and Chapel - the latter being an interesting, unfinished place of exotic architecture, showing strong Spanish influences in its decoration. At that time ay sister liary - eleven years old - mss not interested in arohiteoture as 1 woe - I being ten years her senior, so Instead of accompanying us into the Chepel on our sightseeing she Insisted on remaining on the outside where e horse, in the absenoe of the driver, had been tlthered to feed, the feed bag had overturned end the onta emptied out on the ground in such e way that the horao couldnt reach the fodder. Mary said that she saw tears of disappointment in the horse's eyes, so rather than spend her time sightseeing she proceeded to gather up the oats and feed them to the horse. To her this was the im.portant thing of the moment. In my family hours of reminisolng years after this event was recalled, so today I am sending my slater a 8 poet card of Roslyn chapel to recall to her this episode. Returning to Edinburgh, I had tee and then turned into bed at my hotel hoping to stave off by rest a 3light cold that I took yesterday, After dinner I found my way to Jean Court*s apartment at 7 Hope Park crescent where a group of ten of ua Believers met for a fireside meeting talking about our Faith until late into the night, Saturday. 8 bay. 1948 - Grand Hotel, Manchester, England I left Edinburgh this morning et half past ten o'clock for Manchester - a run of about six hours. Isabel Locke, Jean court Bad one of the men Believers whose first name was Brie esme to the train for a word of good bye. On arrival in Manchester, I came here to this hotel where the Friends had mad* s reservation for me. I've been suffering e bit from a cold oontraoted between London and Edinburgh so on arrival here at this hotel I turned in for a nap. Shortly I was aroused by a telephone eall from Mr. Josephs, a Persian Baha'i living here In Manches.ter whom I had met on my visit here in 1920. He welcomed me very heartily end I bad dinner with him here In the hotel after which ho suggested that I might be interested in going to the theatre but I felt that bed was better for me ao by nine o'clock I was tucked in for the night. Mias 3. A Ridgeway was the first Believer in the Baha'i Faith here in Manchester. She wae e weaver of .ailk end for aome years in the 1890's bad worked in silk weaving factories in America. There in America, shortly after the turn of the century, she heard the Bahe'l Message end Believed. On or about 1905 - 1904 her address wee given me along with those of others of our Faith scattered about as what we now term "isolated Believers". She, by that time having returned to England, her home country. A correspondence was established between us thet led to ay coming tp Manchester in April 1908 when I spent a few hours with Misa Ridgeway. I found her in her smell homo in Smith Street, in Pendleton - a suburb of Manchester, one of those very small and dreb houses of the working people of which one sees blocks thst extend for alles in the manufacturing towns of England. Miss Ridgeway, then nearing her sixties, was plying her trade. She was a smell end a very active person and her ebsorbtlon In tbe Cause impressed me much. We hed an evening together, I returning to Manchester to take a midnight train up to London on my way to tbe continent and on to the orient. Sunday. 10 May. 1948 - Grand Hotel, Manchester, England. At ten o'clock thlsmorning came the brother of Mr. Josephs and a cousin, Anoyat Semah - David. Then shortly appeared Mr. Joseph lee. Secretary of the Mancbeater Aasambly. Vie all talked for a while, then the two Persian Friends and I started forth In their automobile for tbe 10 Joseph's home five or six miles from the heart of the oity In a residential district where the bouses were pleoed among attractive gardens enolosed in wells and hedges in the English manner thet gives much privacy to the homea even though in many casea the properties are small. hr. Josepha came Into the Baha'i Faith from Judiaam. For almost thirty years he has been established in a mercantile business here la Manchester and he has pros.pered In s financial way and hes served the Cause accord.ingly. Mrs. Josephs received me very cordially with their three teen age daughters and smell son. 1 understand there was a baby that didn't appear. There we all lunohed in their very nicely appointed home. Manchester and the vicinity was badly bombed In this last war. In fact the evidences of bombs are on almost every side In England. London was the worst of all. On my way to Edinburgh from London at Tor It and other towns stood ruins that It will require much reconstruction to obliterate. Also In Edinburgh were signs of air raids, but here In Manchester as In vast ereeB, now cleared of rubble in the heart of the town gave evidence of what the people hod undergone and suffered. For three years and more during the war for the pro.tection of hia family, Mrs. Josephs sent his wife and . children to live in Jamaica, he remaining In Manchester. 11 Bomba struck In the near vicinity of their home here - demolishing windows and doors. Ceilings fell and other damage was done to his bouse, but fortunately he came through without casualty. Half pest three in the afternoon found us all at the Baha'i center in the heart of the city in the same building with Mrs. Joseph's business. A plate glass window on the sidewalk level contained a large placard announcement of today's meeting as well as a general exhibit of Bahai books and photographs. About forty Baha'ia were gathered in this meeting - some of whom - Mr. and Mrs. Sugar and Mr. Craven 1 had met In 1914 when George Latimer end 1 ware teaching here in England Just before the outbreak of World War I.. Miss Ridgeway died in 1915 leaving a small but fervent group of Be.lievers to carry on the work. These Friends that I have mentioned were of tbet eerly end original'group, one of the most aetive of whom wes kr. E. T- Hall, now living at some distance and not eble to be with the Friends to.day. I reosll vividly ay afternoon in 1914 when Mr. Hall took George and me to Miss Ridgewey's grave where we read prayers and tablets! 1 returned to my hotel for e rest after the after.noon meeting that wes followed by tea, and et seven o'elook I wee beck again at the Center where fifty-four people were gathered, the subject of the talk being the Relation of Faith to the Divine Revelations of the Pest. 12 There was a Tory good response indeed to ay address. The people were very earnest In their attention end in their Faith. By nine o'dock I was in my room at the hotel for the night. Monday. 10 tiny. 1948 - Alexandra Hotel, Bradford, England My first meeting with Mr. Josephs was In 1920 on a visit to Manchester. He had reoently arrived in these parts from Persia and was opening up his business that has proved so successful. At that time he and Mr. Hell accompanied me to Liverpool and aboard my ship salling for Canada. On board we were absorbed in talking about our faith when suddenly we realized the ship was sailing down the Mercy with her bows pointed seaward! It was Indeed an exciting moment for all three of us until we found that these two Friends could be taken back to port by the pilot who left the ship several hours lster. In the meanwhile we lunched and continued our talk. This morning Mr. Josephs called for me and took me to the station for Liverpool where I spent several hours on my way to Bradford. To my embarrassment I found that my hotel bill had been taken care of hy the Friends and on arrive! at the atation - we were in a rush to make my train - Mr. Josephs had my transportation in band - flrat class acoomodation where aa it is my custom to travel third class - well! There was nothing to do but to ia accept these kindnesses In the spirit In which they were made, hoping that some day, somewhere and at some time I might be able to show my appreciation by b retaliating kindness. la Liverpool I spent a couple of hours going through and around the Cathedral that Is atlll under construction. This edifice bears acsrs of war bombing. St. Lukes Churoh nearby bad but its walls standing while areas here and there in the vicinity of these ohurohea were filled with demolition end debres. 1 reached Bradford and the Hotel Alexandra before dinner time and shortly was greeted there by Mlaa Dorothy Smith - Secretary of the local Baha'i Assembly. This lady had dinner with me end took me to the nearby Baha'i Center where at seven o'clock e group of about twenty five assembled for the evening. Here again was the same interest and attraction manifest that I had found in each of thees British communities of Prie.dB. Tuesday. 11 May. 1948 - itilton's Head Hotel, Nottingham, England. I was mat here at the railroad station shortly after one o'clock by Philip Hainaworth, Pioneer settler In Nottingham, and a member of the National Spiritual Assembly of the British Isles whom I hod met last year In London. We first drove up to the cestle surrounded by a park on a height overlooking the city, before coming to my hotaj. There in the park we Bat and talked for some time. This 14 young man has had the unusual experience of spending several weeks In Haifa two years ago and I was happy to hear him talk of hla meeting the Guardian as he told me some Interesting incidents of thoae weeks, A late luncheon and the afternoon writing. Two news reporters cal3e d for interviews and seemed interested in ell I could tellthem of the Baha'i ideals end works. The ?riends find publicity difficult to obtain these days in England due largely to the shortage of paper that keeps many dally papers down to very limited pegoa. Sir William and Lady Hornell called shortly before dinner and soon we were Joined by Philip Haineswortb. The three remained for dinner with me after which we all went to the Baha'i Center where a group was gathering. In ell there were thirty seven people. One of the friends remarked to me that It was the largest meeting yet held in Nottingham. My subject was the "Universal Religion and the Coming Universal Civilization". There was a good response. One man - a soap box speaker who at the close of the progrea drew a few people about himself in one oorner of the room and talked his atheistic theories to them. Philip Haineswortb who was in the ohair didn't appear to be troubled by the effoir. In America we would not have allowed aueh an Interruption but in England these Iconoclasts are allowed to let off their pent up steam. On visits to London more than once I have been in Hyde IR Perk on a Sunday moraine and heerd Ansrohists, nielists end other revolutionaries speaking end denouncing King end State with the police looking on end allowing each orator full expression of his ideas but by word only. There was perfect order in the crowd. I am greetly Impressed by the rapid growth in recent years of the Baha'i Faith her# in Greet Britain. The Pioneer movement in the Cau3# in the British Isles is bringing fine and substantial results. v.edneadav. 1? May. 1948 - Grand Hotel, Northampton .England Taking a 10:35 train from Sotting hem, I found myself here in Northampton shortly after one oclock. The way was through e pastoral country so different in character from the manufacturing regions of the midlands and farther north through which I have been travelling for In England like in America and other lands the natural scenery is beautiful where man hes worked in harmony with it, but where camera lal interests have ruled one sees naught but ugliness and miserable conditions, no rural soenery Is more bautiful than thet of England with its ruined iry covered abbeys and castles, its thatched cottages, walled gardens and fields framed In hedge rows all making a most beautiful picture with here and there church towers and spires arising above the church yards with their ancient atones and trees. But on the other hand the endless -commercial areas where the people live In smell begrimaed 16 house set in rows by tne hundred with no green below end the firmament above blech with smoke - ell make fox a desolation And a drabness of life that is indeed dlsmel and bereft of the beauty that nature hB3 provided for men. Mrs. Aboa Gregory, Pioneer teacher of the Ceuee here in Horthampton met me et the stetlon end taxied -with me to this hotel. Late in the afternoon I went to Mrs. Gregory's home at 1 St. Michaels Mount which is the local Baha'i Center. , Mrs, Gregory lives with her mother end little daughter. Her husband of the Royal Air Forces was killed in the late war. There, with Mrs. Gregory and two young bright and attractive Persian Baha'i girls who are here in England from Teheran studying nursing, I had tea- then muoh con.versation at supper, and in the evening we were joined by sixteen or seventeen friends and attracted people, the meeting lasting on until between ten and eleven o'clock. There was a very fine spirit of response showing the good pioneer work thet bed been done In preparing end confirm.ing this group of people. Here in England as well as in many other parts of the world, religion has become a very cold proposition quite devoid of spiritual life and vigor. With the coming of Bahe'o'llah and Hia message the mission in the world of Christ was accomplished end completed. Therefore now in these days formeland formulated Christianity is sterile and has nothing to give to the "people. The people are feeling this too and consequently 17 ere seeking spiritual solace elsewhere - thus many are being led to the Bahai Faith. Thursday. IS May. 1948 - Birmingham, England. This morning 1 took a walk around through the town of Northampton. Some of the churches and houses are of the medieval period. St. Peter's Parish church is par.tially in the old Saxton Romanesque style with later Oothic additions end so Is the churob of 3t. Sepulcher - all in.teresting from the view point of the architect. At twelve twenty-five I entrained for Birmingham where I arrived after an hour and 8 half of travel and after lunch.ing I taxied out to the home of laerion and David Hofman. There I saw for the first time their baby. Little iiey, about a year old. Shortly Haaaan Sebrl, an Egyptian Baha'i, came in. '.Ve talked about our friends in Cairo and India and Port Said end I learned muoh about the recent happen.ings in the Cause in Egypt. Tea was served end ere long called kr. jftrshall of the Quaker Faith - a newspaper reporter to whom I gave an interview. He knew ksrion and David very well and waa most sympathetic with the Baha'i teaching. In time David came In from his days business end after supper he drove me to the Imperial Hotel down in the central part of Birmingham where in a parlour chairs were arranged for ea advertised meeting. In ell thirty seven were congregated. For .several this was their first meeting. The spirit was very IB good and fine. A discussion followed Bud it wes almost eleven oclock when David and I returned to his home where Marion served us with hot chocolate. After more telk Datid took me to a guest house - not far distant where lodging and breakfast had been engaged for me. Friday. 14 may. 1948 - Kinborn Hotel, Bilstol, England 1 was up and out at an early hour this morning walking about visiting two modern Gothic churches before it we3'tlme to oall at the Hofmana. David had gone to business so I had a short visit with Marion before taking my bags on to a bus to the railroad station. Checking my luggage I went up into the oity to the Town Hall and to the World War I Memorial. Both of these buildings es.caped the bombs in this recent war but on all sides ruined buildings were plentiful. It is a very ssd sight in all of these towns to see so much destruction. In the late 1890's I was in this city. Little did people realize in those days the destruction that was stalking the world*. On my return to the station to entrain for Bristol I found Mr. Marshall on the lookout for me. with him was a press photographer, so I posed for them and was snapped. He hoped that his article will come out on Sunday. On arrival in Bristol I came here to this hotel where the Bahai Friends had made a reservation for me. Everywhere in England in these days the accomodations and the food is poor and very expensive indeed for what 19 one receives when oompered with our prices in America even inflated os things are now in our country. But I should not complain even thus to myself in thought, since I em here hy my own choice I should take things as they are. After a walk around Bristol in toe vicinity of the hotel, luuob and a nap. I was waited upon by two Baha'i Friends who had gone to the station hoping to meet me. I was on the lookout on descending from the train as Marion Kofman told me she had notified the Secretary of the sri8tol Assembly of the hour of ay arrival. But in the crowd we missed. At tee time we walked around to flf> and 17 Royal York Cresoent so that I might sea this gueat house where the Master Abd'ul Bahe stayed on his visit here in Bristol. From the terreoe we hsd a fine view extending down and ovar the olty and couitay. Before dinner I went down into town to see the Cath.edral a somewhat late Gothic structure that escaped the bombings. Bristol has many churches end fine buildings end of these a number were bombed. I've Just been over to St. Andrews Church neer this hotel. Kothing remains of it . save the wells and piles of rubble amid which bushes and 8appllng3 are now growing up. It will be a long time before these marks of destruction disappear. After dinner one of the Friends called and conducted me to the BBha'i Center, a comfortable room in a quiet 80 street where nineteen of us, eleven men and eight women were gathered. The seme spirit of attraction was here that I hBve found in all these new assemblies in Great Britain. It was for me another inspiring and satisfying experience. Saturday. 15 gay. 1946 - The Hampton Hotel, Cardiff, wales Todey I enter ay seventy-fifth year. Some years ago I found noted In my grandfather meson's disry of May IStfc 1074. "We had a boy baby born this morning in our home. He is a spritely little fellow". My years are rolling along but I seek refuge in ay sister Merys remark that I don't act ay age. At half past ten oclock or thereabouts I was at the station with my luggage but seeing that I had a little time before entraining for Cardiff, I welked over to the not distant church of 3t. ary Radcliffe - e fine example of late perpendicular Gothic that I recalled visiting when in Bristol many years ago before I he.rd of the Baha'i Faith. Although built on the elaborate scale of s very large church, this church is in realltv not so large es its composition would suggest. Decorations were in progress for tomorrow Whitsunday. I spent half an hour wandering about examining the many memorials so characteristic of those English churches that testify to tho close link between the church, its people 8nd the history of the oountry. The early Bfternoon brought me to Cardiff. Having 21 ieen advised that tue Baha'i Friends had engaged a room for me end knowing the address of the hotel and the place and hour of tonight's meetlne I didn't advise them of the hour of mjr arrivel wishing to be of ee little trouble to them as possible, notwithstanding however, on my arrival in Cardiff I wa3 met at the station by Hugh McKinley, one of the young pioneers - a boy of twenty-three, bringing me the greeting of the assembly and conducting me to my hotel. On the way thither he hed lunch with me in e res.taurant. I rested for over an hour, then walked about the town - about the castle end into several churches and to the railway station where I cashed a check snd prooured e ticket to London. At six o'clock or efter Hugh McKinley came, we went to a meeting place - on toe way he having dinner with me. A fine group of people assembled - about thirty in ell - to beer The Message. Many questions were ssked end the discussion together with ay talk lasted for about two hours end a half. Hugh and his mother end several others walked with me to my hotel. This assembly bare in Cardiff is composed of all pioneers. Up until now none of the welsh have accepted the Faith. Nevertheless several of them are on the way end the Friends trust that they will soon be confirmed. I am greatlyimpreesed by the activity of the Bahais in England. Some years ago I used to visit England - 1907 - 1906 - 1910- 1911 - 1914 - 1921 and 1928 saw me in London sz for at least abort visits. In 1914 George Latimer and I wara inUnglsnd for several weeks, in tbose daya there were very fir Believer in England but they were few. This condition lasted for some years until comparatively reoantly when the present activity began to be manifest. Row these centers that I have been visiting and several others that I've not had time to inolude in my Itinerary of travel, are ooming right along in growth and. strength. Many of the pioneers are yonng both in years and in the Cause. Their enthuslema is both apparent and oontagious and they are working with one will and are attracting many. Sundav. 16 May. 1946 - Royal Hotel, Russell Square, London I made an early start this morning from Cardiff for London arranging to stop off for a few hours in Bath in order to try to see Isabel Carey, a Baha'i, whom I hadnt haard from for a long tlma. She received the Message from Emogene Hoegg in Florence where I first met her in 19Z7. I oouldn't find Isabel in the telephone directory so that was that, I utilining this time la Bath for sight.seeing. The Georgian buildings of Bath are very fine indeed. The city has a unity and a continuity in its houses thst to my mind makes it from this standpoint the most out.standing oity that I know of in England. The alty arch.itecture all hanga together as one composition - all in hormony as it were whereas the other typloal cities of 23 Bag land are moat inhaimonloua in their mixture of atylea of the buildlnga. I sometimes think that London la the worst big city in the world in its architectural in- hnnaoniee whereas on the other hand Dublin in Ireland and Edinburgh in Scotland both produce their own harmonies that approaches that of the town of Bath. The Abbey of Bath is a fine example of late perpen.dicular Gothic with good fan vaulting. I had seen thia building at some distance from the railroad a number of years ago in passing through Bath but thia was the first time I had seen the interior. Arriving at Paddington at four o'clock I camshere to the Hoyal Hotel, an immense taravan Serai where, through the kind Baha'i Friends, a room had been engaged for me. Us first concern was to go over to Mr. and Bra. Ferrabya home on the Surrey aide for the major part of my luggage that I had left there while touring England these paat twelve days. Being Whitsunday taxles were difficult to rind but I managed it and wns baok at the kotel la ay dinner Jacket and at the home of my old friend, Gertrude Baltt for eight oclock dinner. Thera wae Jnst the two of ua and wa had a pleasant talk about old tinea in Portsmouth, Hew Hampshire and Washington and of eourae we talked long and earnestly about the Baha'i Faith. It was midnight before I reached my hotel. Monday. 17 May. 1948 - On the Bight Rapide from London to B4 For many years I've wanted to see the Interior o. the Boyal Tiotorle and Albert Mausoleum et Frogmore new Windsor. This building ia open to the public but on# day In the year - Whltmonday - Bo I planned to go there today. This being a bank holiday, as they call it in England, the entire oountry seemed to be abroad. Taking my luggage to the Tletoria Station and checking it there I stood in a quaue for oer an hour for a hue to Windsor - bat it was a fine day end by noon I found myself in the town of Windsor crowded with holiday pleasure seekers. It waa but a short walk oyer the Frog- more. The roof of the mausoleum can be seen among the trees as one drives through the grounds of Windsor Ceatle. I first saw this muoh of this building fifty three yearB ago when I was here with my parents. The Mausoleum e very Tietorian built in the I860'a. Frankly it la not beautiful. The exterior is leas ob.jectionable then the interior. Italian in style it has no repose within in its composition nor in the multitude- oua materials of diverse colors and texturee that adorn ita interior. However, considering the epooh In whioh it was built one ehould be thankful that it is not worse than It is. Nevertheless I am glad that I've Been it for it ia the finest monument of its kind in England and there are but few in other parts of the world that surpass it In importance. 5 I bad hoped to be able to visit the Mausoleum or the Duke and Duoheea of Xent - aleo la the rounds at Frogmore - but the way waa roped off. nevertheless I had a distant view of this building. It didn't look to be aery interesting - a classic domed atsuoture rather elaborate. doing to the eest e I entered St. Georges chapel end looked into the Albert Memorial Chapel then went out on to the Horth Terrace of the castle. It waa a beautiful day and the view was fine out over kton and Stoka Pogea Church and church yard. Hera on the terrace I Joined a queue that finally took me into the room where the Queen's Doll's House is exhibited. Doubtless this is tba most el.aborate and meticulously carried out doll haven that has aver heen built. Two books have been written about It and beautifully illustrated in colored pictures. These I have read and 1 have studied the plana and illustrations. It is all Tery well done sad of interest in particular to one who has mada architectural modela. The execution of this miniature house is to my thought not done any better than lira. Thorn' modela of rooms that have been widely exhibited in America, but tba Queen Doll House has the advantage of representing an entire house with its rooms in relation to one another as If it were an aotual dwelling to be lived in whereas the Thorn Rooms are Just one room of a hous with possibly a 8-limpe into an adjoining room or hall or into a garden. 86 It was six o'clock when I reached London so I had a hurried dinner end found myself at the Bahai Center shortly before seven oclock for the Nineteen Day Unity yeast. Already a few friends were there. In all ten or a dozen cane in. Although the Center is not very far from Victoria Station and ay train for Paris did not eare until half past nine o'clock, nevertheless there were customs end Immigration officers to pass so 1 had to allow an hour for this business. Therefore ay tise at the meeting waa out abort. I was asked by the chairmen to Join in the reading. Then after this devotional part of the program waa over Z quietly slipped out and went to the station. It waa a abort but a pleasant contact with a few of those London Friends, while there I learned that Isabel Carey had married and now lives in some distant part of England. I was glad to hear of her activity ia Baha'i matters. In taking the n ight train from London to Paris I expeoted to be ewakdned at Dover and from there take a obanel steamer to Calais for a train on to Par.a. Buch waa y remembrance of this run years ago. But sow all ia different. One gets into his berth in London and gets out of it in Paris. The entire train being run on board the Chanel Steamer - a great improvement over the old way. Tuesday. IB May. 1968 _ 0n board the night train from Paris to Qeneva. 27 I arrived in Paria at nine oolock this morning. Leaving my luggage at the Gare du Hord, X proceeded leis.urely on Toot toward the opera on my way to the Amerioan Express Company to transact some business, on the way crowds were gathering on the ourbe and police holding bade cross traffic and shortly along came the Prlneess Elizabeth of England and tha Duke of Edinburgh, pro.ceeded by police on motor cyoles. I had seen by the London papers that they ware on a visit to Paris. On leaving the Express company I went to the Secre.tariat of thaEXoole des Beatu Arts on the %ual Malaquale to Inquire If my exqulsse and programme for the Baha'i Temple had been accepted ea ay thesis for my diploma. I oould find out nothing at all save the name and address of th offioial who approved or disapproved anoh etters. However before going to see this gentlemen I thought best to call on Hone. Toumon the Director of the Ecole dee Beaux-Art* to whom Julian Levi of Hew Tork had written on my behalf some months ago asking some questions shout theconcours de diplome. Hons. Toumon was not at home but would be In at two o'clook. I etrayed about the quarter past soinu of my old haunts - the house where X used to live at S3 rue du Dragon end then on down the rue de Grenellle to the corner Of the Rue da la Chaise whero stands the old Paleoe of the Princess Pauline Bonaparte where Claire and Rene Batigne 88 live and where they entertained Gertrude end me and about hundred of our friends at breakfast the day of our carriage aeranteen years ago*. I was tempted to stop and see if Claire and Rene were at home but on second thought I shrank from renewing and revising events of the pest with all their emotional distress, so I walked oa to the Bon Marche there to look at chandeliers suitsble for Pohlok church whioh commission 1 have not yet filled but which I think X will be able to eonsuaate this season because now instead of the 120 franca per American dollar the eiohange gives 00. Lunch in a restaurant and some minutes in the church of St. Germain de Pres end I was at Mons. Tournons* quarters at the Eoole des Beaux-Arta at two o'clock. This building in whioh he lives was one of the old palaiaes of Paris of the days of the Louis, klegent and Monumental in the French manner. Mile. Touraon responded to my ring at the door of their apartment. I had met her some months ego in Sew fork at a luncheon given by Alice end Julian Levi, and later in Washington X had ohown her some oourtesies. She greeted me most enthusiastically as did her mother end father - MonS. Tournon celling up the official to whom my communications had been referred to find thet my pro.gramme for ay diploma had been accepted. Tbus my first step toward my diploma bad been accomplished. After s pleasant visit with the Family Tournon X set 20 forth, on an excursion about Paris. The Invalides and SapoIcon' a Tomb - Pare la Chaise and the Basilica of the Sacred Heart consumed the afternoon until six o'clock when I returned to the Latin Quarter going to one of ay old haunts - a small restaurant near the odeon. One should not complain about the food in England. It la rather awful hut the English are very brave about It so the visitor ought not to complain. However today I have Indeed been enjoying the good food of Paris. It Is a real treat. Taking the Underground to the Gare du Herd after eome difficulty there I obtained a taxi that transported me and my luggage to the Gare de lyon where I boarded thl sleeper for Geneva, turning in before the train left the station. I had been tramping about Paris all day and was tired. Wednesday. 19 May. 1940 - pension HI nerva, Geneva, Switzerland. My train reached Geneva this morning at eight o'elook. X was not as quiok as eome others in leaving the railroad carriage so in the customs room I found myself plunged Into a crowd of people literally struggling to paas one another. This lasted for an hour but finally was through the gates and on my way hors to the liinerva Hotel - or rather Pension - where Etty Graeffe had engaged quarters for me several weeks ago. My first move wns to go to the Baha'i Bureau where I 80 found warm welcome. Stty Greeffe - Ana lynoh, Edna True, Kary Sprague and othera ere there, but my duty lny at the pa.a.a des Nations where the Halted Rationa Con.ference on Hunan Rights to hloh X an a delegate la in session, so thither I went. There in the Salle des Coneelllea i found Ulldred Mottahedeh of Raw York and Ogo Giaohery of Rone and abort, ly I saw Laura Dreyfus-Barney across the hall. Mildred and Dgo with Marlon Hofman fro England, Leroy loas ad I were the delegates appointed by the Rational Spiritual Assembly of the Oil ted Statee to represent the Baha'i In.ternational coseaunity but unfortunately Marlon and Leroy were not able to reach Genera In time for the conference. The auditorium waa filled with delegates fro any parts of the world representing long lists of international organizations all ehowing the Boat sincere desire to im.prove the condition of mankind the world around that all humanity might anjoy a high standard of human rights. The programme waa conducted in both Frenoh and English with the various speeches translated Into the other language for the benefit of those who understood but one of those languages. Thus the morning paeeed after wtiloh we went up to a restaurant on the top floor of the Palais where we lunohed looking out oxer the lake beyond which was Moat- Blano not visible today because of clouds. Shortly I re.turned to my room at the Penelon where I slapt for three SI bou.*. 3ince ay run from London to Edinburgh almost two waaks I've baan suffering first from ay sinus - then a bronchial ootigh that has bothered me particularly at night. Lately I've had pains in the top of ay heed ffoa excessive coughing and have been feeling quite miserable. Tonight 1 thought I would remain abed but after dinner decided to attend the night aesslon of the United Rations Conference arter which 1 returned early to ay room - eleven o'clock. Thursday. 80 Mar. 1048 - Pension Minerva, Geneva, Switzerland At an early hour I went to the Baha'i Bureau where Stty Qreeffe busied herself for ae for a few aoaants over the telephone finding a doctor to treat ae and half an hour later I was at Dr. Liehtenhum,s office where I had a going over. It seems that I have a "dry bronohltis" for which tha dootor prescribed - after which I joined Mildred and Ugo at the conference. Shortly the sessions closed for lunoh but as I had medicine to obtain I came into town for lunch. Then went to ay room for a rest to join the Friends at the Pelaia dea Rations for tha afternoon session convening at three o'olook. There wss no night session this evening so Mildred, Ugo and I came Into town together and had dinner at e Chinese restaurant. By nine o'olook I was In ay room a. waiting a nurse whoa I bad engaged following Dr. Lichten- baud's directions to give ae a treatment of "cupping"* The medicines have already had an effect and I am feeling 82 batter. Tas aures, a powerfully bulit woman of tbs Amazon.ian type, was moat efficient and In an Incredibly abort time bad applied *4 eupe to my back leaving these on for half an hour after which I slept. In the lore of my family I bad heard of "cupping" an a comnon treatment that used to be given a century ago but until today It never ocoured to me that such was ever resorted to In these day*. However some of these old techniques, dis.carded by us in America, ere still followed by European physicians end with good results. Friday. 21 May. 1948 - Oeneva, Switzerland. I awoke this morning feeling very muoh better indeed. Then on ny way to the Palnie den Nations 1 passed by the Baba'1 Bureau to get from Edna True the wording to in.scribe In tbe Register Book that the Baha'i Teaching Con.ference Committee asked me to prepare to receive the slg. natures of the Friends attending this conference. It was a fine day and 1 enjoyed the walk from the center of tbe town out to the Palais that Is In a park Just beyond the edge of the olty. Today's conference was a capitulation as it were, of the doings end sayings of these past four days. There was e grest harmony and oneneaa of desire and Intention on the parts of all of the members of the conference and there was s fine summing up of the rights that the masses 35 of the people tn nil parts of the world long for and the general hope as expressed was that little by little laws would be built up in various countries that will assure humanity its rights. To me it all aeemod vague and nebuloua but with little or no aasuranoe that tbla utopian picture would or could be realised for there wea no 8uggestlon of how these rights were to be obtained - nor how they were to be main.tained and guaranteed. In faot all of these human better.ment movements and the Marshall Plan and the world Bank: could end would be put to naught in face of another war. Therefore In my mind none will work with any aaauranee and stability until wa have a world goveranent to establish and to enforee when necessary law and order end Justloe between the nations. When such is established there will be t firm foundation for all these many world bettensent causes, but not before. In thees aeaalons I longed to give and explain to the people the Bahai principle of world government and the great need for this, but there was no opportunity for me - besides It would have been out of order for these people of the United Nations are convinced that the United Nations organisation as la will sad war among nations and they wish to adhere to this thought and this organization. Thus there waa no opportunity for any direct Bahai approach to the problem under conelderetlon. At the time of the establishment of the Leegue of Si Matlons siany of tbs Baha'i .rlends thought that this was the working out o. the Baha'i principle for World Peace. I never thought *o and I see no more hope now that the United Rations will accomplish this than I had tor the league. I came here to Genera convinced that the United Rations working on its present basis of consent was doomed to failure and nil that I have seen during these past days here confirmed me in my opinion. notwithstanding my viewpoint I have been deeply im.pressed by the sincerity and earnestness in their efforts to help humanity of these people gathered here. Good will baa brought them here end they trust that through good will and good volition on the part or humanity and the nations that world peace will be attained - that 1 by the consent of the people, as it were. But such is not the Baha'i basis of Peace as j see it. While love and brotherhood are most desirable end enrich life the lesser Pence of the Nations will be through the enforcement of justice, law and order end not alone through the power of good will and brotherly love. All this I longed to voice but there was no oppor.tunity, for all religious presentation was debarred from mention in these conferences. Nevertheless we three Baha'is made contacts and many people knew that we were Beha'is so I hope that these and further association will eventually bring these people to know more about the Faith. After -lunoh we three delegates framed and signed a letter - a 85 brief raport of the conference that is being sent to the National Spiritual Assembly in America. I am feeling better from ay bronchitis but felt the need of resting this afternoon so went to ay room the latter part of the afternoon going out to dinner and re.turning again to do some fanoy pen work on the Register Book for the signatures of the delegates to the Teaching Conference. While at dinner Euneoe and Jack 3huroliff - pioneers to Brussels came into the restaurant and we had a pleasant chat. Then later in the evening Doris lohse - also pioneer to Brussels - and John Carre - pioneer to Amsterdam called on me. Saturday. Eg Mny. itAS - Pension Minerva, Geneva,Swttxerland This morning with the Register Book I went to the Baha'i Bureau. Delegates were arriving from many parts and I saw a number of old friends and met an equal number of new ones. At two odock the first meeting of the Baha'i European Teaching Conference commenced with about ninety present - Edna True presided speaking in English - Laura Barney interpreting into renoh and Dorris Lohee in.terpreting into German - all went off very happily after which Dorle went over on to the lake front with me for an ice and a chat, we are both concerned about Leone Baroits. She and her brother have sold their home in Washington, so now Leone la without a home. 3he is not strong and we 36 wonder how ehe will manege her affairs - particularly care for the bulk of the materia. of the Baha'i archlrea that leone for some years paet haa devoted her life toward collecting, acting officially for the Baha'i Assembly of Washington? Tonight at seven o'clock the Banquet of the conference was held at the Hotel de la Pail - the hotel where tha Master Ahflul Bahe stayed while In Geneva in 1911. Ninety two of u,s were seated at small tables. During the first half of the meal I sat next to Alloa Dudley, Pioneer to Sweeden. Then I ohenged over to a table with Bruce Davison and his brlda, a pleasing German girl whom he married a few days ago. At half past nine odock there was an impressive programme of muaio and the reading of the account of the Baba Declaration made one hundred and five years ago to.night at this same hour quoted from the account in the Dawn Breakers. This was followed by a eariee of testimon.ials in ten languages made by Believers one from each of these tan Pioneer countries. I have been interested in meeting Dr. Hubert liathiae whom I had not seen for some years - not since pqarl Harbor Day. He is now a Believer living in Lisbon and la here with the pioneers from Portugal. I first met Dr. Mathias in Washington when he was attached to the German Embassy just before World War I, On the night of Pearl Harbor 37 there was a gathering of the Bahais in my homo and he was there. Knowing that pearl Harbor would precipitate war with Serai any we said goodbye to one another that night. The next day he wee interned with others of the Embassy staff and alnoe then I've often wondred how he was fare- lng and where he might be. Bow today we hare met and our meeting was most happy. During this interim I've thought of him often. Sunday. 3 Mar. 1918 - pension Minerva, Geneva,Switzer land At the morning seealon Baha'i administration was gcae into and explained at lengths by Edna True and Karr Sprague. Questions were asked and answered. At noon a group phot.ographer took a group photograph of all the Friends after which fifty of us lunohed in e nearby restaurant. I aat with the delegation of Friends from lyon whom I had met last year in their home city. This afternoon the subject of the morning was eontiaued - the session terminating ehortly before five o'clock. It was a fine afternoon and on leaving the Bureau I walked over Into the university quarter to the Pension des Bastions to oall on Hope Erwin of Washington. She was not in, so I continued on to oall on Use. Schmidt- Ragle who livaa near the Russian Church. She is a friend of Louise Sparrow Grlpon and Louise had written asking me to see this lady who is greatly lntereated in world govern.ment. 38 On ay way back to the Baha'i Bureau near the Cathedral I chanced to meet one or the Persian Baha'i students to.gether with Louise Baker and Hubert Mathias. They were on their way to e restaurant and asked me to accoapany thea which I aid. We had the beat meal that I'we yet had in Genera. Tonight# meeting waa diverted to an exposition o. the oovenant of Beha'u'llah and was explained to the people by Leroy. I owes. This program waa oyer before two o'dock ao I returned early to ay room. Monday. 4 May. 1948 - Pension Minerva, Geneve ,3wit*erland All morning and all afternoon in aeaslon, dwelling on the eplrltual aspects of the Baha'i teeohing. Ann lynch lunched with me and late this afternoon I took a walk along the lake front with Laura Dreyfus-Berney and we talked at some length. An early dinner in a restaurant near the cathedral - than to call on Hope Irwin whom I found at her Pension. Hope seems to be enjoying her studies here at the university. She is evidently working diligently. At half past eight this evening I was at the Athene# near the University for the public meeting of the Teaching conference. About a hundred and aeventy-five people were congregated there. Ugo Glaohery presided and the speakers were Mae. HYS of Brussels (speaking in French? and Marion Hofman speaking in English. Both talks were vary good .but the latter was the more stirring of the two. Thera 39 was a floe response In the congregation. Later I went to a restaurant for nllk with Jiunace and Jack Shurcliff. Tuesday. .S May. 1948 - Pension Minerva, Geneva,Switzerland Today as in the past days, we sat ell day in conven.tion in B happy interchange of thought. Publications, translations and other matters were discussed at some length. At seven o'clock came Hops Erwin to the Hotel de la Paix where she had dinner with me. Later were were joined for coffee by a beaux of hera, efter which they were off for en auto ride. I didn't get hia name. Be was s Swiss law student at the University. He didn't speek any English but was a very pleasant chap, good looking and with that charm that cultured Europeans have. At tonight's session of the Baha'is Mildred Mottahedeh and Ego Giaohery gave reports of our seeeion with the United Rations and then I gave ay impression of these meetings - the same thought that I've already noted in this journal - that I was deeply noved by the earnestness and desire of the delegates assembled from many parts of the world to im- prove human relations the world around but that I realized the utter inadequacy of the United Nations to insure huaan rights for the people. I told the FriendB how I longed for an opportunity to explain to this assemblage under the auspices of the United 40 nations the plan of Baha'o'lleh that whan carried out in world government would Insure for the world the human rights that they so slnoerely desired. But alast There was no suoh opportunity for me Tor any religious presenta.tion wee out of order. X had no hopes years ago that theLeegue of Rations could bring about world peeoe although at the time of its founding aany people attended gatherings of the Leage here in Geneya and had great hopes for It. Just as a few years ago in 3an Francisco any people were Tory enthusiastic orer the United Rations Programme for world peace thinking that world peace would grow out and develop from thla or.ganization. Theee attempts at world peaoe are based upon good will and consent whereas the Baha'i plan for world peace la founded upon justice and law and order - enforced when need be - end not left to choloe end good will that ey at any time quickly change to bad will end hatred, while 1 have no more hope that the United Rations can establish peaoe than I felt thet the League could accomplish the same - nevertheless among all thes people who are devoting theaaelvee ao arduously and slneerely to the United Rations surely there are some to whom the Baha'i Faith will make an appeal eo I feel it is to these people es individual* thet we Baba'ie should make our appeal. This is one ex. cellent opportunity for forming such contacts. 41 The united Rationa like tne League and like our aany denominational religious bodiee have tbeir very definite programme well established toward which eaoh of these or.ganization* la pledged to support and to work for. There.fore the best that we Baha'is can accomplish with eny of these movements is with the individuals that compose them. Here ia indeed e wide end e fertile field for Beha'1 en- deevor. So far es 1 have been able to eecertain no relig.ious, philosophical nor idealistic organisation has ever accepted the message of a manifestation es a unit or as a body. The acceptance has been by individuele eiagly or in smell nuabors, thus depleting tbeir orgaalmatlone by loss of these nunbera eapousing the new faith until theee old organizations either beoome static or disappear entirely. Such it baa been in the past history as well as in thin present day. When the world government, as outlined by Bahe'o'lleb is established by the nations, then we will have the leaser peace end a cessation of international hoe. tllltieal Toward the end of this evening session ago lechery gave a most interesting talk on Sutherland Maxwell's recent visit to Italy where he went to let eontraots for the marble work for the eneirellng structure about the tomb of The Bab on Mount Carmel. This Shoghl hffendl intends build.ing now at this time. Sutherland Uea made a most interest.ing design for this building. It is carried out in an 42 adaptation of the Indian style of architecture done in naturel marble and granite - all to be band carved with out repeated ornament plastically reproduced. I am Tory happy about thla for it ill establish a principal of decoration and construction of the highest order end will be an lnepirstion to thoBa ho ill build Bahai edifioee in other parte of the orld, for in time these other builders to come will emulate this high standard. After the close of the conference loon Carre asked me to here a cup of chocolate with him at a cafe. We had a pleasant talk. 1 used to correspond with his grand.mother ho as one of the early Believers La America. How shortly after midnight 1 am in ay room packing to leave Geneva in the morning. Wednesday. 6 May. 1946 - Hotel Bellevue, Bern, Svritserland Op early this morning and at half past nine a bus called for those of us stopping at the Minerva. Two other busses collected other Baha'is from various hotele and shortly before ten o'clock we were all off for Bern by wey of Lausanne, stopping for lunch on the woy. we arrived at this hotel in a light rainstorm shortly before five o'clook. A rest before dinner that was served to ua all in a private dining room at Beven o'clook. The tables were decked with Swiss and Bernese emblems end we had a very happy time. 43 At half past eight o'clock we all asembled In e ball near the hotel for a meeting that the Pioneere here had been arranging for some time. I calculated that we were about a hundred and slity In this congregation. I pre.sided speaking English that wea Interpreted into German by Hubert Mathias. Xtty Graeffe and Leroy loas gare the talks. They both spoke well. Xtty In Oerman - Leroy in English - and the congregation was e very receptive one. During .these pest few days of these fine meetings I're thought often of the first meeting of Baha'is ever held on the European continent. It was in Paris in the winter of 1000 when in my apartaant at 110 eue dea Rennes Henhert Hopper, Marle Squires, Theodora Maclaye, Mrs. Connor and I met to read tablets and talk of the Faith. May Bolles arranged the meeting but at the leBt moment was ill and couldn't be with us. Many other meetings followed in the nert tn or three yearn in Paris, but this maall group of fire was the first held. Mrs. Connor was a Believer from America who ohaneed to he in Paris at that time. In England at that time and before there were several Believers, Mias Rosenberg, Mrs. Thornburg and her daughter Mr. Thomburg-cropper. Thursday. 27 mst. 194S - Bellevue Hotel, Bern, Switzerland A muoh needed long and relaxing rest last night. This morning a bua load of Friends returning to Geneva .leaving at half past nine o'dock after whloh I went to the American Legation to inquire for my military pealts to enter Germany and Austria. I found tbat permission to these countries awaited me. Upon examination of these document I found them to be in reply to applications made by mo juat before leering home for Surope over a year ago and not thoae recently made before leaving Wash.ington, for these present travels. This I explained to the aecretary in charge of the ohenoery - but it made no difference when the permisalone were applied for. These permits are valid now. Hot knowing Juet on what day I will be entering Germany I could not give this date ao these papers will be sent on to Perla and when I know exactly when I am going I will call at theBnbaBsy there to have the papers filled out. I walked about the town this morning, had lunch la the old city then went to the hotel for a nap. Lata la the afternoon I met Borne of the Frienda in the hotel lobby, had dinner and at aight o'clock was at the looal Hall where the Behais met. Tonight thirty eight people came together and I talked to them on the Revelation end World government, my work being translated into German by two young women who took turne at interpreting. There was a good response. Abbes Begdadi and a Persian Believer aecompanled me back to the hotel, i asking them to Join me at a oafe en- routo where wo had milk and patiesery. 45 Friday. 28 May. 1948 - Hotel des Selata Peres, paris,France During these peet days of convention meetings la Geneva 1 have heen deeply Impressed by the moothneaa with which all natters and dlsouseions were presented and handled. This was demonstrated to all of us the good and sympathetic work of preparation end execution carried out by the luropean Teaohlng Committee. Kdna True has been the leading spirit In this organiza.tion and she has been splendidly supported by the other members of the oonmlttee. Edna presided In all of the meet.ings In Geneva and beside her sat Mary Sprague and Sylvia and Leroy Ioass of the Kuropean Teaching Committee. 1 was up and about town at an early hour this morning and at noon took n train with carriages froa Bern direct to Paris by way of Belfort. Proa the train I had a distant view of the rortrees of Belfort recalling to my memory ay visit there many years ago when I walked up to the foot of the great Lion de Belfort collmssal In size out out froa the living rock of the mountain to commemorate the heroic defense at this point by the French sgalnet the Oermans in the Franco- Pruesian war. Ais'. Aa X looked st the towne end country froa the train speeding on toward Pari, I realized how tired out and down la France now at this present time. Within lesa than the past eight years she has thrice been overrun and devasta.ted by her enemy, Gemany, end even now after all this blood.shed and destruction, ons hears voiced upon all sides the 46 .sue old ideale of love of country end national gloriea that have led to these ruinous and destructive combats that have so depleted this world and still keep the nations in this bewildering tunsoll in which humanity now finds itself I Nationalism baa served its day as Feudalism did in its bayday centuries ago and as Feudalism eventually be.came Intolerable and a menace to civilization and had to be abolished so now Rational Supremacies must be abolished for the weIfere end preservation of Humanity. This Rational system that onoe brought comparative peace to the world through the abolishment of Feudalism has now in its turn become ths greatest source of danger and misery to humanity. Sow Rationa lisa muat be re.placed by a world federation to maintain law and order and justice in the world lest we perishl In view of the nwly Invented atomic anginas of war there la no longer any national protection. Armies and Navlas ara now aa obsolete in the fees of the atomic bomb as would be the Homan Phalanx and the Homan Galley. Our only protection against the extermination of one nation by another la the establishment of Justiee, law and order among the nations as outlined la the Holy writings of Baha'o*llah eighty years ago. Let us hope and pray that the statesmen of the world will soon see this great naceaalty and arise to meat this situation before humanity suffers further from these cataa- 47 trophic calamities. My train reaches the Gare de L'iet, Parle, at eieren oclock and now before Midnight I find nyself here In the Hotel de Saints Perea In the Latin Quarter In the street of the seme name only e few doors from where 1 lived with my brother Will as a student many years ago at #55. Saturday. 29 May. 1946 - Hotel dee Saints Peres, Paria. 4 diamal rainy morning. On account of the downpour I did not leave the hotel until eleven oclock when I went over to the Grand Palale dee Beam-Arts to cell on Mona. Madeline who is the successor of my old patron Mona. Deglene aa architect of the Grand Palais. This gentleman ie now patron as well of the former Deglane Atelier at the Boole dee Beaux-Arta. Mona. Madeline waa out so I will telephone his office on Monday for an appointment. 1 need some preparation for ay Diplom and he will be able to ad- viae me. The American Express office cloaca at noon o I was too lata to do any business so I walked along the Grand Boulevards until I reaohed the Hotel Moderne on the Place e la Republlque. There I procured photographs of this hotel for my Bahai Reoorda since it was here that the Master Abdul Baha waa entertained at a banquet, one of ay old Beaux-Arts professors, Mons. Bourlet presiding. Incidentally the first night that I ever spent in Paria waa in this hotel when travelling with my parents and Returning to the Quarter I lunched In a restaurant near Saint Gem a In da Pres and came to ay room for a rest. Tonight the seating of commemoration of the nsoension of Baba'o'llah was hald at Miss Sandderson's apartment in Passy at 9 Rue da L'Annunoiation. Rera 1 found tan other Believers assembled. We were saran women and four aen Baha'is. The meeting was oondueted in Frenoh, Mrs. Sanderson asked as to read a tablet but since ay French at bast is im.perfect and 1 am out of practice I begged that someone other than ae do this reading. We hod a very pleasant meeting at the close of wbioh tea was served. There I met s son of ay old end very dear friend, Ulrta Tallollah Tergha of Teheran, we conversed for some time, he eventually accompanying me over to the left bank of the Seine. He Is a student at the Sorbonna and lives not far rrom where 1 am staying, one loves all of the Baha'is but now and then there is one to whom one is drawn In a par.ticular and 0030 way. Suoh was ay association with Tslliolah Varghs and it was a very great pleasure to meet and talk with his son and hear about thin old and dear friend and his fam.ily of seven children nnd many grandchildren. Mr. Kennedy who was also at tonights meeting, loaned me a copy of the tenth annual report of the activities of tbs Baha'is in India, paklston and Burma that I heve been reading before turning in tonight. I was surprised end 49 distressed to learn that several of our Baba'l friends bed lost their lives In the recent troubles in Indie. AS soon as I have completed my present travels end things that I have In progress of completion, I am thinking of asking Shoghi Kffendl if it will be acceptable for me to travel In Japan, China, India and to Persia returning home over the Paoiric by way of Australia and New Zealand. Of these travels x have bean thinking for some time but I am wondering when such will be possible and advisably The Master Abd'ul Baha once spoke to George Latimer and to me about our going to China, perhaps George and I will be able to work out something together one of these days. The Master gave us no special instructions for this service. Sunday. 30 May. 1948 - Hotel des Salnta Perea, Franca. Today la tha Fate .e Dieu and special oelebrntlons are on In all the ehurehes. After breakfast I walked over to the church of St. Severin. There In the cloletera a tempor.ary altar bedecked with flowers had been erected and from this point a procession was forming to move through the streets. About a hundred little girls in their first coaaun- lon white veils and as many boys with white ribbons on their arme, were In the prooeesion with many smaller ohlldren carry.ing flowers while some bad wreathe of flowera on their heads. All were chanting as they moved forward. It wee a pretty alght and indicative of religious ardonr. From there I walked on and into Notre Dame. The ceth- 50 edrel was crowded. High Mass had Just eaded and the great organ wae peeling forth as if to harst at its pipes. I walked ahoot through the aiales and ambulatory and thought of the many scenes and historic functions thst hed taken place there, the most important of whloh was the visit of the Master Abdul Baha to that ohuroh. lu the nearby small ohurch of St. Julienne Le Pauvre, now oooupied by Break Catholics, preparations were on for a service. I looked into the interior but for a moment end went on to the ehuroh of St. Etienne Du Ifcnt where there were the usual worshippers at the Shrine of 3t. Genevieve. Then I went into the Pafctheoa as heathen a place of worship (such as its name implies) were it a place of worships It Is dedicated to the national Heroee of France, but one of whom gave me a thought upon which to occupy my mind - namely St. Genevieve the Patron Salnte of Parisi pulvis de Cheveanee painting of her looking out over Parie in the moonlight ia pregnant with ideas for Bahais to work upon. May Bolles (Maxwell) was the first Bahai to arise saong the French people to prodala the Baha'i Faith. Now for many years the ceuse here in Peris is reaohiag but a very few of the French people. It waits some one to arise and give the Faith of this day to the people of Paris aa St. Genevieve gave the message of Christ to the Parisians cen.turies ago i Passing on through the Luxembourg Gardens I stopped to 51 admire the column and lte "Chapiteau dee Belsera", Yesterday I tried to find a photograph of this piece of sculpture but wes not suooeeeful. By now I was getting hungry so betook myeelf to Henrietta's restaurant in the rue Leopold Bobert, an old haunt of mine of orer fifty years that has changed but little If any in my remembrance, save that with the present 1 nflstlon everything Is about three or four times as expansive In the equivalent of dollars ss In my student days. There I bed a very good midday meal enjoying the steak that made the writer Chateaubriand famous rather than his writings! Passing through the rue du Tleux Colombler and seeing that in the theatre or the same name there was to be a play presented at three o'clock I took a seat to see the perform.ance of "iAiclenne et e Bouoher". It was a ourloua combin.ation that for three acts was fares greatly burlesqued in the seoond act but which in the fourth not suddenly turned into deep and heavy tragedy and then suddenly ended. All through three and up into the fourth act the linea were most witty and amusing, but like much modern art, there was little continuity and surprises aplenty. Returning to my hotel room I spent a couple of hours writing then went book to Henrietta's for supper after whloh I called on my old friend Billy Owln of San Pranoisoo et his apartment at 6 rue Gay-Lussac. Billy was out of town. Paris like other places where I have lived, Is now 52 filled with memories. At every turn here in the Latin quarter I find myself reminiscing. It Is 11 very sad too fox the Peris that 1 knew years ego no longer exists. It is 11 dead and gone and thio present Peris and the present world for that matter Is ell terrible, reminding me of e stmi-alive corpse, could one Imagine suoh an ab.normality. No, this old world holds nothing for either the present nor the future. The Baha'i Pslth Is the life and the hope of the world! The Master Abd'ul Bahs did not like Paris. He found it and its people unresponsive to the Bahai Faith. Is it surprising thet the cause stugglea in this atmosphere. But the Holy Spirit is working in France as it is in all other parts of the world and among the French people sa among all other peoples. Therefore let us hope that the Evangelistic spirit of the Baha'i Faith will aoon inspire souls to arise and take the Abba Message to the people of France. This has been my prayer made today in the several churches that 1 visited. Monday. SI Hay. 1948 - Hotel dea Saints Pares, Paris, France. This morning I went over to the Grand Palale to inter.view Mens. Madeleine one of the patrons of my old Atelier. He received me most cordially and will look at my drawings tonight at nine o'clock, the only time he bad available as he leaves Paris tomorrow for some days. Just opposite the west faeade of the Grand Palais that 83 fronta on the Avenue Dentin, at number 15 on that Avenue, la the former home of Mae. Jackson, one of the very early Perla Baha'is. She was most devoted to the Cause and from 1900 on until her health failed, her home was often opened to the Baha*la and their friends, ab I looked at the house a flood of happy memories swept through ay mind. Some day I hope to write a detailed description of those meetings but now I will record but one. It wse In the early summer of 1901. Mirze Abul Pazl with Anton Haddad and All lull Than were In Paris for some weeks on their way to America where the Master wae sending Mlrxe Abul Jaal to teach the Believers the fundamental principles of our Faith. We and a few ethers had supper with me. Jackson and after the meal sat out in the email garden or parkway between the bouae and the street, sheltered from the aide walk by a low wall surmounted by an iron grill with vines and greenery - Mirza Abul Fail teaching and on that occasion, Anton Haddad translating. Among those preeent was a Mies Matilda Smedley, an American who for some years was trying to lntoreat wealthy Americana in the estebliahment in Paris of some kind of an institution that would benefit Amerloan girls studying in Paris. I have forgotten the name of the conoern and Just what were its objeots, but Mias Matilda Smadley I remember very well. She was a character with a mission that wae her career and she was muoh before the public. That evening she was trying to interest Mme. Jackson 54 in tier prpjeot but the current or thought ran Into Baha'i ohennele and Miss Smedley didn't get very far with her mission. Brentually she left the party and we Believers were alone. It was then that Anton Hoddad boiled over, as it were, at scute slightly uncomplimentary remark that Mlaa Smedley bed made about the Master Abdu'l Beha whom she had never seen end knew very little or. I don't recall what her remark had been but X do recall Mr. Haddode towering indignation. One or the Be lievere pre cent nought to ad. monish him for his vehemenoy whereupon Mr. Hadded aaid "When I hear anyone aay suob thinga about my lord and Master my indignation rises". Anton Haddad was Trom Syria. He Mas brought up e Christian and becamo a pioneer in the early days of the Faith in Paris and in America. From the Grand Palais I walked over to the Pro-Cathedral Church or the Holy Trinity where Gertrude and I were married In the summer of 1981. The church was dosed bu the cloisters wore open and I walked to the far end where I turned around, walking the length of the arcades toward the entranoe and remembering that It was at that vary spot that I stood on the day of my wedding as i sew Gertrude enter the church, orchids In her hand, on Will Horton's aim. Aa I turned towards tha sacristry to enter the eholr to meet her et the foot of the ehancel ateps aa she oame up the aisle. 55 The rost of the morning as spoot browsing about paria finishing for lunch at Henrietto*a restaurant. Two streets up the Boulevard Reapail from Henrietto* a is the Xnpaaae Bolasenade here so many Baha'i meetings have been held. It was there In the studio of Jtarle Squires Hopper that Mirce Abdul Karim and his interpreter Misze Raffle were received by the very small group of us Believers in the spring of 1900. Subsequently In another house in the same street in the house of Mr. sad Mrs. Scott regular meetings were held over a par ld of years. I passed through the neighboring Rue Bara where the Student Pension formerly kept by one Mae. phillipe is still operating - but now under another name, it was here at a fanoy dress dance that I met Marien Jack In 1902 and first talked with her about the Cause to which she has devoted her life ever since'. Paria has many happy Baha'i memoriea for ael Returning to my hotel I rested for a time, then went out for a walk going down the Rue de Bao where at #100 the Bolles family uaad to live, it waa in that houae In the morning of Deoember 51st, IB99 that in the dining room of the top or terraoe apartment, that May Bolles told me of the Coming of Baha'o'llab and I Believed! Dinner in a restaurant on the Boulevard 3t. Germain and at nine o'elook I waa at the Avenue d'Antin aide of the Grand Palais to meet Mona. Madeleine. I showed him my 86 drawings end be made Borne suggestions that wiil require some drafting end other work on my part between now and the end of ten days or more. It Beams that Mons. Madeleine is now professor of Theorie of Architecture now at the Eoole des Beam-Arts and does not hare the time to devote to Ms former Atelier of students so in order to meet ay needs he kindly oelled up Mons. Zaveroni, the present active patron of that Atelier of students end arranged for me to do ay work in the Atelier, 18 rue Tiscontl whither I will go to meet Mona. Zevaronl tomorrow at half past five o'clock. Tuesday. 1 June. 1948 - Hotel des Saints Peres, paria, Prance Up end out this morning in fairly good season. Paris does not aris* very early so when one is in really very good season he will wot find offices and stores open. I was at the secretariat of the Scole shortly after nine o'dock to find that it did not open until ten o'clock. Therefore, a stroll of an hour or sore, then to the secre~ tariat where I paid my registration fee of 600 franos and ascertained that my drawings should be rendered at the kool# on June 11th and that I should present myself for my oral examination on June 18th. Lunch at Henrietta's and the afternoon in my room after a short call on Mr. iennedy and at half past five, I was at the Atelier Zavaronl in the rue Tiscontl - one of the very narrow streets of old Paria with side curbings 5? barely wide enough to stand upon - the entire width of the street fro house to house being about four asters. Here at number IB one enters a Terr old and dilapidated court, then through a tunnel-like entranoe Into another court on to which gives the atelier. A few students were there end others case In as X explained my presence to the group. They were all wary polite and gare me acoom. Portable seat and before long the Patron lions. Zararonl oeme in for one of his regular criticism 0f the student work. He began with my designe, I enrolling ay twelve drawings that measure about one by two meters eaebl These drawings were presented in the manner and style of the Beaux-Art* designs of half a oentury ago. Practical working drawings - yss - end understandable, but not pres.ented in the modern up to date manner of the looe. How this condition had to be negotiated and In a few minutes Hons. Zawaroni had this all settled and arrayed. I wae placed in the hands of two of tha older students. These youngsters were somewhere between twenty fire and thirty years. The plen was to present all of my drawings Just as I had made them and in addition to these to edd two more drawings to be rendered and presented ecoordlng to the most modern and up to date manner of this day. A man wsa called in from a neighboring shop that specialized In mounting drawings upon classics (wooden fremes similar to those upon whloh painter* stretch their 58 canvasses save -that in this case the classics were of ply board so they could be used as drawing boards for work on the drawings after being mounted?. Mens. Zevaronl made the same observation that Mons. Madeleine made lest night - that I was "an Brave Homme to do my diploma at my age and that there was not the slightest doubt but that the Jury would accept my thesis. Nevertheless for the welfare of the Boole and other students presenting designs for their diplomas should be "oontente" and not hare occasion to fsel that I was being made an exception of in not presenting my project scoord- lng to the modern present day style of rendering. There.fore for the sake of the welfare and the spirit of the school my designs should be supplemented by those extra drawlnga. The reasoning was all typically French and In spirit of the Boole and I appreciated it and their co.operation most heartily. The French always oonserve a balance between 'indiv.iduality" end "collectivity". They dont go to either ex.treme as we ere so wont to do in America. In my particular oase my design must be recognized for its worth irrespect.ive of whether in Its presentation it was within the pres.ent ideals of the school, but then on the other hand the student body of the school collectively must be considered. Everyone should feel hsppy shout my project - In other words I should conform to their present ideals which I b9 was most happy to do thus assuring the cooperation of the atelier as a melt, I sat by while the patron made hi* round of crit.icisms of the worlc of the various students. This lasted for 9 couple of hours or more and when I left it was with the comforting osouranoe that I was in the hands of friends - that they would see that I came through ell right - that I Wes not solving ay problem alone as an is.olated foreigner but as a comrade of the atelier of which I was in all probability the oldest living member. Two world wars and other conditions have made a great change in the student life of Paris. These Beeuz-Arta students of today seem much more serious than formerly. They aot more like men and less like kids than they did in my student days, nevertheless their spirit of comarad- erle and their thoughtfulness and kindess one for another and for me the foreigner was just the same as it was in my day fifty years ago. All of this warmed my heart very much and brought to my mind in review as it were the many education and cultural advantages that Trance had given me in the past and is till ready to give to me today. Wednesday. 2 June. 19*8 - Hotel des Saints Peres,Paris,Prance Yesterday afternoon in talking with kr. Kennedy, he mentioned that one of the Persian Bahai students in Paris was studying architecture at lh6 Boole des Beauz-Arts. Therefore yesterday afternoon when one of the oomaradea of 60 the Atelier - a Persian - was Introduced to me I aeked him If he was Seyhoun the Friend of whom Mr, rennedy had spoken. He was the sum. one. Therefore X found there a Baha'i tie that stirred me deeply. As per arrangement I was at the Atelier this morn- lag at eleven o'clock. The masaier (etudeat manager) of the atelier with several of the older comarades had already organized a general plan for the presentation of my pro.ject. They had opened an aooount In my name at a neigh.boring shop where drafting supplies were available. Tracing paper and other neoessery materials had already been pro- curred for the work end they were waiting for the paper stretched on the chassis to dry before they could bells the drafting. There was nothing for me to do so I left for the day to meet my comarades tomorrow morning at eleven oclock In order to go over with them oertain aspects and details of the problem. A* I was about to leave one of the comarades said to me "You must tu-tol he (address us as the* and thou) but we will eddreaa you es "vous" (you) whereupon I replied "I will of oouree tu-toi you but despite my age you must tu-tol me tool" In France it is oustomary for comarades and very intimate friends to use this for*. We will see how this works out. Age Is still T#n- ersted In France. I have for years so associated myself with my juniors that it seams normal with me and X don't feel this age consciousness that I am running up against 61 bere in my old atelier. It i* really somewhat of a shook to me to be thus looked upon as "an aged curiosity",. I here spent the day in browsing about Paris - looking into the chops. After my strenuous days in England and Switzerland I am suffering an attaok of what the French call "phlegms" that means laslneas in English. Tonight I am in ay room for all evening at writing. Thursday. 3 June. 1948 - Hotel des 3ainta Peres,Farls,Franoe It is oold and rainy end as I got ayaelf thoroughly soaked yesterday I remained In the hotel this morning. In the afternoon I went to the Atelier. The ooaerades were not working. All was In preparation for a reunion of the comaradea toalght to which I was saked to attend. At nine ooloek I was there with about fifty of us present. Ths occasion waa the initiation of several Nouveau* (new com.aradea) into the Atelier and the passing or several other Nouveau* into the higher class of "Anolennes"^ This custom with ell the attending racket, jokes and roughhouse hes not ohanged a bit so fsr aa I oould see from the same as It was in my day. The Nouveau* were hearded in an upstairs room end made to appear one by one in the Atelier stripped to the skin. They were then shorn of their hair - some much - some little - then thoroughly duoked with water, not in small quantities either but by buoketsful. In addition to this treatment la my day we were painted many colors and had shampoos of paste applied 62 to our heads but that fora of hating did not take plaoe tonight. Those becoming Anciennes were hated too. One com- arade when stripped had all the hair on his body shared on one side only. It was quite a job too because he was hairy. This gare him a rpyy peculiar look. It was all done in good spirit, the victims made no outcry nor objection. If they had it would only hare added to this hazing. .However when a oomarade passes through such an ordoal it is forever behind him. From then on es long as he lives his status is established. Although I have been away all these years, my status now in the Atelier la the same as it was fifty years ago. Tonight those who were admitted as Anciennes were entered by the vote of the Anciennes - a ballot was handed me and I voted with the other Anoiennes. Of course I simply voted to accept each one and all. I didn't even know their names. My voting was but a gesture. Throughout all these proceedings there were Jokes end a series of pranks constantly being performed on the side. So muoh water was in the air that some of the oomarades resorted to ralacoets. I myself was sprinkled a bit but not badly. {Text to me sat a eoaiarade muffled to his chin in a ralnooat with a water proofed hood that hung down back between his shoulders. Tery quietly and sereptitioualy two of the oomarades approached from the rear filling thla 63 hood with about two quarts of water insetted wary gently from the souths of two large bottles. When this waa accomplished the tormentors suddenly drew the hood up over hla head, bringing the water down hie back and soak.ing hi*. It was all typical French fun. Those on whoa such Jokes were played enjoyed the fun the Bem as the perpetrators and all were happy and In good spirit and whan It was over it was ores and that was all there was to It with no thought of any retaliation whatsoever. 3ome of the pranks were original and very funny and I found nyself enjoying It all. As the energy of the crowd expended Itself the comarades started depart.ing one by one then thoae regaining burst into a song that ended the evening. They aang the Atelier song, the words Of which I remembered but dimly but the air waa still famil.iar to me so I hummed It, Joining In thus with the crowd. Friday, 4 June. 1943 - Hotel dea Salntes Peres,parl8,Franoe. The Argot ar elang (French) spoken in Beaux Arta Atellera la as It were a language within a language. Korda that mean something definite in ordinary Franoh parlanee In Argot have an entirely different meaning. For instanoe "charrette" is the Frenob word for a cart or a two wheeled wagon auoh ae la used by the students to transport their drawings to the Eeole on the day and at the hour when thes* Bre due to be rendered. There la always a great rush at the laat moment to finish the drawings and as the time limit 64 approaches those nouveaux whose duty was to take the draw.ings to the Boole would urge the coaaradea to finish their work by crying out "charrette - charrette" with the result that here In the Beaux-Arts parlance the word charrette means a terrible rush of work to flniBh a problem. The word "negre" also haa its own special meaning. This word, the English of whioh is so much hated by the colored people who stand for the abolition of raoial an.tagonists, has a very fine and friendly significance in the atelier argot. It meana one who sertea a fellow oo<- arade and helps him in his charrette to finish his drawings. It ia used either ss a noun or a verb. A "negre" being used as Just explained and "to negrefier" msaniag to help another who is "on charrette". Thus the first day that I went to the atelier several comarades were appointed to assist me in my charrette of finishing my Diplome problem. They in turn each ooming to me saying "Je suis ton negre". This morning when I went to the atelier I was told that "mea negras" would be there at seven o'clock this evening. Thus having the afternoon free I decided to go to the Comadle Pranoeiee to a matinee performance of "Le Totage da Hons, Perriohon" a most amusing oomedy done in s burlesqued way that I remember having seen there a number of years ago. It wee preoeeded by a one act comedy "La Pair Che* Sol" equally amusing but not prassnted in the exagerated and burlesqued manner of the play that succeed.ed It. The Comadie Francoise looks Tery worn and shabby but the building retains its dignity as of old. I reoall eo well the burning of this theatre during my atudent days. I passed tha theatre that afternoon on the top of a horse drawn omnibus and saw firemen on ladders saving what they could hand down the ladders of furnishings, bric-a-brac end precious literary documents that the building housed. At seven oclock I was at the atelier. I remained for an hour.but was "see negrea" did not appear. This did not disquiet me however for I know the ways of the atelier, we will arrive "ea charrette" as always. My Persian Baha'i come rode Houchangue Seyhoun, was very busy with his diplome problem and had three or four comaradee "negrefieing" for him. Be is making a aeries of beautiful end Tery modern renderings of his Tomb for D'Avioenne, a Persian philosopher and physician who lived about 1000 years ago, that is to be built in Hamaodan. Saturday. 5 June. 1948 - Hotel des Salats Peres,Paris,Prance. This morning I went to the Hotel Continental and by a house telephone talked with Mary Sprague and Edna True who arrived in Paris yeaterday. A special meeting has been arranged for them to take place at Laura Barneys on next Monday night so X arranged to take them thither. 06 About Peris on an errand or two - then to the Atelier. Still "mas negres" do not turn up. This Is all In true Eoole style notwithstanding this delay in the heat ana rush of the oharrette all will be accomplished. X strolled over toward the Invalides and Into the churches of St. FranoolB zavier and Sainte ciotildo. Those modern French churches beautiful as they are for the most part leave one cold so far as their architecture ie oon- cenered as compared with those built in Medieval tinea. To me however, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart on Mont Metre is an exception to this. I find that building im.pressive in Its spirit as well as in the mere mechanics of its construction end architecture. It is built In the original French Romanesque way both in Its design end con.struction, and is a center for fervent devotion end prayer which combined with the architecture of the ahrlne 18 most Impressive. This afternoon I wrote aome lettere, went to Henri.ett.' a for dinner and at eight thirty waa at Lours semey's apartment in Passy for the regular Baha'i Feast, we were in ell thirteen present - all of the Paris community save a lady from Canada and myself. Mile. Lucienne Migette, Secretary of the Assembly reed e report she had made of the recent conference in Geneva. This paper showed aptitude, devotion end muoh labor in its .composition. I suggested to her that a carbon copy in my 67 estimation would be welcomed by toe National AtcOItos Committee In Americe for their records. We had a eery happy meeting. There I met another Beaux-Arta student In architecture, a young girl now at the Ecole. I was told she was an Armenian. Her parents were there also. My atelier eomarade, Houghengue Seyhoun was not there. He la In quite a oharrette on his elaborate projeot de deplome and could not leave the stellar. Els several "Regres" are working for him. At the close of the meeting and after refreshments I wslked home with kiss Sanderson who lives not far from there. I returned here to the quarter in company with Ali Mohammed, son of Teliollah Targhe of Teharen. During the meeting the thought came to me that I could return to England late in August to sell from South.ampton on September 2nd, thus sllowiag ms to meet for a few days with the British Bahe'ls at their summer school that convenes on August 28th. This Is s thought that I will work upon. Mias Owen Ceyley, a lady from Canada, produced a papar that I was asked to reed before the friends - a report on the activities in teaching in the various Canadian Bahel Centers. It was interesting and inspiring. For some time Ive wanted to make s round of the Bahe'l oenters In Canada sod my thought for some months has been to do this next sumserl 68 Sunday. 6 June. 1948 - Hotel dea Saintes Perea, Paris.Franoi mowing the ways of the French studenta I was not alarmed this morning when I went to the atelier to find no one there end the door locked, it looked as if there was no prospect of help from "Mes Regres", I spent the afternoon in my room writing. At six o'clook I went again the atelier to find my ensemble plan nicely poehed, so things are advanoing toward my charrette,. There wa3 nothing fox me to do at the Atelier so I crossed the Seine and walked up the rue Richlieu to the Opera Comique and seeing that the "Tales of Hoffmann" was to he performed there this evening I got a seat. Then went to a nearby restaurant, recommended, by the middleman from whom I procured my ticket, to pat in the time at dinner waiting for the opera to begin. It was a very beautiful perfornuwou. The loading womens* voices were to mo unpleasant in that they sounded strained and worn but the leading mens' voioes were very good. The cos.tuming, soenery end aoting were eioellant. Monday. 7 June. 1948 - Hotel dee Saints Peres, Paris,France To the atelier this morning but nothing doing. The mossier was not there, so after lunch I went there again to find that the mesBler would be there after four o'clook. When I finally returned I found things humming. My _ fourteen big obasala were being transported by several 66 Nouveeux from the shop where the drawings had been mounted. I took a hand and carried one myself. The charretto was on and the fevor of work In the air so from now on until the Rendu on Friday June 11th, the activity will be whooped up and I will arrive all right. Tonight there wea a meeting at Laura Barneys apart.ment of the Believers and some interested people to meet Bdna True and Mary Sprague. I was to have taken Edna end Mary to the meeting but they found it neceasary to make other arrangements. We were in all twenty-two people. Edna end Mery both gave talks, about the recant conference in-Geneva and I was asked to say something. I spoke very briefly saying that I wanted to mention something that both Edna and Mary did not mention, namely the very efficient way in which the work of the European Teaching Campaign had been carried out and the careful and minute detailed work of the committee that had made the convention meetings run along ao smoothly not to mention the 1 abor of the oomalttee in pleoiag the ninety two Baha'is arriving la deniva from eighteen countries in hotals and attending to their many oreature wants. Everything ran along with the utmost msootbness and this could not hare bean had not aueh care been taken in all the planning. Tuesday. 8 June. 194S - Hotel dee Saints Perea,Paris,France I made an early start across town this morning going to Brentanos In quest of a map of Haifa and the vioinity 70 needed to use as an adjunot to ay temple drawings to show approximately the location of the site of the Temple on Mount Carmel. Brentano had no guide hooka with auch a document. Then it occured to me that poss.ibly Mias Sanderson might have an old Badaeker with suoh a map. On telephoning I found she had this book bo I went to her apartment for it. By that time the morning wao spent so I went to the Continental Hotel for Edna True and Mary Sprague. They have a chartered motor and chauffeur for their stay in Europe and they drove me over to Henrietto'a where we lunched. On the way over 1 told them something about the restaurant that had been founded by old line. Poolain who died in 1901. It was said among the studenta of thoae days that Mae. Poulaln had led a brigade in the paria Commune of 1870. Whether that waa true or not I never knew but my impressions of her were that ahe waa quite capable of having done so. Then I explained about the freaooea in the reataur- ant Illustrative of "The Queen of Hearts" who made the tarts. These murals were done in the very late 1890's by two American girla - Miss Alice Uumford of Philadelphia (whose family I knew in my Cornell days) and Mias Ploranoe Lundborg of San Francisco. Although fifty years have darkened these paintings and they show other weer and tear but notwithstanding this they still hold up. 71 After lunch we walked through the Luxembourg Gardens where Edna's motor met us at the Rue Sufflot entranoe to the Gardens. We then drove about the Pantheon - entered St. Etienne du iiont and visited the Shrine or St. Genevieve then passed the Sorbonn. - the Cluny and the Ecole des Beaux Arts where I left them to go to the atelier. They sail Tor home tomorrow. Stopping at the atelier to oonfer with the Kassier, I took Miss Sanderson's map of itount Carmel to a photographer to be enlarged to add to my pro- Jeot drawings and then to my hotel room for the rest of the afternoon. After dinner this evening I called on my old friend Billy Gwin and we had a pleasant talk of old times end old friends. Later walking down to a cafe in the rue Sufflot where we had cooling drinka. While seated there along came a lady who addressed Billy and me by our names. At first I did not reoognlze her. It waa Herosde? de Seesy whom I had not seen for many years. Her father was Gabriel de S assy whom I met here in Paris in 1900, one of the early Baha'is of Cairo (a Syrian by birth). After his deeth his widow brought their children back to her former homo where they have lived since. She was not a Baha'i and unfortunately the children were not brought up in the Baha'i Faith. Wednesday. 9 June. 1946 - Hotel des Saints Perea,peris,France Sinoe my "Negree" do not turn up at the atelier X am 72 o bit concerned about their work. So this learning I went to the Atelier bent on having a serious talk with the Mas3ier about my project - but the Messier was not there. Word was that he would be at his drafting table 8fter four o'clock. After dimur I went to my room and slept for a couple of hours reaching the atelier at some time after four o'clock. There I found the Messier with my three nHegres" all of whom with an eooord assured me that there was not the slightest doubt but thet they would arrive on time with my work for the rendering of the same at the Eoole at noon day after tomorrow, adding that they were prepared to pass the night working. With this assurance I left the atelier and went over on to the other side of the river in the opera section of the city. Then back to my room for writing until eight o'clock when I went out to dinner. At nine o'clock 1 went to the atelier to find the plaee almost deserted - so I walked over the Pont du carrousel end sat myself down at the base of the Gembetta Monument to enjoy the suneet and think about Paris and many of the historie eTenta that had transpired on the ground that I waa looking over the Tiew extending toward the place de la Concorde and on up the Champ Elyaee to the Are de I'Stolle in the distance. As night fell I turned toward the left bank and now shortly after ten o'clock am back in my room for the night. The Gambetta monument like many others in Paria ia now stripped of Its bronze statues and otter bronze adornments - one of the many tributes demanded by the Qod of War who has reigned end atlll reigns despotloelly in the world. When, oh when are the Nations going to glTe up and forsake their National Gods and eceept the one God and protect His humanity from the burdena of Nationalism under whloh tbe peoples of the world are now suffering? .hursday. 10 June. 1946 - Hotel des Saints Perea,Paris,Francs This morning I started out on various errands In the Quarter and over to the opera where I secured tiokets for next Saturday and konday nights. Then to the atelier. None of my "Negres" were there. Nothing had baen done on any of tbe drawings for several days. After lunch I went over to the piaoe da la Concorde where near the Statue of Lille there is a trap In the aide- walk that leads down by a staircase Into one of the sewers of the city. This afternoon from two to four o'clock the sewers were open to the public In conducted groups of 80 Frenos admission. I stood In line and 48 of us were admitted. Going down far below the street level we found our- selvee In the vault of the sewer. It was very damp and had a strange smell but not so disagreeable as I had Imag.ined It would be. Then we divided into two groups of 24 eaoh - each group filling a boat that was manned by 74 several men end shortly the boats moved off slowly Into the ami obsourity of the sewer. There was quite a flow of water conduotsd la from the Seine and electric lights made things vleable although the lights were spaced far apart. As we continued on we passed taller aewera that dis.charged Into the large one in which our boat floated. .ach feeder sewer was marked by a sign giving the name of the street overhead so one knew where he was in relation to the city above. In the celling of the vault ran tele.phone and electric cables end lower down water pipes carry.ing potable water to aoaewhers. These were marked "Source" while the pipes supplying the water to flush the sewers were marked "Riviere". It wea a strange world and the men who worked down there clad in high rubber boots and oil skin clothes had a curious look and an unhealthy smell. I shrank from touching anything and eouldn't help but think how terrible it would be if the boat were to careen and someone fall into the stuff on which ws wars floating! The guide who explained things as we proceeded aeld that there were SO kilometers of neioable sewers under .erls - almost la miles. Eventually we came to e halt end a stair case brought us up into the light and pure air of the city. I walked along the boulevard and to the Hotel Drouot, 75 the great auction piece of Peris. Going in and through the exhibit hells I sew a finely out erbie urn that conies up for sele tomorrow. Returning to the Quarter I went to the photographer for the enlargement of the map of mount Camel that I had ordered two days ago. In the atelier thinga were still at e standstill so far as ay work wes conoeraed. Ho "Megrea" about so I went to my hotel room nearby and wrote until helf past eight o'clock, then went out to dinner. Return.ing to the steller et helf pest nine I was confronted by the same Stand-still so I sat down on e comfortable uphol.stered seat and before I knew it, was sound asleep despite the noise of about twenty fire cornered*s working in the piece. It wea ebout eleven o'clock when I was aroused by a great shout end singing es ay five "negree" entered the atsller marching in single file Binging about the room and coming up to where I sat halting and giving me a military ealute. I springing to my feet end in turn saluting them. With one aooord end in chorus they assured me that they would not sleep nor eet until the work was done. The Rendu e tomorrow at noon. They had been dining together and having coffee afterwards - thus the delay in beginning. I stayed for a while going over several etters with them. Then returned to the hotel hut sometime during the night I'll get up end go over to the atelier just to make sure t.t all is going well. 76 Friday. 15 Jane. 1943 - Hotel des 3ainta Peres, Paris .France. Shortly before two o'clock this morning I went over to the Atelier. All was in full swing. Everyone hard at work. There are but three of us rendering diplomas but there were between 45 and 50 drawings In all. There were about 40 com- arades all hard at work. Several were drafting all at the same time on one of my drawings, one of whom was a girl who has been "negrefylng" of late for one of the oomarades. Thanking l^er for her servioea i told her it was the first time that I had ever had "une negress" work for me. It was well that I made thia nocturnal visit because of a mistake that I detected one of the negrea had made in laying out the plumbing system in the toilets on the lower floor of my Temple. Corrections were possible so two com- sredas applied themselves with erasers. I returned to my room at thraeco'olock with the intention of taking two hours rest returning at dawn to the atelier, but I waa tired and didn't awake until after eight o'clock. Hurrying I was at tha atelier before half peat nine. The fever of the eharrette was going high - everyone in good spirits and but with an exception or two the crowd didn't look nor eot et all "ell night". The Persian Baha'i Seyhoun waa one of the few exceptions. He looked very tired. His projeot "Ie Mausolea d'Avloenne a Hctabanne" was elaborately rendered. He had bean working on it for three months and he looked to be about used up. Peroox, the Moslem comerede 77 Enegrefylng" for him looked fresh end o hipper. Some of the comerades evidently had been discussing the Baha'i Keith because two of them said to me "why don't you try to convert Seyhoun" from which 1 understood that they did not know Seyhoun wee a Baha'i. I aalllngly geve Seyhoun s knowing look, replying to the Krenohmen that 1 wea aura that Seyhoun dldn* t need me to convert him - leaving the matter thus. Ae.yet I've not had an opportunity to have a talk with Seyhoun apert from the other comaredes. .erooz has ques.tioned me as to my frlende and my going to Teheran. He may be a source of trouble although apparently he la friend.ly. However, I am sure that Seyhoun has a good reason for not being known among the students ea e Baha'i so I have said nothing laat I maka trouble for him, for as yet relig.ious persecution Is still on In Paris - for even while hers in Prance with Persian Baha'is one must think end oonsider the Krlenda in Persie as well. As noon, the tour of the rendering drew near, the nouveaux carried out my ohaaala Into the oourtyerd of the atelier where they were loaded Into a oharrette, a two wheeled band cart to be taken to the nearby Boole. But we found that a truck heavily laden with merchandise had broken down dlreotly In front of the door opening Into the street, and on aooount of the extreme narrowness of the atreet, the cherrette could not be wheeled out! I doesn't require much out of the ordinary to attract a crowd in the teeming streets of Paris. Already a crowd had gathered in the narrow street. I wondered from whence they all came so suddenly? Seeing our dilemma with an accord a dozen or more men put their shoulders to the truok, wheeling it clear of the doorway, adding a cheer in chorus as my drawings were wheeled out and up the street. only e few rode down the Rue Bonaparte-we entered the courtyard of the Eoole where the charrette was unloaded and the chassis carried through the Pompeiian Court end into the Sells Melpomene where the exposition end Judgement will take piece. There I registered to find that J had been re.corded #19 in order of reoeption with Seyhoun #20. His drawings are presented and rendArsd so much better then mine that mine will suffer through such near contrast comparison. Returning to the atelier the other eight or mj chassis were soon sent to the Eoole to be plaoed with the alj already there. With the rendu completed there was a general spirit of relaxation in the air. The oomarades were singing and shortly we all marched up the rue Bonaparte in a body to the Cafe of the Two Magots in the square of 3t. Germain de pres for drinks and relaxing conversation. We were about fifty in number, the group haring been reinforced ainca daybreak by those coming to lend e hand at the eleventh hour. I wanted to treat the crowd. At this there was some objection made by the oomarades because of their number. Some thought that 1 70 should "payer a bolre" for my "nagres" only and that the others should pay for themselves. Then I put la the plea that in that very oafs of the Two Magots" fifty year ago I had treated the coaaradea of the atelier on the ocoaaion of my admission to the Ecole - that that had been a great pleasure at that time ead that now after all these years they should allow me that pleasure again - and so they did. I feel a great debt of gratitude to France for all she has given me. The Eoole des Beaux-Arts is maintained by the Frenoh Government - a free institution of learning, admission to whiob is by competitive examinations. m America we would oall this a-^system of free competitive echolorships. When I was received at the Eeole in 1889, 435 of us presented ourselves. I was #27 out of the high.est 40 coming through the aeries of examinations who were admitted. ljy attendance at the Soole covered four years at the expiration of whieh time instead of doing my diplome (or thesis as we oall it in Americe) I wanted to go home, thinking that I would do my dlaplone at some future time but never dreaming that I would put it off for all theee many years. The other day on passing the Hotel Drouot, a very beautifully sculptured urn in marble attracted my atten.tion, so this efternoon I went over to the auction end after sitting perched upon some wooden boxes for over an hour end half, from which position I commanded a good view of the auction block looking over the heads of the 80 crowds, the urn was knocked down to me for 6500 franca between 21 end 22 dollars in our money. I think this place of marble must weigh four or five hundred pounds. I will have it shipped home to be pieced in the family mausoleum. I am tired so hsd en early dinner and am now going to bed shortly after eight o'clock. Saturday^12 June. 1948 - Hotel das Saints Pares,Paris,France Up et four o'clock this morning writing letters. After breakfast about the Quarter on a few errands then out to 3t. Ouen where just beyond the Barrlere is held on Sat* urdaye, Sundays and hand ays, a fair where one finds all manner of antiques ana junk. I have been looking for Paul Du Bola "Meditation* and "Faith" in bronze. I wes fortunate in finding the former at a most reasonable price - 8,000 francs. The other day when I went to the Berbedienne foundary show rooms the price there was 100,000 francs for exactly the seme bronze, both being east in the same studio. There were ecres and acres of small stands, shacks and other shelters all filled with a great mass of all kinds of things. 1 was so engaged in looking about that I forgot all about lunch time, finally lunohing on some cakes and ices In a small shop. The fair ia known aa "the flee market". Hetuxnlng to my hotel room for a somewhat hurried rest of an hour, 1 haa an early dinner end took myself to the opera to heer the new English opera "Peter Grimes" that has 81 bean much talked about lately In the musical clrclea, It first production bavins teen at Covent Garden in London. Although beautifully done - that 1 finely presented - there wae nothing at all beautiful about the production. It wae too modern to ault me nor ay taste. There was no mueio at all ~ merely orchestrated noise. There was no story - merely a series of Incidents of cruel life a8 it Is - to my mind no ideal at all. It started In, rambled along end left off without beginning, middle nor ending - all quite In oharacter with the extreme modern art of tod^, but the orchestration end aotlng were superb. So often In the old fashioned operas the chorus only comes Into action occasionally and between the performance of the prinolpels while the principal hold the stage the oborus would for the time assume the role of audience to rally Into action again when their turn came to sing. But not so now-a-daya. How aa with the ancient Greek theatre the chorus la In constant action, and thie was most beaut-, lfully carried out in tonight's production. Tbare waa an orchestration of acting and movement of principale and chorus that waa finer than word description could pioture, and this I enjoyed very much. With the passing of the grand life of former days the opere la no longer s brilliant affair. But very few ware In evening dreaa and there were no women regally attired such aa one formerly saw at the opera. The riohness of the interior of the building with ite marble columns, mosaaios, paintings and sculptures seamed strangely out of key with the assembled audiences. It has been 17 years einoe 1 was in the Paris Opera. At that time end tor some time before the Grand Foyer and adjoining chambers looked Tery dingy and faded, but now those decorations hare been redone (of course in the same style) and the entire architectural effeot is greatly enhanced and more beauti.ful then formerly, aa I remembered it. Sunday. 13 June. 1948 - Hotel deB Salnta Peres,peris,France. Today has baan one of rest for me. I intended going down to Chartres for the day, so ordered breekfast sent up to my room at 6:30 but when I awakened at that hour it was raining so I decided to remain in my room and write letters. I am quite behind in correspondence. Thus the entire day has been epent save for half an hour after Deljuner when I walked about and sat in the Luxembourg Gardens. By then it was a fine day and the garden ae usual was playground for many children at their amusements. I was tempted to go into a small marionette theatre in the garden, but I was sleepy and tired so returned to the hotel. Monday. 14 June. 1948 - Hotel das Saints pares,Paris,Franoe This morning I went to the Boole to eaoertain when we aspirants for diplomea ahould present ourselves before the Jury of professors of the Soole to defend our projeets. 83 I was told to come at half paat one o'clock today. This gave me time this morning to go out to the flea market beyond the Barrier on the way to St. Ouen to con.clude ay purchases of Saturday. I also went to the cem.etery of St. ouen where ay eld and deer friend, Jane. d'Aatre la buried. I found the cemetery but wae not able to locate her tomb. The man in the Bureau de controls could not help me. She was laid in Billy Owin'a sepulcher with epitaph In her own name aa Billy explained to me the other dey, but this information did not help me in locating the plot. Some other day I hope to find thie spot. I wlwaya like to visit the grave of a friend at least once to make my prayer there. Returning to Paris, I was at the Boole shortly after one-thirty - my project waa j|H9 ao I knew I would not be oelled on until sometime later. Seven professors sat In am oheirs with about a hundred students scattered about the great hall, the Salle Melpomene where the sohool ex.hibitions ere held. Hot all these students were presenting diplome projects. For the moat part these other students had Just come in to witness the fun, but it oould hardly be called fun for the aspirants'. AH oral examinations of the Boole are open affairs ao there is always a good sited audience. As each participant's turn came, men would bring in hla drawings mounted on chassis and place them along the well before tha Jury. Then the interrogation would begin - different professors questioning tbs aspirant on various aspects of his problem. The architectural composition, the construction from foundation to roof, the lighting system, the water supply, the drainage and Its disposi.tion! the lighting and the hasting systems, all of which construction and other systems were Indicated on the drswlngs. Since the Holy Land is a warm country, I prov.ided no heating system in my Temple other than a few electric heBtera in the offices of the Guardian of ths building and in the toilets. I sat there until almost five o'clock awaiting my turn, nervous as a eat for despite my years, my youthful dread of examinations all oame back to ae. Mils. Tournoa wee in the room and we conversed a bit In undertones ae I did with several of the atelier oomarades. The pTofesaors were all very friendly, far more so than they were formerly. There was even a spirit of eom- araaerie between professors and students thet didn't exist in the same way in my day here. This was Indeed all to the good and I found myself very much et ease to the point of laughing and ioklng with these gentlemen when my turn Because of the dimensions and the number - 15 in ell - my drawings made a sizable showing, but ay draftmeashlp end Indication was old style of fifty years ego oompared with the present modern methods of presentation now in 06 vogue at the Ecole. However the Jury seemed to be con.sidering whet my temple would look like when completed end how it would construct rather than the pictures before them. Then the matter of the Baha'i .Faith came up for dis.cussion end the latter part of ay hearing was turned toward explaining certain aspects thereof. This was started by one of the Jury asking why there was no altar, pulpit, stalla, organ nor confessicnals indicated on my drawings, thus giving me the opportunity I sought for as mueh Baha'i ex. plenation as possible. Finally it was over and each of the Jury shook hands with me as I becked awey Trom them to find myself surround.ed by the atelier oomsrades with outstretched hands and con.gratulations. 1 found that X bed done muoh better than X had eter hoped for. My mark in the architecture of my problem was 16 on the scale of 20 - a bore pess being 7. This acale of markings waa the same es formerly in the years whan I was here. I felt tired, when all this was over so went to ay room for e rest before dinner, after which I betook myself to the opera to hear "Alda" This music I enjoyed far more than that of Peter Grimes that I heard the other night. The staging of Alda was fine from the aoenlo view, as waa the orchestration but X find in all of these operas that X am hearing of late, that the voices of the women - seem very strained. They don't seem to have the reserve that I 86 recall the opera singers bad some years ego. In the chorus one does not fee 1 this strain but In the arses it la Tery apparent. I am beginning to think that muxt be characteristic of this modern day and age when singers are forced in competition with others obout him to exert tbemaelvea to the Tory utmost all the time too, tbua re- dudlng voice reserve to a minimum, the thinness of which one feee. ab I recall with Kamea, lielba, Kordioe, Sohumenn Helak, Sombrlc and others of the aingers of ay earlier years I used to have the aasuranoe that they were not straining and that there was yet a volume of voioe In reserve upon whioh they were not drawing. Tuesday. 15 June. 1948 - Hotel des Saints Peres, Paris,Franoe To the atelier this morning and about town on errands. And after lunch over to the American Express Company and about tho city on other errands making some purchases and to the atelier where the petron Mona, lavaroni was correct.ing and orlticialng student work. I am enjoying a relax.ation and let down from the strenuous eharrette and the hearing of yesterday, ao am turning In early tonight. Wednesday. 16 June. 1948 - Hotel des Sainta Peres,peris.Franoe At ten o'clock this morning I wes at the leole to see the Exposition of Diplome drawings. It was a large and interesting exhibit and as I looked at my drawings I thought 87 of an aspiration I bad bad es a Tury young Baha'i Believer in the Cauae and of Ita realization today, for when I first heard that provision waa made in the Baha'i Saored writings that Temples of Worship eventually he ereotod by the followers of the New Faith, my first thought was that when I did ay diplome at the Ecole I would choose aa my project a Baha'i Templet There in the exposition I chanced to meet Alice end Julian Levi from New York and was able to thank Julian again for the kindness ha did me some months ago by writ.ing to lions. Tournon, Director of the Eeole and obtaining information for me regarding the requirements for the rendering of the diplome project whloh I followed with the present happy results. Then I went over to the American Express Company and about on errands and after lunch still feeling the let down from my charrette I slept for e oouple of hours. This evening I called on lr. Kennedy and we enjoyed over an hour of pleaeaat Baha'i talk. Thursday. 17 June. 1948 - Jiotel dee Saints Peres,paria, kranoe To the American Embassy this morning to find that my permission to enter Germany and Austria, that I arranged at the Legation in Bern to have sent to Paris, had not oome and that they knew nothing of It. I will have to take the matter up myself with Bern. About town as usual, and this afternoon 1 west to the 88 stellar to square off my Indebtedness there. There ere eertein fees with the rendering of a project. I had been told that for one o "ancien" as ayeelf there would be no fee so I made a gift to the atelier fund of 15,000 franca. Tonight I turned ia early, Friday. 19 June. 1948 - Hotel de Seinta Pare*,Parle, France I don't seem to have accomplished much today. This morning I went over to the express office, then to the opera where I spent some time in a Queue for a seat for to.night. This afternoon I wrote some letters and 3lept. I find the air of Paris relaxing. one can sleep more here than in most place*'. Then at five o'clock I went across town. Old some sightseeing. Had dinner in an English restaurant and then went to the opera to hear the "lieistereinger". The curtain went up promptly at 7:45 and the lest act finished at 12;SO. Beautifully presented with fine mens roices in the principal parts. The womens roices did not measure up to the volume of the mens. This I have found to be generally the oase these days here in Paris. My ticket called for a "Fauteuil- de-Belcon" but I found myself on a "Strapontin" a folding seat in the aisle - not a comfortable contraption for a long opera. The "heieterainger* ia too long. In this French production they bring in a great deal of action in the chorus evidently trying to revive the tedium f the audience but even then it seams interminable in parta. I 09 well recall the firat time that this opera was produced in Paris- It was during my student days. I did not hear it at that season hut I recall one Frenchmen's crit.icism when he remarked that the performers "stood about the stage looking into the whites of one anothers eyes waiting thua until the theme developed", Saturday. 19 June. 1948 - Hotel des 3aints Pores,Peri3,Franoe This morning I spent at the flea market where I secured a pair of marble vases on floor pedistals thet 1 will use at Fohick end also an Empire Chandelier to com.plete ay ensemble of furniture of that style. I took it easy this afternoon. Walked along the Quai on this aide of the river between the Pont de la Concord and the Pont Solferino where X looked up at the apartment occupied by the Bolles family, the balconies of which look over the river end the Tuillerie gardens. It was there that I sow May Bollea for the first time in 189S, little dreaming how our liveB would eventually come together in the Faith of Beha'ollaht Tonight was the grand "Trlcentenaire" of the Icoie des Beour-Arts. The students in the ateliers had been working on the programme of the evening for some time and they put on a very fine pagent- In my student flays here tails and dinner Jackets were practically unknown among the French Beauz-Arts students, but not so now. "Tenue De Soiree De Rigeur" was printed on the cheek of admission 90 and was carried out. I arrived at the entrance on the Quel alaqualB at tan o'clock and the crowd was assembling. The entrance lobby was hung with red velvet trimmed with gold gallons and fringes with an orchestra playing. The Guard Republieaine was out in all the glory of their uni.form with a line of soldiers at attention lining either side of the red carpeted stairs leading up to the Salle Melpomene where the Biplane drawings had been exhibited earlier, in the week - now transformed Into a ball room decorated with palms and blooming plants. The floor, once a fine example of Perketry, now worn by the many student exposition held there - was heavily treated with talcum flakes for dancing. 1 find that with the passage of years, French dancing has changed from the old fashioned whirling about with no reversing of my days In Paris, to the vary lataat American collegiate dancing of today. Thera la auoh more movement in a French crowd than with us Americans. The people at an entertainment of this kind seem to be running around in all directions colliding and bumping Into one another in an undignified way - at least we would consider it so at home If not over here. The crowd waa so great in the Salle Melpomene that I passed on into the various oourt yards or the Kcole which was lighted, decorated and arranged with seats along the encircling arcades and passages. Then I went on into the big eourt where in front and faolng the Museum of Sculpture a stage had been arranged for the pageant programme of the evening. There was music wired to points of dis.tribution from the orchestra playing In the Salle Melpomene. But In the big Interior oourt of the museum there was another orchestra playing. The tiled flooring waa smooth and good for dancing and there were a number of oouples dancing and In a leas aitreme fashion than In the other ball room. Here I sat down to wateh the dancers. The hard times that have come upon Franoe with these world warn la quite noticeable In the clothing worn. Most of the dresses worn by the women were evidently home made and were great In variety. Tarlety was also noticeable In the suita worn by the men. There was not that effect of uniformity In mens' evening apparel that we in America ere ecenstomed to. But this is the result of the after effects of war. The Frenoh are atruggllng along very bravely and making the very beat of things and having as much pleasure oat of life as their conditions will allow. I notloe also that these hard conditions and suffer lngs have made the people here much more thoughtful of one another than formerly. As a matter of course - not one of mere politeness - In the Metro (underground line) oars older people and woman ara given seats more than formerly. I sat here in the liuseum for some time looking at the dancing and thinking of all that Franoe had undergone when 92 I noticed a general movement of peoplo toward tise outer court eo I Joined the crowd to flna sysalf in a very good position to view the pageant as I stood Just out.side the Bsln entrance to the building. The programme was a unique burlesque on the founding of the Ecole three centuries ago under Louis HT with Cardinal Masarin as the real Instigator of this foundation. A Spanish Galllon armed with soldiers and sailors end pro.pelled- by oarsmen sailed onto the scene and from the deck the Xing and his oourtlers descended and mounted a plat.form where Louie sat blmself down on a throne aurrounded by the ladies and gentlemen of the court. Nazarln then laid the first stone of the Boole. Leter an oblisk was brought in on a ship from Egypt and sat up while other events of architectural note that transpired during the reign of Louis HT were presented all In burlesque and amid shouts of laughter from everyone. I had expeoted to see hundreda of people there, but there were literelly thoueends. The place wes packed. I've not aeen such a crowd since the opening of the New National Qailery in Weehlngton - the greateat crowd that Washington has produced in my day. The programme over the people did not seem at all in.clined to disperse. It was then two o'clock and I began to wonder how I would be able to get ay hat and coat out of the veatalre, so making a circuitous exit around about the 93 edge of the mass of people I found my things without having to stand la line and was soon hack at my hotel. flunday. 20 Jane. 1948 - Hotel dea Sainte Perea,Paris.Franoe I was tired this morning so wrote letters in my room until one o*clock. Lunch at Haarletters after which I strolled down to Kotre Dame going into the Cathedral and making a tour about the aisles. Then over to St. Severin in the student quarter. is I walked about through the ambulatory I paused to read some of the many smell marble tablets, the offerings of students testifying to their thankfulness on the successful passing of examinations. Here I felt a particular neorneas to this large group of sufferers for what suffering is there that is comparable to that of the poor student going up for examination? The poorer the student Is in sobolorship the more bewildering is his fright and the keener his distress. I have suffered these French examinations and I know the suffering they osuse and I know how real and fervent can be the prayers of the student. On this last examination that I took at the Boole I resorted to prayer for some time before presenting myself for the ordeal, and now that it is all over and I have passed, I am like these students who have placed these tablets In St. Severin - truly thankful that It Is all successfully over and past. How at my age it e doubtful that I will aver have another examination to pasa In this 94 life and. this fact In Itself Is another blessing for which I am truly and slnoerely thankful. Tonight I went to the opera to see enacted and to hear Berlioa "Damnation of Faust". This I have heard before In concert but not in opera. The staging was Tery fine indeed and the ohorus both In singing and act.ing megnifloant. The male Tolces fine but tbe one woman's voice (Marguerite) was Inadequate - Just as I havB found the other womens Toioes that I have heard here in opera these past few weeks. Monday. SI June. 1948 - Hotel dea Saints peree,Paris,France To the Express Company, then to the flea market to conclude my purchases there. This afternoon out on other errands and after dinner the evening at my desk In ay hotel room. Tuesday. 22 June. 1946 - Hotel des Saints Perea,perIs,France Another busy day. To the Italian Consulate for a visa, but I found the mob of about a hundred Italians In a queue so rather than subject myself to this I gave it up for the moment. Then e number of errands about town. This afternoon I went to tbe Express Company to engege a place on next Saturday's train for Aix-dea-Bains whither I em going to interview Billy Owins ear specialist to 9ee if he oan help a deafness that seems to be overtaking me. soother they can procure a reservation or not I will ascertain tomorrow. The day train goes but once weekly end on Saturdays. 95 Finding myself in the Tiolnity of the Hotel Dmout I went into the exposition rooms Just to see if there was anything there of interest to me. I found there was an object of xery greet interest to me - the figure of "Faith" by Paul Dbols that X hare been searching Paris for for these pest weeks without results. it comes up for sale tomorrow afternoon end I will go there and buy it. At tee time I was at Kiss Sdith Sanderson's apartment. Mrs. We,lr of California was there end we three Baha'is had a very happy and pleasent time together talking of the Ceu3e. tonight I am spending in my room at my deek. Wednesday. 25 June. 1948 - Hotel des Saints perea.Paris.France To the American Embassy this morning to find that they know nothing about my permits to enter Germany end Austria that were to have been sent them from Bern four weeks ego. I wrote out the date for the gentleman in charge of the military permits. He will oall up Bern end report to me et my hotel. This afternoon I went to the Hotel Drouot. Auctions were on in several chambers. The DuBoia figure of "Faith" that I saw there yesterday was knocked down to me for 4500 francs, a greet bargain compared with Barbedlennes price for the same, 84,000 francs. My copy wes of course orig.inally from the Barbedenne studios. Late this afternoon I went to the Atelier to say goodbye to the oomarades. Seyhouxn, the Persian Baha'i 96 was there and he and the Sous Messier Bernard Fouquet had dinner with me and oame here to my room afterwards where we bad a talk about the world and the Baha'i Faith. Fouquet comes from Normandie where he will go shortly to spend the summer with his family. He gave me a pressing invitation to vleit him on my way to Bngland in August. Thursday. 24 June. 1946 - Hotel des Saints,Feres, Paris, France. 1 was up'-at six o'clock thie morning and at the Italian Consulate et half past seven for my visa, thinking at that early hour I would avoid the crowd. I found myself #34 In line and before the doors opened at eight o'clock there ware twice as many behind me as before me. There In a line four abreast we stood end Btood all pressing to.gether In a compact mass aa the Itellans are wont to do. There was sapie space on e broad walk and wide parking but no - they all preferred to mass together as tightly aa possible. It is the spirit of the Ohetto which extends Into the street. It was eleven o'clock before I got my vise. After making out three questlonaaire giving photographs and other formalities. Such are the indignities hesped upon us poor humans In these days of national supremacies and competition between these supremacies, all of which oause humen dignity such suffering \ And I was told et the United States Babassy that there was other way for 97 tourist In Paris to obtain an Italian visa other than to obtain It la this manner'. Last night I found a message at the hotel telephone from the Embassy that my permit were at the military permit offloe in the Hue Greuze, bo thither I hastened this morning from the Italian Consulate. But there no one seemed to know anything about the permits. I went to eeverel office rooms but no reoord of ay papers, until I found a woman clerk who appeared to be a person of authority. I explained my"ease. She said "what is your name?" I gave her the information whereupon she found the pepera. There was a twenty minutes wait ahead of me with others also waiting. The woman clerk turned to a young man apparently waiting like myself and said to him "Set up and give this gentleman your eest". The youngster Jumped to standing but as there were women standing waiting very near, I hesitated to take the vacant chair until the woman clerk turned to me snd said "Sit down", with the result that I sat. I had found efficiency here at last although my papers hsd been there In the office for Bbout four weeks, apparently overlooked and forgotten. My permits were given me for Germany and Austria and a special authorization to pass through the Russian Zone, together with a message from Captain Beauchamp of the Legation in Bern telling me on my arrival in Tlenne that I should contact with the U. S Army Chaplain - the why 98 of this was not explained *. I went to ay lunch feel.ing hungry but relaxed in spirit now after over e year of waiting these permits were finally in ay hands. A busy afternoon going to the packers and to the American Express company, attending to the shipment home of ay purchases of the past days in Paris. I bad upper this evening and a pleasant visit with Laura Dreyfua- Bamey. Later the nineteen Day Feast meeting of the Baha'is wee held. Sixteen of us attended et her home. Some of us were visiting from afar - a Mrs. Flowers from Bouurmouth, England. Several Persians who arrived recent.ly from Teheran, Mias Caley from Toronto, Canada and Mrs. Weir from Los Angeloe. Friday. 5 June. 1948 - Hotel des Saints Peres, Paris,France This morning I went about the Quarter, finishing some shopping and errands. Then to call on Mona Tournon, the Director of the Ecole Beaux-Arta to wish him goodbye and to thank him for his courtesy in helping me get started on my diploma. At noon I was at the Hotel Normandie over near the Palais Royal to meet Mrs. Weir by an arrangement we made last night. We went to Henriette'a up in the Mont Pernasae Quarter where we had a very good lunch and a talk about Baha'i matters, after which I took her over as far as the Place de la Conoored on her way to an engagement in that Quarter. 99 I have finally found the one large and four ass 11 chandeliers for Pfchick Church Ive been scouring Europe for for these past two summers. These I discovered In a small shop just a few doors from ay hotel in the same street. They are brass pleoes end probably considerably over 150 years old. One of the difficulties has been to find four old ones all eliice. These particular brasses ceae from an old church in this country. They are heavy pieces but not clussy in design. The small ones, having .lx arms each with a candle holder - the large one with twelve art8 two tiers In height. They are vary fine pieces. The five costing 95,000 francs or about $369.SO. AS 1 am talcing an early train In the morning for All- les-ualna at an hour when a taxi may be difficult to find, I aiu taking my heavy bags over to the Gare da Iyoa tonight. With these off ay mind Ill sleep well. Saturday. 6 June. 1948 - Hotel Das ilea Briteanlqua, Aix-lea-Bklns, .rance. p early this morning and to the Gare de Iyon by Metro (underground) with a briefcase end a small overnight bog. I found myself In a compartment with two elderly renoh ladle*. The run here to Alx was without incident, but I found to ay dismay thet 1 had been misinformed at the Ex.press Company about a diner. There I was told that there was a restaurant car on thla train but there was none. Being a special weekly train it made but few stops and at 100 none of these stops was there anything to eat. fortun.ately I had a few chooolates and some crackers in my bag, so 1 made out. Billy Gwin met me here at the station in Alx and now I am comfortably settled in this hotel in the next room to Billy. It is good to see him again and under these rest.ful conditions here where there is no hurry nor rushing about. Tonight we went to a movie. Sunday. June E7. 194B - Hotel des ilee Brltannlque - Alx- lee-Bains, France. Breakfast in bed this morning and at ten o'clock Billy and 1 went for a walk to the Uarlioz where he had a treat.ment at the Spring, while I est in the park. After lunch a nap and In the latter part of the afternoon we walked down to the lake - about two miles - where we had tee wetoh* ing the bathers. We talked ebout our student deys together In France and of our dear friend, Use. d'Ange .Astra whoa Billy met through me and eventually married. Three cornered friendships are rare but all the more precious when they exist. Ours covered almost forty-five years until toe. .Astre's death - now almost two years ago. Billy seems lost without her, but he is making hie adjustment. I first knew toe d*Astre in Washington in 1903 where we were both engrossed in the work of the Baha'i Cause. Later she made the pilgrimage to the master Abd'ul Baha wr.ile he was still an official prisoner in Acca. In those -,t iaw **1 In 39aeIon - jane vs - 91*' In the Baha1 Conference at Geneva - 19*S The Sen-jve 9e! 1 Conference - 19^2 In the Geneva Baha'i Conference - I9W Above - Building where the Public Meeting of the Baha'i Conference waa held in Bern, Switzerland Below - Building housing the Baha'i International offices in Geneva, Switzerland - 19*8 Mrs. Mottahadeh and C.M.R. with Jack Shurcllff and hla little daughter in the rear - Geneva, Switzerland - 1948 With ft groups o.P.relan Baha' 1 Students - Gene, Switzerland Oroupe ot friend t an on the lie Jean Jaca-jea ftauEeeeu at - Zt.'"ZZ>y /// . Z')// //(//..J/ >N PUBUOUE Kcole National: Svprieure des Beaix-arts 153V. 1932 ^ I Z../. //.,/. Z.,/,,,..,/, -ty,, JL - '/l.,./ X . //. ./ ./. /- ~-u+ys Oj- Co f.-., ---,.Oo -"'fie* , ..- - .//.V. .. 4u-j. .*<4. --------------- Le ip Juin 1948. 13 Quai Malaquais a l'Ecole des Beaux-Arts FTE DE NUIT DU TRICENTENAIRE ?.vs,bvw.\8s;s7.v ytWv: &hi % A MOWS' RELMEY /JJ C.ONSEIL Conjtrts mondial SPIRITl El. S\7? MONDIAL Carfe de congressisfe ('tovmutlL h-/.Mue-^ i Fr- '<.? .'sr' ORGANISATION BaWi (nh+M+ij .... - inAttd nmvtMtxm fit Mi fiwtlili 8H BAH Al - AJSEXP 101 days she was most activa ia the Cause but when she came to Paris, as 1 recall in about 1905, conditions there mad it difficult for her with her temperment to find an outlet in direct Baha'i service for her energies, so she studied nursing after having obtained the Master's sanction. Sha knew as we all knew some years before world War I that this conflict would come sooner or later end ume. .Astre wanted to meke herself ready to take a hand in succoring humanity when the great struggle came. I was in Peris in the summer of 190? when jane, .Astre unfolded to mar her plans. She was then arranging to enter a hospital for a course in nursing. Again in 1908 and 1910 I was in Paris and saw her and sha told me of her progress in nursing. Then again in 1914 George Latimer and X' were in Paris for about three months in the Spring and early Sumer of that year. We saw teas. dAstre almost daily. By then she had graduated in nursing and told ua that when the war came she expected to be commissioned as a "Major" of a nursing unit. Subsequent events abroad showed that her preparations and aspirations were all to a good purpose. She accomplished a service to the suffering, the wounded and the sick thet wea far in excess of any of her expectations. Tonight Billy and I went to a light operette et the Casino in a theatre somewhat smaller than the typioal Paris theatre but equally well appointed. Summer sojourners are coming to Alx-Jas-Balns. The Casino was comfortably filled. lo. Monday. 8 June. 1843 - Hotel des Ilea Britannique, Alx- les-Belns, France. At eight o'clock this morning Billy and I wore at Professor Sourdille's office, Billy for a treatment, I for an examination. The doctor finds that be can do something to improve my hearing and he wrote out a schedule of inballationa and nasal and throat steam and sulphur water treatment for me and thla afternoon 1 went to the establishment in the perk and took my first treatment. Billy is undergoing the same so we were together. It was not ao very disagreeable. later in the afternoon we took a walk together of several miles and tonight went to a movie. It has been some time since I've been in a plaoa where there is little or nothing to do but loef about so now I'll busy myself with letter writing. The food here in the hotel is very good indeed but small in quantity but sufficient - like a doctor's prsacription dealt out to ua with a mathematical exactitude aa for quantity. Tuesday. .9 June. 1948 - Hotel des Ilea Brittannlque Aix-les-Balna, France. This morning with Billy for out treatment at the arllox Spring with the afternoon in my room writing. Then later, Juat before dinner to professor Sourdines for a treatment of medication of sjy throat, and in the evening to a Johnny Weismuller film showing life in the .wild - fighting wild animals. All very exoiting and to Wednesday. 30 June. 19*8 - Hotel des Ilea Brltennique, Aix-leS-Baino, France. Dp early this morning and to the doctors for ay first message treatment. Billy hed forewarned me as to the severity of this so in ay Imagination I was prepared for an ordeal in which I was happily disappointed, for while It wee a most unp.le asant proceedura it waa not very pain.ful. I,t consisted briefly In the doctor getting his hand down Into my throat end fingers up Into my nasal passage behind my palate and massaging about ay eusteclan tubes. It is somewhat of a mystery to me how he accomp.lished this. His hands were not large, neither were they small. Even after a few minutes of this manipulation aomething seemed to break down and loosen up In ay head and behind ay ears on the inside. There was a clearing up aa It ware and my hearing Beamed to be more keen. The remainder of the day waa spent the same as all days here. In the afternoon a walk to the Morlloz Spring establishment for a treatment, then a stroll through the town end baok to the hotel - dinner and to bad. Thursday. 1 July. 1946 - Hotel des lies Brltennique - Alx- les-Belns, France. Today hes been like the other deys here. Friday. 2 July. 1946 - Hotel des lies Britinnlque - Alx- les-Bains, France. 104 Today started out differently from any day yet bere. At half pest eight o'clock I was at professor Sourdelle's office. These massages that he has been giving me have until now been but Introductory of prep.aration for the real message of my eusteclons up into my Inner ears. This he started la on this morning by insert.ing a dilator through my nose, and into the euetacions up almost to my ear drums, then twisting it about and wiggling it with ian undulating movement, and working with his fingers at the same time in back of my palate, thus mass.aging for whet seemed to be a long time, the entire approach to the inner ear. Doing this first on one side then on the other. it was painful but endurable. The doctor told me to take things easily the rest of the day. I felt tired afterwards so read until lunch, stretched out on a chaise lounge in my room. Billy tells me that he fainted sway during his first treatment of this kind but the subsequent ones were not so difficult. After lunch Billy walked the mile with me to MBrllo* for my steam and other treatment. He has completed his oure and leaves tomorrow for Paris so I've been making the most of his company for I'll miss him when he leaves. We have many friends and interests In common. Billy is not a registered Baha'i but from our talks I wonder why he Is not for practically all of his ideals (and he is very decidedly an idealist) seem to be along the Baha'i line 105 of thought. Saturday. 5 July. 1948 - Hotel des Ilea Brltaanlque - Alx-les-Bains, Prance. Billy left at noon today for Paris. This afternoon I took my walk of about a mile from the hotel to the park of the Marlioz Springs where I take my inhiletlon end gargarization, then book to town for tea (which for me is an ioe with Pattisery) served in the open in en attractive park. And so the time passes. Sunday. 4 July. 1948 - Hotel des Ilea Britannique - Aix- les-Bains, Prance. Breakfast In my room and the dally treatment eonsumed the morning. At three o'clock I was at the port and on board of a small side wheeler exccuraion steamer to make the tour of the lake to stop for an hour at Hautecombe, giving time there to visit the Abbey of the same name. The boat was packed with men, women and ohlldren. The day being fine a crowd was out. As ia my custom under euoh circumstances I cest about to see what safety devices there were in oase of accident. There were no-life belts nor other preservers save one doughnut shaped life buoy that was conspicuously displayed on the pilot's bridge. X decided not to moke the excursion so left the steamer short.ly before she pushed off. I walked along the lake whore to the bathing beaoh where I sat for a while then returned to the hotel to my reading and writing. 106 Monday. 5 July. 1946 - Hotel dee lies Britaanique - Aix- les-Bains, Preace. At half past eight o'dook I was at Profeaeor Sourdine's for another of hie eustecian massage treatment. These are strenuous and leave me somewhat tired. I re.turned to the hotel for breakfast in ay room where I stretched out for an hour and read. To (the Merlioz Spring this afternoon end on the return to town to aee Dr. Bleno, recommended to me by Profeaeor Sourdille to treat the muscles of the back of my neck that have been a bit congested ever einee my cbarrette of drafting shortly before leaving home, due I think to the sustained strain on those muscles as I leaned over my drafting hoard - that was a large one and consequently a somewhat more strenuous exercise than I was accustomed to. Dr. Blanc put me through an examination and prescribed mud treatments. I have been reading in a magazine entitled "48" an Account of tbe career of Heji Amin B Husseinl Grand Mufti of Jerusalwi" whom the writer of this artiole oalls "Jer.usalem's Hitler", the man behind Jerusalem's Terror. This account is written from the Jewish point of view hut viewing this man and his works of a politieel nature from any point of view a Baha'i appreciates Shoghi Effendi's problem and distress when his own sister married the 107 nephew o. the Grand Kuftl. To bed tonight at nine o'clock. Tuesday. 6 July. 1948 - Hotel dea Ilea Brltannique - Aix- lee-Bains, .ranoe. At half past nine this warning 1 was at the large new bath establishment In the center of the city to meet Dr. Blano where be worked out a treatment for me with the dir.ector of one of the baths. This consisted of a hot mud pack applied to my neck, shoulders end spina and with this application I was p ut to bed end covered up for ebout twenty minutes then douched hy the attendant with very hot water Indeed up and down my beck. The water having some special medicinal qualities. I understand these waters lose their potency if kept. They should he taken end used as they come from the Spring - slnoe their curative qual.ities are due to radio aotivity In their make up. From this treatment I walked to the Marlloa establishment for my regular dally regime arriving back at the hotel In time for lunch. It has reined all day so I gave up a trip to Hautecombe that I bad planned for the afternoon. Wednesday. 7 July. 1045 - Hotel des lies Brltannique - Alx- lea-Bains, France. To the Baths again this morning for a hot mud pack. Dr. Blenc met me there and I reported thet I felt better after the first treatment of yesterday. Today I had 108 another similar peek. This took practically all morn.ing for when I wes through with the treatment it wee too late to go to iderlloz. So this afternoon I took the Usrlloz waters and the Pulverization and the Oargerization. Thus this day passed, 1 turning in shortly after nine o'clock. Thursday. 8 July. 1940 - Hotel des lies Brltannique - Aix- lea-Bains, Prano e. At half pest eight this morning I was at profesaor Sourdine's office where I waited an hour for ay Lustacian massage treatment. Ieoh time this is a bit less sensitive than before but as he goes at the operation with an increas.ing vigor each time and for a little longer period, so the distress ie about the same. On leaving the office I came back to my room where breakfast was served me. Then off to Marlloz. ley mud peck wes this sfternoon, so thus the day has passed. How for these next three ensuing days I am going to try to get all the treatments in in the morning so as to have the afternoons frae to make some motor excursions into the country eround about here where there ere inter.esting things and plaoes. Prl.day. 9 July. 1948 - Hotel des lies Brltannique - Alx- les-Baine, Prance. Breakfast at seven o'clock this morning and a brisk walk to the Marlioz Springs, then beok to town for a hot 109 mud pack and douche at the baths. This building or rather series of buildings is on the site of the old Roman Baths. After my treatment there today 1 went through these ancient ruins now conserved there 83 a sort of museum. I reoail something of these ruins when I was here in 1927. They were then open to the sky but now are enclosed in this modern building. This afternoon I took the steamer over to the Abbey of Hautecombe still with a congregation of Fathers and Brothers of the Benedictine order. The chapel is the point of chief interest there which the general wlew of the ex.terior of the buildings with terraces and towers rising beside the lake against a background of wooded mountains, is most picturesque. The architecture of the chapel most elaborately done in a late and decadent Gothlo style is impressive because of its richness and detail despite the faot that it ia in vary poor teste. For centuries this church, was the burial place of the Princes of Savoie. These tombs for the most part were destroyed during the French Revolution but have since been restored. After dinner this evening I went to the city park for a while where there was a band concert in progress. Then to bed early. Today ismy brother John's birthday. Saturday. 10 July. 1948 - Hotel des ilea Brltannique - Aix- les-Bains, France. 110 Up early this morning and to iiarlioz as usual and later for a mud treatment. At two o' clock I boarded an excursion motor with a party of eight people to make the tour of the Lake of Anneey. Tbs way took us through beautiful Talley scenery of Sexole and the Haute-Savole Talleys flanked by high towering and rocky mountains, it was a beeutlful day and the country picturesque haying more the character of Switzerland than France - particu.larly the houses reminded ma of those of the upper Talley of the Rhone where considerable Italian influence is in eyideace in the houses. At one place the Pont de L'Abiae the route crossed e Tery deep gorge in mountains, spanned by a suspension bridge of an old design with four slender built up ell masonry towers. Here our car stopped. We all got out and walked across the bridge to get into the cer after it hed crossed. I dont know whether or not this was meant as a safety precaution but it was indeed a wise move since our car was heayy and the bridge erldently of none too much strength. From here our route took us up through high mountains over a ool and down to the Lake of Annecy beautifully sit.uated in a velley surrounded by mountain peaks, chateaux and beautiful homes arose on all sides about the lake, this being one of the meat popular summer end yecentlon grounds of France. Here we tourists had half an hours halt for Ill tea at an attractive restaurant at the lake 3ide. The drive then continued on around the lake to the old and very picturesque town of Anneoy where we had an hour and more to see the oburcheB and wander about the narrow streets of this medieval city with its canala and msny bridges. Leaving there at six oclock were back in Aix-les-Belne for dinner. Tired, I turned in by nine o'clock. Sunday. 11 July. 1946 - Hotel dea lies Brltennlque - Aix- lea-Baina, France. To Marliox as usual this morning - then to see prof.essor Sourdille for an examination tast or ay hearing - all of which he plotted in curves on transparent paper which he then superimposed over the chart he had drawn re.cording tha result of my first examination, thus revealing the improvement that 1 had already noticed in the acuteness of my hearing. Furthermore with another treatment tomorrow ha assured me that this improvement would continue to Im.prove for a couple of montha. This procedure took ao much time that I was unable to get In the mud treatment, which on Sunday must be started before half past eleven in the morning. At half past one odock I was off with a party of tourists for the Grande Chartreuse Monastery. There were fourteen of us in a large touring oar with a roll beck top affording an unob.structed viewing of the mountain soenery. 118 Chamber? wa3 our first stop, allowing ua to see the old chateau built in Gothic times with the main street of the city said its arcaded buildings and public squares and parks now containing but the stone and marble pedestals and bases of monuments that formerly supported statues and tablets in brona# which metal parts were olelmed by the war. This condition I noted also in Peris and last year in many of tha other war cities. Proa, Chamber? the route 'to the Grand Chartreuse wended up through a broad and beautiful Talley toward the cliff wall of a mountain that separated it from a Talley on the other side, the road Tery tortuous going through a tunnel of some length without lining nor supports, cut out from the bara rock. Crossing this second Talley and following a stream the roadway winded its way up into them ountains through another tortuous and narrow gorge In placea so narrow that the roadway was cut Into the rock on one side while on the other was corbeled out over the chasm in the depths of which rushed a torrent of water ooming down from the high glaoier hung peeks abore. It was in a high Talley in the heart of this mountain Tastness that Saint Bruno in the eleTenth century estab.lished the chartreuse order in this monastery thet at one time wielded a great politloal power with ite chain of monasteries that extended into other countries throughout IIS Europe until these were closed down on the continent through various national pressures and now none remain. 1 recall vividly when tlie Fathers end Brothers were expelled from la Srand. Chartreuse, then the head monas.tery of the Order. This was In my laet student year in Parle when they migrated to England taking with them many of their valuable possessions including a stock of old "Chartreuse" of their own make. For the transport of this liquor a number of wooden casks were especially constructed - all of which procedure caused considerable notice in the newspapers in the early 1900's. The way to the monastery led up through one gorge after another through tunnels cut in the living rock and over stone arched bridges spanning chasms - all dramatio and picturesque. After mounting for some time the Chartreuse Distillery wee reached. Here in a series of stone buildings the chartreuse liquors were distilled from herbes that grow in these high mountains. Then the route continued on to a very steep ascent - too eteep for an automobile to make, so by s circuitous route with an easier ascent the car finally arrived et the foot of a short hill that wa mounted on foot up to the entrance of the monastery. Many buildings surrounded by a high stone wall com.prise this monastery. For some reason the place was ollaed to visitors - even a chapel without the monastery wall wes securely locked up. But an adjoining bill, crownd by a calvery, efforded a good view of the roof* of the buildings, so thither most of oux party climbed. Had I not already seen these Interiors on a former visit here in the summer of 19E7, X would have been keenly disappointed at not being able to enter the monastery to.day, but as it was I contented myself with this outside view of the house roofs picturing in my mind the Interiors, the arrangement of which were still fairly distinot in my memory. The chapel, the refractory and other communal houses, then the series of small houses where the cloistered Fathers lived - each one alone In his own little house with Its workshop, sleeping quarters, snail chapel or oratory and a small high walled in garden. Meals were served the Fether, In this solitary retreat, through a turn style so arranged that he could not see the hand that served him. Here be spent years of his life in solitary prayer, his only relaxation being to ply some craft and oultlvate his small garden. On leaving the monastery the automobile made the very steep descent and returned to Chambery bv another route than the one by which we came, this time going through the small town of St. Peirre de Chartreuae, then up and over a col where we tourists had tee In an attractive mountain chalet. Then on farther and over another high col (pass) wfiere another stop was made and finally back to Aix-les- 115 Belns In time for 0 late dinner - In ell a very pleasant afternoon. Monday. 12 July. 1948 - Hotel des llee Brlteanlque - Aix- les-Belns, Franoe. An early start this morning and at Professor Sourdllle's before seven o'clock. While I am accustoming myself to the treatments, these operations In themselves ere Increasingly severe both in Intensity and duration. In faot, , each is a minor operation dilating, undllstlng and deep massaging to break up lesslons that have atrophied the muscles and tissues of the passage into the Inner ear. Even with the anesthetic (cocaine) that is given eeoh time, it is painful and thare Is some blood, but it is all nothing to really draad - simply gainful end disagreeable Tot the moment without any distressing after effects. m fact the relief after it ia all over is to be looked forward to. Returning to my rot for breakfast and the treatment at Marlloz with an errand or two in town kept my buey until eleven o'clock when X entrained for Geneva arriving there at two o'clock having had to wait an hour at the junction Culoz where I lunobed from a box put up at ay hotel, Finding myself almost out of money this trip was necessary that tty Graeffe could help me out by endorsing a obeck. I found Ktty end Amlynch at the Baha'i Bureau and we bad a pleasant meeting and talk. It was good indeed 116 to be beck again among Baha'i Friends end hear the latest news of the cause. Later Frau Dleselhorst of Berlin, now living in Geneva, Joined us and these ladiee went to tea with me at the restaurant near the Cathedral where 1 went several times during the days of the conference In Usy. In France there is everything to eat end drink except milk. So today in Geneva I enjoyed the milk. In 1911 my mtther gave me a watch that I have carried for thane past 37 years during which it has been repaired in America for minor injuries. Lest summer in Zermatt a repairer of watohes told me that it had been damaged by our American workmen. Now wes my opportunity to have the watch put into good order so 1 took it to Tacberon and Constantin, lta makers here in Genera. It is promised for August 15th. In the meanwhile I am oarrying a time piece loaned me by the company. A train leaving Geneva st 8:30 landed me in Aix shortly before 11 o'clock. It was a train "Direct". It never occured to me to reserve e seat so I found myself standing all the way in the corridor. Happily there I fell into conversation with a very pleasant and interesting American citizen who spoke with a foreign aocent, Ivo tL, Dussi of New York. He had travelled a great deal in many foreign lands, was a mountain climber and knew a good deel about astronomy. we had a particularly interesting conversation. Tuesday. 13 July. 1948 - Hotel des Ilea Britennique - Aix- les-Baina, France. 117 Op before el* o'clock this morning end I wee et the touring automobile station in town before seven o'clook for an excursion to Chaaonix - e treat that I've been looking forward to for these past few days. It rained as the group of ua tourists started, but the sky gradually cleared up as our route took us on to Chembery and from taare to Megeve a resort town in a high valley where winter sports ere widely advertised. From there 1 sout post cards to ay sister Mary and her son George who spent the Christmas holiday season there in 1938. Then on to the resort town of Chamonix arriving there et eleven o'clock. It was e clear atmosphere by then and the summit of Mont-Blanc shown brilliantly egsinst the blue sky. Sevbrel of our party took the cog wheel railroad up to Montenvers for a view of the Mer-de-Glece and the high mountains of the Mont-Blsnc Range. This excursion oonsumed at leest three hours of the four hours stay in Chaaonix, end as I bed other more important thinge to be done, I deelded not to make this excursion. In 1895 with my parents and brothers end sisters i was here in Chamonix. In those dayB it was e simple mountain village without even a railroad nor any funiculaire up the mountain. We came by rail from Geneve to Cluses, about half tbe distance here. The rest of the way we made by carriage. On leaving Chaaonix to go to Msrtlgny in the Rhone valley we drove all day over the Tte noir 118 route end the col de Ie Forolaz. Row en electric mountain railway follows that route while the town of Chamonix is reached by railroad, from the oluses. on this vlait we went up taontenvers on mule heck. There guides took us aorosa the glacier Mer-de-Glace and we climbed down over the Keuvels Pea on the other aide of the glecler to a point where we met our mules that took ua beck to town. Today I was flirting with liont-Blane as it were. I wanted to 'find out all I could about the mountain and tBlk with o guide or two in order to learn about the ways up the mountain. I therefore went to the Bureau of Guides where I received considerable information. It la all very in.triguing and I would like to make the esoent. This I find can be made by any of half a dozen or more routes from either the French or the Italian aides. I have been studying the guide books and so far ea the knowledge that I've been able to gether the route from tbe French side by way of the Tete Rouaee, the Aguille de Gouter and the refuge cabin Talllot seems to me to be the most ad.visable way to make the aaoent, were I to attempt it. My ohief problem would ba to overcome the altitude and this I think 1 could do acclimatizing myself to the thin air by spending a night at the Challet Tetes Rouaee and one night eeeh at the other two refuge cabins - thus taking it eesily. But so far this is but a dream. However some such dreams are realized*. So I browsed about the town. Talked 119 with several mountain climbers and learned that the mountain Is aoaled by an average of about a hundred climbers a year. The chief difficulty being the problem of breathing. Wont-Blanc Is about a thousand feet higher than the Matter- hdrn. I located the Hotel Pension Couttet (so longer a pension) where we as a family stayed In 1B95. It was then kept by the daughter of the famous guide Couttet. Near by In one of -the public squares of town stands the statues In bronze of de Sassure and Couttet looking up at Mont-Blanc. They were among the first to reach the summit over 150 years ego. I recalled this group of two figures. It was pieced there some years before 1B95. Just as a greeting by gather Sego of Augusta, Georgia, I sent her a post card picture of this group. She Is a de 3as3ure descendant, direct or collateral, I know no which, of this great mountain olimber. The return trip to Aix-los-Bains was made by a dif.ferent route In from Megeve that took us by the lake of Annecy through a valley discontinuing from e ool in the velley was a hill surmounted by a very picturesque medieval castle overlooking the lake that I had seen the other day et some distance from ths lske shore. Bight o'clock found me at my hotel for dinner after which I went over to see Professor Sourdllle end to settle my account with him end bid him goodbye. He was very reasoneble in Ms charge for my treatment. 120 Aedneaday. 14 July. 1948 - Hotel des Saints Peres,Peris,Franco liost of the morning was consumed In packing and making reody to eaye for Paris taking a noon train that brought me Into the Gara de Lyon at about nine o'olook. The Journey was made without special Incident and I now find myself comfortably settled for a short stay here until I can get off for Germany. Thursday, is July. 1948 - Hotel des SalntB Peres .Paris,Frence A particularly busy dey. To the post office to send letters home - to the peckers who will ship my flea market end other purchases to Washington - to the military "emit denertaent of the American Embassy to hare them eorreet the number as glren on the penult of my passport, (This passport is so loaded with stamps and visas that they didn't make out Its number correctly) Then to the Amer.ican Express Company on finenoial business and to make a reservation for tomorrow's day train to Frankfort. After lunch, e nap - then shopping for food for my Journey. One cen't depend on getting food en route in travelling these days. Then other shopping and running around until dinner. As my train leaves very early end taxis are not easy to get in the early morning I took my two heavy bags over to the Gare de I'Est this evening so in the morning I will be able to move qulokly with but the small hand baggage. 121 I called up Billy Owl a this afternoon. He, not knowing Just when I was to be here, was ell booked up for this evening. I hope to see him on ay return here In about a month from now. Tired end to bed at eleven o clock. Friday. 16 July. 1946 - 41 Waldermann Str., Frankfort, Germany. An early start to make a 7t CO train from the Gare d'L'Eat for a through train without changes that brought me here to Frankfort at 11:15 PM The train was crowded when I boarded it at 7; 00 o'dock but I had. no difficulty In claiming my reserved seat. There is more law and order now on the railroads than I found laat year in France. The day passed without special incident. I was well provided with lunch as the train neared the frontier the ruins of buildings along the way became more apparent and on enter.ing Germany there were more ruins than I had seen on the French side of the frontier. In fact practically all the railroad stations were roofless as well as many surrounding bouses. The railways were the special targets of the war. As I had remarked before in this Journal, the temper of the European people I have found changed In some respects from times before World Wars. Today we were eight people In a comfortable second cless compartment. These people were not at all unpleasant toward one another but one sat there all day without a word of conversation. No one spoke bo another save for the usual "pardon" when one passed In 122 front of others in entering or leaving the compartment. There ere no time tehles nor railroad maps evell- nble so I was at a loss to know through which cities my route would take me efter the frontier was crossed. I saw from a station sign that the train was stopping in Ludwigshefen, opening up Bahe'l memories when in 1920 I visited Baha'i Frienda and with Alma rnobloch held meet.ings there. Then an hour or so later I saw in the near distance'a great church with a western tower and e greet oentral tower silhouetted against the skyline. This I recognized as being the Cathedral of Mainz. This church made a great Impression upon me when I was here in Mainz with my parents la 1895. with them and my brothers and sisters we hed oome up the Rhine by a day steamer past Ceblenz and the picturesque castles thet crown the hills bordering the river. The German people seemed ohanged too. That arrogance that was so characteristic of ell officials both military end civio in former times seems to have disappeared. The people appear tired and listless in comparison with their former attack on life in general. At the station I was met by my old friend Edith Horn together with Herr end Frau Berge, members of the Bahe'l eona unity of Frankfort. It was warming to my heart to have a most cordial reception by these Friends. They ex.plained to me thst there was a room awaiting me in the apartment of Harr and Frau Lindner, Baha'is, In the same house where Edith lived with her daughter end her family, or If I preferred I could go to a hotel reserved for Americans both those of the occupation as well as those here on business. Of course I wanted to be with the Baha'is but I felt that I would be a burden to them because of the food problem. They have so little food thet I didn't want to take any of It, whereas if had I gone Ameri.an I would have come In for food shipped from nonie. This I explained to Edith who at once assured me that she was receiving food from Americe and was in planty so that I would not be depriving anyone in Genaany by accepting her Baha'i hospitality, so here I am now comfort.ably established for a day or two at 41 Welderuann Stresse. Seturdey. 17 July. 1948 - Waidermenn Stresse 41, Frankfort Germany A very comfortable night's rest in one of those soft German beds with e huge feather bed on top of me es a cover. It is cold bere in Germany and this bedding added to my comfort. AS arranged at nine o'clock I went down to the lower floor to Edith's apartment where I had morning coffee with her after which we pent the entire morning in conversation, We bed not met for E6 years, so had much to talk about. It was in the summer of 1019 that I waa in Atlantic City.with ay mother for several weeks that I arranged for acme Baha'i 124 meetings that were advertised by placards la some or the Hotels. To one of these gatherings came Edith Hora. She heard the Baha'i .Message. She believed and since then has given her life to the Baha'1 Faith having nade the pilgrimage to the Holy Land three times in these pest 29 years. Shoghl Effendi told hex to teach the cause here in Frankfort. This she has done through much inconvenience and privation during these years of war when aha could have left these war torn parts and have found better living conditions elsewhere. But she ohoae to carry on the Bahai work In Frankfort wad with good results, of late Hornette and Chester Davison and their son Bruce from Miami, Florida, have spent some time in Frankfort with the result that there are now over fifty confirmed B41evers here with a number of others deeply Interested. After returning to Germany some years ago Edith adopted a little girl and brought her up educating her as she would have done for a child of her own. This daughter and her husband and two sons now live here with Edith. The daughter is a beautiful women. The eon-in-law a fine looking man and the boys of about nine and eleven years are nice appear.ing with pleasant miles and good manners. After lunch, which X had with Edith In her own little living room, I went to my room for an hour's writing. Then joined Edith and we went to the Baba'1 Center where we were 1S5 met by Herr Berge. Tills building whloh the Baha'is now own was much wrecked. The basement of the house was being put into something like order but above this floor all was e ruin that had been temporarily roofed over at the second floor level while above thia towered two stories of wells more or less damaged by bombs and open to the sky. A walled gerden in the rear of the house that before the bombings had been planted with fruit trees and laid off in walks and flower beds now was piled high in pieces with rubbish and rubble. Against ell tneaa odds our Baha'i Friends were working and putting the place into something temporarily habitable as fast as they could obtain the necessary building materials. From the Baha'i Center we went over to the home of Herr and Frau Berga where we had tea. This house had elao been damaged by bombings but not anything like the destruction meny of the surrounding houses. We were in the fine residence dlstriot of Frankfort. Large and paL. stiel houses several stories in height end placed In at.tractive grounds with imposing gatewaye and grills of forged iron separating them from broad avenues were for the most part complete wrecks, I thought Z bad seen wreckage laat summer in Holland, Belgium, Luxembourgm Frenoe end Italy but In none of those countries nor In the British isles heve I seen destruction on such a vest scale ae here in Frankfort. 126 On leaving the Berge homo we went to call on Herr and Frau Deurbacb. She a Ballerer In the Bahai Faith and he very friendly Inollnod toward The Cause. with the exception of some schlooaee and palaces that I have visited their home had been the finest private house that I haa ever been in In Germany. X write "had been" for now It was but a shamble of what It bad been before the war. Mr.' Deurbaoh is an architect and be had built bis boma after his own ideas. Large end beautiful in the Romanesque atyle it was built both within as well as with.out in llmeBtone with parts In marble beautifully sculptured. The stalrwsye, chimney pieoes and many columns were of mass.ive stone construction, each capital and pieee of ornament was a distinct piece of soulpture. The main door to the house was of bronxe and the entrance vestibule contained beautiful hand wrocht grills. It had been most impressive and even now in its present ruined state had lost none of Ita dignity - for ruin that it now is - none of its impress.iveness had been lost because everything about its construc.tion had been reel. Bo architectural camouflages had been resorted to to produce a mere effect. But one fraction of the original house had been made habitable for the Deuerbach family. A columned room that had been originally a palm garden bad bea enolosed and ia now their living and bedroom and the former kitchen still 127 intact is their dialog room and kltonen combined. Wa looked about through this ruin aa Herr oeuerbaeh accompanied us on a tour of inspection tbat took us up on to the second floor level fro which we could look down into what had been the large dining rooa, music room and other rooms, the while I marveled to myself how both he and his wife could be so apparently happy and oheerful smid the ruins of their home. I felt they harbored no sorrow nor resentment. Later I mentioned this to Edith and she remarked that the people here had suffered bo much that they were quite resigned and now took it all aa a matter of course. This caused me to wonder how we in Amesloa would take it if our towns with their many family homes were thus wiped out and destroyed? To the average Amerioen, thought of suoh a possibil.ity would never occur, but to me ae I view Europe of the preeent and ooapare it with the Europe j knew years ago I oan picture anything happening anywhere. Moreover Shoghi Effendi has warned the Amerioen Believers that terrible sufferings and troubles await us la the United States'. Edith and 1 returned to 41 Weidemann Stresse where we supped in her apartment and l8ter on called on Herr and Frau Lindner. Sunday. 17 July. 1948 - W a idem arm Stresse 41, Frankfort I was writing until one o'clock last night so didn't 128 gat up very early this morning. Between cofree and lunch salt a and I telleed. She has Indeed been one of the main stays of the Cause here la Germany tnrough these war years. Bren yet the Cause here In Germany is suffering the ravages of this war beoeuee all their supply of Baha*i books was confiscated and burned by the Nazi government so they are still handicapped not having literature to meet their teaching demands. This afternoon we went out of town six kilometers distant to the suburb of Affenbech to the home of sn artist (painter) end his wife where a group of eleven people awaited us. I spoke for an hour or more on the Message, Edith Interpreting for me. There was a good res.ponse. Everyone seemed happy. On the way home through the oity we stopped at the central railroad station where I bought a ticket for Heidelberg to which city I will travel tomorrow. These artifiolal money exchanges maintained by laws that change from time to time ere demoralizing to the people. At present toe legal rate of exchange is about three marks to the dollar whloh in reality is in actual value fourteen to the dollar. Taaterday I received three marks to the doller atone of the hotels to find out later that the olerk handling the matter made eleven marks on every dollar he exchanged for mo of $3.5o on the _ dollar. 129 A Baha'i should abide by the law ao I submit to this but it is exasperating to a parson when he know others about him are paying but a quarter or e fifth of what he is paying for the same thing, whatever it may be. Under thee conditions one cannot blame people for resorting to the black exchange. This low rate of the dollar with the inflation of the Oerman currency makes everything most expensive to Americans when they uea German purrency. Yesterday I obtained cigarettes, sugar, chocolate os an Amerioan through the American Post Exchange, all at e very low cost in American money. Row I can share these articles with my Genen friends who ere reeding the same. Cigarettes oost the Germans an equivalent of six marles each Cigarette, or two dollars of our own American money. Practically no one can afford to smoke cigarettes these days aeve the Americans. Little wonder that so meny of the German women are selling themselves to the American soldiere in order to get enough to maoke and to eat. I feel sorry for them. From the threatening notices about warning Americans of legal punishments for those caught selling or bartering any supplies provided by the American Government, I imagine there has been much profiteering going on by members of the Army. This evening fifteen Bahais congregated here at the house In meeting. I talked on the influence aa a creative -Toros of religion upon civilization and architecture, lead- 130 lag up to the Behei Temple. Edith interpreting for me, it went very well indeed. The Friends were most enthus.iastic. Monday. 18 July. 1948 - Elberstr-Neckergemunde, Heidelberg, Germany. At about half pest nine o*clock I left Frankfort for Heidelberg. Edith Horn and Herr Berge were et the station She former accompanying me from weidmenstrasse. I am beginning, to learn the present way of life here In Germany or rather the present two ways of life In Germany for here there ere two distlnot and different finsnciel set-ups. One Tor the German people end another for the Americans. This hes to do with finances end living, life for the Amer.icans being far more reasonable in cost then for the Germans. The other day when I thought X required German money eo ex.changed American script for Oerman money I did not under.stand this condition nor did 1 know that 1 could use German script to buy railroad transportation. For when I paid for ay ticket from Frankfort to Heidelberg paying it in German money it cost me about 1 marks or an equivalent of about seven dollars of our money, whereas if I had paid for it in our money it would have been about 3 cents (I travelled third desa). Wellt I will try to manage my expenses better from now on. Heidelberg is ons of the most romantic end beautiful places In Germany. The old town built in the velley along 131 the Nocker end dominated by the Castle, pertly In ruin above the valley Is moat picturesque. I was first in Heidelberg in 1B95 with ay parents end brothers and sisters - then later X made several visits here Some In connection with the Baha'i Faith. On arrival I left ay luggage in the station and walked about the old town and along the banks of the Reoksr pest the Town Hall where in 1980 a meeting was hald by several of us Bahb'ia coming from Stuttgart, my talk being Inter.preted by Frau Alice Schwarz, who also spoke along with several others. The meeting had been well announced and was well attended. This was the first Baha'i attempt to teach in Heidelberg. How there is an assembly here end a community of about fifty Beha'la. Hungry, I went to the Hotel Europe that I was told was reserved for American Army offices, but where civil.ians (Americans) could obtain meals. There 1 hsd a very good square meal at a very reasonable rate in American script. Z then set out to find Dr. Hermann Grcssmann whom I remembered so well as a young student in Leipsic in 1980 when be first heard of The Faith In a meeting where the Theosophiats had asked Alma Knobloch end me and others to attend. Teking e tram car going up the Neckar Talley I found myself at the old town of Keckergeaunde. Then a walk of about a mile up into the hills brought me to Dr. Grosamann's 132 home, e now ana an attractive house that he hea huilt ana completed Just before the outbreak of world war II. There I received a very warn welcome from Hermann, hia wife and two children and other members of the family household, I had not seen hia for 28 years but now and teen e card of remembrance had passed between us end there was thet tie of having been together In his first introduction to tn Faith. Oor meeting was Indeed a happy one. we had muoh to talk about seated there In his study from the large window of which we had e fine view out over the hills and down the valley in which nestled the over-one thousand years old town of Heckargemunde. Here he bad a Collection of Baha'i books and records that bad escaped being destroyed by the Nazis. There were also plans for enlarging this house for Baha'i service to make it e center for the Cause. I discovered that mine host was an artist with penoll, water colors and In oil. I was very much impressed by his Interpretation of the Crucifixtlon of our Lord and sev.eral other religious subjects. I am sure I will never forget these pictures. After on early supper the entire household, save the young fifteen yeer old son who was studying for school, walked down to the town where we took the train for Heidel.berg where in a hall almost in the shadow of the castle about fifty Friends and inquirers were assembled. Ky talk was a general presentation of the teachings, after which J.3S some questions were ssked and replied to, Hermann lnter- preting for those who understood only German. It was al- oost midnight when we returned to the Grosamann house where they insisted that I should lodge for the night. On arrival in Heidelberg I went to the military authorities but they were doing no oivllian bililting, al.though they referred me to the Hotel Europa for my meals. The old medieval Hotel Ritter where I had 3tayed on some former visits was now taken over by the Army for offices so without a lodging In view I had thought of taking a late evening train to Stuttgart where the Army eaaured me there were aeoomodetions for olvlllans. But the Oroeamenns would not listen to my leaving on ao late a train that would place me in Stuttgart at two oclock In the acrnlng. I found that Heidelberg had not been bombed, while the towns about including this little town of Heckergeaunde had been in plecea destroyed. Furthermore I learned that the general impression among Heldelbergers is that during the war American generals planned to spare Heidelberg that they might on conquering have a town with buildings intact for their occupancy, whether thla be true or not I do not know. Tuesday. EO July. 1948 - Hotel Eetterer, Stuttgart .Germany I made an early get away from the Orosamann home this morning. Hermann and his wife wanted to walk with me down -to the town where the train left for Heidelberg, but this 134 X objected to for they mould oily have bad to climb this bill again eo they compromised by walking with me down as far as the garden gate. In the town of flekergemunde, I chanced to meet one of the women Baha'is who had been in the meeting last night. She also was going to Heidelberg. Bat on arrival at th tram halt there was no electrioity ooming over the wire so for ft time I gave up hope of oeklng ay train. How.ever the current came on and I Just made It, by about three minutes, I thought that Frankfort wea a shamble but the war destruction there was less than in Stuttgart. Here the first impression from the oer windows was there was but little loft of the city but on leaving the train I found many houses still habitable and being enclosed and made us.able by walls built up with such material as was available collected mostly from the rubble thet abounded on ell aides. The Oerman way of building la much heavier than ours in Amerioa. These massive walls end partitions eocount for the mauntainouse and vast amounts of debris that one sees on all sides. Addressing myself to the Amerioan Military authorities I was referred to the Hotel Ketterer where I am now lodged, e fine modern building surrounded by ruins, the only damage to diich seems to have been some scars on its stone facade on the street. Here thee seams to be good fere at about the seme cost in dollars as in our commercial hotels in 135 America, but to the German people with their monltary conditions these prices in mark3 ere prohibitive to ell save the verv few who are wealthy. After lunoh end a nep I started out to find the Baha'i Friends. Crossing town on foot finding my way between piles of rubble along streets and across parks that were once famlller to me but which now were but s ghost of the pest, I found myself at the fine end lerge railroad station with its greet arches with roofs now open to the sky remind.ing one of the ruines of e great Roman Beth such as one might see in Italy. The forner Kings Pelace facing on the Schloss Platz as well aa most of the neighboring buildings is s com.plete wreck - only the walls standing. So far es I could see all of the churches ere destroyed, but standing Just to the east of the Apse of one of the larger ruined churches I noted a oelvary with its tall stone crucifix end figures untouched by the bombing. A visit of two months here with George Latimer in the eerly days of World War I and a stay here;of six months shortly after that war made me feel somewhat at home in Stuttgart so this destruction seems very terrible aa I com.pare things now with things than1. Crossing the parks past the theatre and opera house I found myself st Herr Golmers' bouse la the Rekar Strasse - his was the only house left standing In a considerable area. It stood out like e towering object arising amid a desert 136 of debris. Yesterday I suggested to the Friends in Heidelberg that I telegraph Stuttgart of ay intended arrival, but the opinion of the Friends was that the telegram would in ell probability reach here after I did, so I gave up the thought. Herr Golmer, his invalid wife, son end daughter-In.law end others greeted me most heertily end word was im.mediately seat out to other Friends of ay arrival. Coffee and bread end marmalade was Berved and I was told a great deal about the conditions through which the Baha'is had passed during the years of war. The Baha'i Friends suffered at the hands of the Razie. Several were imprisoned for a time. The Hitler Government did ail they could to stomp out the Baha'i Cause hut here only four of the Baha'is lost their lives at the hands of the Nazis. These were four Jewish Believers of Frankfort who were sent to a concentration camp and there gassed along with other Je*sl because of their Semetlc origin - not be.cause they were Baha'is. The troubles of the Baha'i Friends seem to have been mostly the destruction of their books and other documents, a few of the most precious of which they did manage to save. Herr Golaer brought out two metal boxes containing some original tablets of the Master Abd'ul Baha and other papers, that he had hidden from the Nazis by hurrying them in his cellar of bis home. 137 Toward all o'clock we were Joined by Herr Albrecht Nago! and shortly set out for Saslingen and the Baha'i Summer School. Stopping for a few minutes in the town or Ksslingen to see Herr Kostlin, a Baha'i, we continued on up Into the hills above tbe town, that is situated In the Nekar Talley, to the Baha'i House on a high hllieldd with en extended view toward the Schwablsher Alps. From here one could dlsoern several picturesque schlossee and the Neufen in the distance. I well remembered visiting these castles years ago In company with a group of Baha'i youths out on a bike in the hills. When I heard that the Baha'i Center was at some distance from the town of Essllngen I wondered at Its re.moteness but when I heard of the troubles vlalted upon the Baha'i Friends end when I eaw these towns in ruins I under.stood the wisdom of the Friends In p^solng their center where bombs were not likely to fall and where there was mor liberty of life than In a oity with the Gestapo surveilling the promises. There In the count jy with the house held in the name of one of the Friends, It passed unmolested by the Gestapo. Such was also ths case with the bouse of Dr. Grossman near Heidelberg. Those premises were unmolested. About forty BehaIs were congregated here In this Baha'i Center in the hills. Here I met Hugo Bender who has devoted his life for many years to the building and the development and maintenance of this Center. Also many 108 other old Friends were there, including Johanna Heuff .on Werthern whom I knew so well years ego when I used to visit her parents in their home in Stuttgart. When we ell congregated Tor supper at a series of long tables in a large glassed in sun room, Johanna in.terpreted my talk to the Friends. She is an unusually fine linguist In several European languages and has also done considerable translating of Baba' 1 teachings from the original Persian into Serai an. Toward dusk EerrvRagel brought me baok to Stuttgart in his automobile. It was still quite light on the hill.tops and from a height back of the Beha'1 property we looked down on Stuttgart and the neighboring Rotenberg, a dome shaped hill of geometric regularity on the aummit o< which is the Chapel Mausoleum of one of the Queens of Wurtemberg. I recalled climbing up to this ohapel with some of the Baha'i Friends In the early days of World War I to find the Chapel elosed. Then after the war I went up myself one day and was admitted to the interior of the memorial. Wednesday, 21 July. 1948 - Hotel yet ter er, Stuttgart,Germany I walked about the ruins of tjre town this morning and at eleven o' clock I was at 112 Alexander Strasse at the home of Dr. Adelberg Mublchlegge. Frau Alioe Schwartz now makes her home with Dr. and Freu liuhlchlegge. The war conditions have deprived her of her former beautiful home 139 and art collections and her wealth. She la now in the 73rd year of her life, but fcs enthusiastic and as devoted aa e#er to the Baha'i Faith. Here I found her living in one very ..sII room with windows looking down over the rubble end wreckage of whet was formerly one of the most beautiful cities of Europe. Her son Wolfgang was with her. I knew him as a boy of twelve years of ege in 1914. I understand he wea a member of the Nazi party, was Imprisoned in France', esoeped from prison, but in so doing broke e leg and was recaptured and suffered greatly. One of his eyes seemed to be injured but I tried to give the impression of not noticing this infirmity. Evidently he had suffered much. Row be seems to be with the Believers again. Frau Schwarz daughter 1b with her husband and family in the Russian Zone of territory. The Friends tell me that he was a Razi. I don't think he was ever a 3ellever in the Behe'l Faith. Thus this picture shows how the in.sanity of Rationalism is like a mental and spiritual plague that Infects people with its virulent vlria. I had a very happy hour with Frau Schwartz also talk- wlth and meeting the Muhlohlegge family. Their eldest son, a boy In bis middle teens la an enthusiastic member of the Baha'i Youth ranks of Stuttgart. Returning to my hotel 1 lunched, did ome writing end at four o'elook oame Herr Regie and hi a automobile, Freu Schwartz and Dr. Muhlehlegge and we all aet cut for Rsellngen 140 and the night with the Friends at the Baha'i center up In the hills where a number of Friends awaited ua for tea and a late afternoon meeting. Svenings are still long at this season of the year here In Germany so supper that followed tea was oyer an hour and a half before dark. Johanna von wart hern Interpreted for me both at tee time and at supper, the Friends all eager to listen to all that Z eould tell them about the Cause end the Believers in America and In other countries. During this time the crowd was constantly Increasing by the arrival of small groups of Friends Trom Stuttgart, Essllngen and the vicinity among which were many teen aged boys and girls. In his middle 0s is Hergo Benders son Gerhart, who e a leader among the youth of the Cause, just es his father had been a leader a generation ago. Gerhart was a prisoner of war in America. So far as i could judge from his appearance the war had not left him physically injured. He la an unusually nice appearing ohap but so retiring that I didn't have an opportunity to talk with hi*. But he was ever busy with the progrem of the school which this evening consisted of choral singing In whloh the German people so excel, and the presentation of a play, light and amusing in parts. Gerhart leading the singing and directing the play the performance of which wea out of doors on a terrace before an audienoe of from 70 to 80 Friends. Later all crowded into the assembly hall where acme light 141 Treatments were served, end X was asked to speek, this time addressing in particular the Youth Group. It was midnight before the last of ua piped down for the night, the bulls of the crowd having dispersed leaving about twenty-five of ua still talking. The iaat thing we did was to take a short walk up to the top of a nearby hill from whlah we looked down upon Stuttgart. In the light of the moon and seeing little but the lighta of the town, one did not aee the wreckage of the city. It looked quite as X remembered it of old for on my former visits here more than once in company with Baha'is I've hiked over the hills in the moonlight and looked down on Stuttgart in the valley of the Keker. Thursday. Eg July. 1943 - Hotel tetteror, Stuttgart, Germany I slept very comfortably last night in a very email room in the Baha'i House, awakening shortly before eight o'clock. I was up and out by breakfast time for a devotion.al meeting following the meal. Airplanes hare been constant.ly flying over the vallsy ell night. Hugo tells me these are the American transport planes taking supplies from Frankfurt to Berlin now practically in a state of Seige surrounded by the Russians, it all looks very serious but as in World Wars I and II our Friends have carried on their Baha'i activities Just as they are doing now in the face of further internation.al strife and difficulties. Having an engagement with Herr Golmer at eleven o'olook 148 In 3tuttgart necessitated leaving the Baha'i House at ten o' clock, Johanna and Hugo accompanying me on foot down to the town of Uaterturkbeim in the Hekar rallay where we left Hugo and entrained for Stuttgart. Our way lad down the steep hills through vineyards and orchards and several small villages. Beoauae of the Haai destruction of Baha'i books and the accelerated growth of the Cause within the last two years thre is an urgent present need for books. our Friends hare been able to secure paper stock for publica.tion but not permission from the American occupation offic.ials to do any printing. uy engagement with Herr Oolmer today was to go with him to the American authorities to ask for permission to faavs our printing done. fle and the other Friends thought that my presenoe would help. We were pleasantly received. I explained our casein Bngllah and Herr Golmer in German with a result that seemed satis- factory. I then left the .rlends to make preparation to leave in the morning for Vienna and to meet Johanna von Werthera for tea in the late afternoon at the apartment of her son Manfried who la studying architecture here at the Universe- ty. Some time ago Johanna sent me a photograph of her3elf and Manfried. He is a fine looking boy standing six feet two inches. The walls of his room were hung with his drawings done in a very careful manner. 14# la the french school, after which our architectural schools In America are Inspired a student of architecture begins his studies by drawing out the clesslo orders. Then problems of design and lastly the structural details and the actual engineering of architecture. sere in Germany the procedure of this etudy la the reverse. A student begins with the praotloal details of construction and finally works up to the monumental and the classic, iianfrled waa In the early processes of this study. A new pair of shoes la as much of en event In the life of e German In tbeae days as la the first pair of skates of the average American hoy. Manfrlad had on for the first time e very fine pair of shoes. These had re.quired eight points, fie himself only had two, but his mother and two aunts contributed each two points and his father paid the bill. fie was indeed a proud boyl Johanna and I went for supper to the home of her two unmarried sisters, where her brothers also unmarried, lives. Their home is small but an attractive modern house and is in a garden on a height overlooking the lower part of town. Thither we went by tram up the Alexander Str. past the former home of the Sohwartz family where the Heater Abd'ul Baha bad been entertained and many Baha'i meetings held. It Is s large end monumental house of Baha'i Interest mow inhabited by whom I do not know. Turning a corner we passed 7 Gerok Stresse, the former 144 home of the Hauff family where Johanna and her parents and brothers and slaters lived when I first knew them and where I visited them several times. A large modern house built in the style of a medieval scholosa, the towers of which arose high on a bill above the trees of spacious surrounding grounds enclosed within walla and grilla, over the carriege entranoe to the grounda I saw the American flag flying and our Rational arms displayed. The place now houses the American Consulate. Johanna spoke oheerfully of the many good times we had had there but quite without any feeling of envy that others should now bs living there. She conaidere herself fortunate to have one room to live in now. The atyle of her personality is in no way cramped by her Iosb of wealth. She is cheerfully devoting herself to the service of the Baha'i Faith apparently Indifferent to her losses. Johanna* s father, Herr Doetor Hauff was a large man.ufacturer of ohsicela and a man of vast means. He was a patron of tie arts and a student of Shakespeare. I recall one eeening with him in his library when he entertained a group of us reeiting from memory passages, vaguely familiar to me, from Macbeth and Hamlet. So steeped was be n classic Snglish that at times in ordinary conversation one could detect his ineiinatlon toward blank verse. Johanna's mother was of the old wertemberger nobility. There were often titled relations visiting them, many of 145 whom I recall spoke English and Frenoh fluently. I marrying Baron von Warthern, Johanna preserved the trad.ition of her family background. Johanna's two eistere received us very cordially. Crowded Into their house of modest dimensions I recognized pieces of furniture, portraits and bric-a-brac that former.ly were in their parents' home. The younger sister, Julia, accompanied Johanna and ma to an evening masting In e ball in the lower part of Stuttgart. It was their regular weekly meeting of the Baha'i community. The hall was filled by ao nearly ee I could calculate without actually counting with over a hundred people. Johanns Interpreted for me. liy talk wea on the unlveraatillty of the Baha'i Faith and the teachings aa I had found it established in many parts of the world. Today I've been meeting many old friends. Oustsve Eiger, formerly of Sssllngen called on me at my hotel this afternoon. He looked portly and proaperous. He has a family now but still retains tba boylsb smile of the stripling whom I saw so muob of in 1914 and 1920. One of the great friendships of my life has been between me end Hex Bender, Hugo's younger brother. I wrote him of my coming to Stuttgart and tonight he wea in the meeting to greet me. Max la a person who functions from ths heart - sot from the head. That very enthusiasm that has for over a third of a oentury has made him a devoted friend when, 146 not properly dlreeted, has led him Into way a far from the Baha'i Faith. Like many other men In Germany he fall a victim to the polaon of the Nasi propaganda end apent his energies and time In the Nazi cause. This has naturally estranged him from the Baha'is. Tonight when we greeted one another In the meeting I felt constraint on bis part and also on the part of some of the Believers who stood neer us. Not wishing to offend nor be mis.understood by the Believers hut st the seme time wonting to talk to Max, I asked him to come later to the hotel that we might talk, which ha did much to my satisfaction. I it him talk taking the friendly attitude that I have always had toward him. In his relation to me he seemed the same ea of old. I didn't question him ss to his Nazi activities but ere long without any lead on mr part, he said "My troubles have been caused by too much love for my oountry and not enough for humanity".. I was moved by this spontaneous statement on his part. Now 1 have a definite hope that Max may turn entirely to the Cause. Our talk was short but so far as it went most satisfactory to me. I feel that I have a definite work to do with Max and trust that our friendship will serve toward this good end. Friday. Z7> July. 1946 - Hotel AStorle, Tienns, Austria Another early start this morning from Stuttgart to Vienna by the Orient Express through trein coming from 147 Paria, leaving Stuttgart at nine o'dock and arriving hare in Tlenna at eleven o'clock at night. Johanna von Werthern was at the station to see ae off as ahe was in 1920 when I left Germany on my way to the Holy Landt The Journey passed without particular Incident. On entering the Russian Zone, Russian officers looked over the passports but there was no customs examination. A French officer in the compartment with me was not allowed entrance i There was some flaw in hia papers. Rather poor meals were served In a dining car. Those who ate aerly in the day while travelling in the American Zone paid but about one half of the price for the aame meal after we had entered the RU8eian Zone. 1 bad passed over this railroad route between Vienna and Saltaburg twice before and ber remembered seeing from the train the church and monastery of krema - the krem a Munster. . So today I was on the lookout for these buildings which are indeed a great monument. The church with the Immense monastic development of buildings is in the Austrian Baroque style and la most impressive. On arrival in Vienna there were no portera to handle luggage. Many men were loafing about but no one wanted to help the passengers, so I had to take my time carrying my bags the length of the station platform and to the exit where I found a taxi that took me here to this hotel after finding the first hotel I went to to be without rooms. 143 TUis hotel la not an Inviting place. The room la dirty but the bed la clean, so I am fortunate. Saturday. S4 July. 1943 - Hotel Astoria, Tlenns, Austria A good night'a rest of nine hours abed after which I went out and about the town. I was first In Tienna in 1907 on ay way across Europe coming from Haifa to Constan.tinople by ship - then from there by steamer to constansa on the Blaok Sea, then to Bucharest and to Tienna Tie Praedel by the Orient Bxpreaa. The following year X was here again for some days In the month of May as a delegate to the Tlllth World Congress or Architects at whloh time I saw a good deal of Tienna and its environs for much was arranged to show us visiting architects the buildings of the capltol. On leaving the hotel this morning I found myself pass.ing the ohuroh or the capuohins so I went down Into the crypt which Is the Mausoleum of the Hapsburg Family. Little did anyone think at the time, when I was here before that this, the oldest ruling family in Europe, would ooms to such e sad end of rule In Austria and Hungary. In the rows of bronze ooffins, most of which wore very elaborate, I noticed that of the Arebduke Leopold Salvator, nephew of The Emperor Franz Joseph, who In the absence of the Smperor received ua arohlteets at a reception at the royal palace In 1908. Our ambassador, Mr. Francis, pres.ented me to the Archduke and I recall our conversation mostly 149 questions test, he asked me about toe high buildings in our American cities. Prom the Cepucbins Klrklo 1 went to the near by St. Stephen's Cathedral, sow closed for repeirs. The roof and windowa were gone ~but the walls and the great spire stood the bombarding, but show many wounds. jjow a ateel roof Is being built to replaoe the former one of timber that was burned. Tlenna suffered much from bombing but was not so damaged as was Stuttgart end some other cities that I here aeon. Toe opera house, a couple of squares from this hotel, was burned and left with only the walla standing. Soma other important buildings were also des.troyed but between these ruins axe blocks of houses Intact, save for the repairs that one notes having been made to doors and windows for when a bomb went off these were shattered for a considerable radius about, the walls and other heavy masonry parts resisted the concussalona. I had lunch at the Bristol Hotel. 1 remembered being here at a dinner given by our ambassador, Ur. Francis, to some of us American representatives at the Arohlteote Con.gress forty years ago. The interior of the hotel has changed but little. Franz Joappha1 bust that formerly ad.orned a niche over the fireplace in the dining room is now replaced by a large sev.e vase that seems very out of keep.ing with the composition hut the imperial arms above the niche remain Intact as of old. 150 This afternoon I taxied to Bookllnstrasse 4 to the home of Frant Pollinger, Baha'i with whom I hare corres- ponded for some years. I was fortunate in finding the piece for there was a mistake la street number given me in my letter of credential by the Rational Spiritual Assembly. However going to a nearby grocery store the keeper of the shop told me the number wes 4 and not 14. Frau Pollinger wee home and greeted me cordially. By letter from Stuttgart sent to the wrong number had not been received so I was not expected. Herr Pollinger was not home so we arranged for me to return in the evening, all thia in my fragmentary Gena an which she seemed to understand. On my way back to the hotel X Htopped for an hour or more in the garden of the rursall. a band wae playing Tlenneso Waltzes. There were crowds of people tbere scattered throughout the grounds and all seemed to be en.joying thamsolves but they were not gey and light in spirit as I remembered them on my two former visits. I had an ice and aome Patesserie on the tsrrace of the Cesino where a large sign wes displayed saying that the place was out of bounds for the American military end civ.ilian peraonell. This x wondered at. Later on inquiry I wes told at my hotel that this order was issued to lnsurs Biol cable relations for when Americans drink they sometimes drink too much and are quarrelsome. 151 After dinner this evening I taxied over to Harr Pollinger' House that la in the Russian Zone. There ten of ue Baha'is were together for a talk and discussion of the teeohlnga. Although very few travelling Baha'is oaae to Tienna their Friends here are very much In touch with Baha'i affaire and happenlngB all orer the world. They were happy ana Tery alive with the spirit of our Faith. It Was after eleven o'clock when we ell left the houee the entire group accompanying me to my hotel. Several bouses in the vicinity of the Poili nger house were but heaps of rubble. The front door of their house was scarred and patched hut the rest of the premises showed no damage. Rear my hotel Is Johannea Ghaase and In this street at #2 the Master Abdu'l Baha was entertained in the home of Frau Luokanader on the top floor of the building. At Baumann Ghaase 5 on the third floor In apartment 5, there lived some years ago a family of Persian Baha'is and here also the Master was entertained, while here He lived at the Grand Hotel in this neighborhood. I was happy to aee these buildings of Baha'i Interest, we all stood for severe! minutes In the doorway of #2 Johanes Ghasse and through which the Master passed. Sunday. 25 July. 1948 - Hotel Astoria, Tienna, Austria A cool morning, I was up and out early and by tram to Sohoenbronne, the Tersallles of Austria, an Imperial 152 palsoe with larg and very extensive grounds laid off in the formal French manner. Although early in the dBy many people with their ohlldren were enjoying an outing in the alleys and bosquet3 of the park. I walked up to the Belvedere Pavilllon at the high point on the main axis of the park from whence I had a fine view of the surrounding eountry and the city with its domes and spires in the dlstanoe. I went into the palence chapel where a Uass was in progress and on my return to the city I looked into sev.eral churches. Before lunch 1 took a tram run out to the Friedhoff to visit the graves of Beethoven, Motzart, Strauss, Schumann, and Brahm3 that are all together within a few feet one of the others. The Austrian cemeteries are very bed in their architecture yet the planting, greenery and flowers that abound are attractive. At four o'dock this afternoon I was at Herr end Frau Polllngers where I epoke to a group of IS people attracted to the Cause. As arranged I remain! for supper following tea and at eight o'clock several of the confirmed Believers assembled for an Intimate talk about the Baha'i Administration. Our relation to the churches, political parties and other problems. The more I see of Herr Pollinger the more im.pressed X am at bis long service to the cause here in Tienna and the manner in which he has carried on the work of the Faith all under the most perplexing difficulties and hard times. 153 At one time we bad a good percentage of toe Tiennes Baba'is coming from tde Jewish Faith. Then with the rule of the Nazis here those Friends were taken to concentration camps end ended in the gas chamber'. It is a terrible thing the way in which theae Believers suffered and died I It makes ones heart quite sick to think of the sufferings of these Friends. Today I thought I would like to look into the lobby of the Grand Hotel where the Master Abd'ul Bana stayed. I didn't realize that It was no longer a hotel hut used by the Russians as their headquarters. I received a very fierce reception from e eoldier on duty who yelled at me in German in a most insulting way. The Pollingers live in the Russian zone and have suffered many indignities from the Russians who seem to handle people in the roughest way imaginable. On leaving the house these last two nights I noted that the men Baha'is insisted on walking with me ss far as my hotel. On questioning them about this I was told that Individuals walking alone at night In the Russian Zone had been known to have disappeared and nothing more heard of them. There.fore after nightfall the Baha'is walk in groups and not singly. AS in other parts of Europe, I note a great change in the spirit of the Viennese since my first visits here. Formerly they were a gay and light hearted people but now 154 they leek that gaiety which cberst was formerly so much apart of them. While Vienna has been bombed In many places notwithstanding this, as a whole the olty in gen.eral Is Intact. With reconstruction and repairs the buildings are being put baek into their original shape and character. In going about the city I note that the former character Is being conserved because it is only here and there that these buildings have been damaged. But very few have been so totally destroyed ae to require whole new structures suoh as would alter the architectural character of the city. This Is all very different from what I found in Stuttgart for there the town was so destroyed that suffic.ient of the old did not remain to perpetuate the original character of the city. These new buildings now going up In Stuttgart, built under the pressure of expensive labor and m&terlala, will perforce be primarily utilitarian with art and architecture aaorifloed for present and pressing Imperative material needa. Thus the new Stuttgart will not look like the old 3tuttgart while Vienna from the architectural standpoint will continue to have the same grandiose character as before. However grendloae be the character of the architecture of Tlenna, the grand life that created tble architecture Is no more, in Vienna Uka In Paris and In other cities of tha world there is a strange inheraony now apparent between the present crowds 155 o. people end their proletarian ways and this architectural grandeur that was an expression of the way of lira of that particular favored group of people who formerly ruled the world in those days when the great mass was inarticulate compared with their present rising condition in the world. Mondsy. 25 July. 1948 - Aboard a train between Vienna and Innsbruck, Austria. Getting my papers and permits and visas to leave Vienna and making railroad reservations has taken this entire day from nine o'olook this morning until six in the evening. Cook is the only agent in Vienna handling rail reservations so the American Express could not help me. Cook assured me that my papers were to pass not only through the Russian Zone but through the Russian territory behind the iron curtain traversed by the route of through carriages between here and Florence whloh is my next point of itinerary. But after my ticket was made out I found that I had not been sufficiently informed and that a Russian Visa would be required on my passport. This would require at least a wait of two days if it oould be accomplished la that time? Therefore I was obliged to cancel that res.ervation and lose 45 shillings on the deal and then secure another reservation on a train via Innsbruok which in turn required a pass to traverse the French Zone and a series of stamps on my Russian pass for the Russian Zone. All 156 or these various ponaits had to be arranged by the U. s Liaison Bureau that I was obliged to visit five times each of which times I had to get a permit to enter and to leave the guarded compound in which the office waa looated. It waa all very compliceted end lengthy and required much running around. Captain Beauohamp of our legation at Bern sent word to me through the military office in Paris that on arrival here I should report to the chief of army cheplalne. Reach.ing here late on Friday with Saturday and Sunday when all offices were dosed, today was my first opportunity to comply with this request. As I was leaving Vienna this evening I was tempted to pass by this formality. However when one finds himself so surrounded with military regula.tions, many of which are sprung at him as a surprise, one develops a caution lest be may overlook something that un.less attended to may block his moves and cause trouble. Therefore 1 went to the chaplains office (1 had great dlffioulty finding where it was because these various army departments are spread out over the city).. Here I wae asked whether I wanted to see the Chief of Chaplains, Catholio or protestanty 1 told the receptionist that I was neither Catholio nor Protestant and askad If there were not another category of chaplains with their chiefy There was no other religious classification and I was told that I must choose between these two. I chose the latter thinking if there were eny complications ahead for me or 15V for the Baha'is in Tienna that these could be more easily negotiated amid the confusion of protestaaism than ooplng with the definite and established ways of oathfilioiara. The chief of Protestant Chaplains received me pleas, antly. He had no idea of why Captain Beauchamp instructed me to report to him ana as I had no idea myself, our in.terview was without leeue. He had never heard of the Baha'i JTaith and didn't appear to be interested in hearing so after a short Statement of some of our principles, I made my escape. At a quarter after six oclock my bags were packed when Herr Polllnger called for me and we went to the center In the city where the Baha'i public meetings are held - in a studio placed back in a garden approached from the street through the entrance of a house and courtyard from where another entrance gsve into the garden. Fifteen of the Baha'is gathered there - ell of whom I had met save three. We had a very stirring meeting that lasted for about two hours. The people asked questions that were vital in that they concerned the fundamental foundation principles of our Faith. Everyone was happy and each expressed himself as so being. Herr Polllnger took me back to ay hotel, passing through the grounds of the former Imperial Palace, now thrown open to the public as a park. It was here that we architects from many countries were entertained forty years ago when the grandure of the Imperial and Royal Court was 158 ot Its height. As five of oar friends of Jewish background in Germany suffered extinction so here In Vienna thirteen of the Baha'is were deported to concentration camps and have not been heard of Qlnoa, so it is supposed that they met their deaths like the hundreds of thousands of Jews whom the Nazis exterminated. We in America realize but little what our friends In Europe have suffered. Their history has not yet been written. As my train left at midnight and as Herr Poili nger lived over in the Russian Zone and as it was dark when we reached my hotel, I begged him not to remain longer with me. As he was leaving one of the Baha'is and his little daughter {an attractive child of ten years who spoke some English) came to say goodbye, the little girl bringing me e bunch of red roses, .rau Pollinger had sent me a cake of her own baking earlier in the evening, so I set out for the railroad station well laden. Now at this writing I am settled for the night in a pullman sleeping compartment speeding along towards Inns- bruok and the Italian frontier. Tuesday. 27 July. 1948 - Somewhere In Italy between the Brenner pass and Vsona. I had a comfortable night with but one Interruption when the Russian soldiers came through the train examining passports and travel permits, w hen I swoke it was nine o'clock and the train was going through the picturesque mountains of the Austrian Tyrol between Saltsburg and 169 Inssbruck at whioh latter place I arrived in the early afternoon. I wan fortunate In having Frau Folllnger's cake, some chocolate and two hard-es-stone pieces of bread that X hsd brought from Paris. My Austrian money had been spent to the lsBt shilling end I bad not been able to obtain any Italian lirea in Vienna, but I made out very well, the dry bread being a balance for the sweet cate and chocolate with a bottle of drinking water that I carry in my hand bag. Late in the afternoon I boarded thla-tVhin for Italy. The route aouth was through Talleys between the high snow covered mountaina through the Brenner Pass. Uy grand.father records his impressions of this pass in his diary written in the winter or 187. m tboae daye the railroad didn't run through as it does now through the long tunnel under the high part of the pass. passengers north and south went by carriages drawn by horses, it weo then a long end a slow and cold Journey that one now makes very quickly and with comfort. Before and after going through the long tunnel the railroad runa along more or less In sight of the old stage and carriage route that tourists can now take who wish to see the high mountain scenery. Wednesday. 28 July. 1948 - Hotel de Roma, Florence, Italy Terona, then Boulognia end the train pulled into Florence at three o' clock A Ji, Leaving my two heavy bags at the station I proceeded on foot here to the Hotel 160 de Roma a five minutes walk, and was given a room where I tumbled into bed and to sleep until after nine o'clock. Half past ten found me at the office of Mar telli, the shipper and half an hour later I was at the studios of Scollazzinl, the marble oontfaotor. The work that he is doing for me is almost finished and looke well. Lunoh and a rest and at three o'olook Martelli came and we went to Gabbrielli*s studio. The four family busts that he haB made are pleasing to me and well done In beautiful earrara marble. He will make one or two slight alterations follow, lng my suggestions. At five o'clock came Scollazzinl to Martelli*s office and we made final arrangements to have all my work shipped to me by steamer to Baltimore - to reach there after the middle of September. On leaving the hotel this morning I telegraphed Gullio Jacovlello that I was here in Florenoe end during the day had word from him that he would call at sis o'clock. Short.ly after that hour he appeared and with him was Sr. Domenico d'Ambrosio another Beha'i recently having come into the Faith. We went out to a cafe for something cool to drink and a talk that continued on until helf past nine o'clock, they in the meanwhile having dinner with me in a restaurant near the Baptistry. They both understand and speak a little French so we made out very well in our Baha'i talk about many matters the world around. It was arranged that I go to 161 d'Aabroaio's bouse near the Duomo tomorrow lete afternoon where a meeting or the Friends will convene. Thursday. Z9 July. 1948 - Hotel de Roma, Florence, Italy To the American Express company this morning. I will bo able to leave here early Saturday morning over the Simplon and reach Zermatt that night. I wrote to my guide, Theodore Biner and telegraphed the Hotel de e Foate ad.vising them of my arrival. This afternoon I went to Oabbrielli's studio again to look at a slight change that he was to make on my Grand.father Mason'a bust. Then I walked ebout the city to the Duomo, Santa Croche and other familiar places of architect.ural interest, had an ice at a cafe and at six o'olock was at Sri d'Ambroslo'a house where Signore Campan1, Jecclovello, d'Ambroblo end the letter's fether-in-law, all Baha'is, were awaiting me. we talked, read from the sacred writing and had Icea and ooffee and cakes, and later I went to dinner in a restaurant with d'Ambrosio, hia daughter, an eighteen year old girl who speaks English, Jacovillo with with us. a rain eame up and I waa able to get hack to my hotel with hut little wetting by walking very close to the walla of the buildings. Friday. 30 July. 1948 b Hotel de Roma, Florence, Italy. There la an elegance and a refinement that attracts one to Florenoe. Rome is grand and overpowering in size end 162 scale but it laoks the exquisite refinement of Florenoe. Rome is big and brutal - Florence is Intimate and alluring and at the same time strong end substantial. Such is the character of these two cities as I see it in their arch.itecture, end this architecture being as it is, the reason for it all must lie deep in the characters of the Romans and the Florentines. This morning came to see me, aufalini, the marble contractor from Carrara. He is filling the contract with Shoghi Effendi for the marble for the present work on the Shrine of The Bab on Mount camel. Phillip Karrangelle gave me his name and address that I could talk with him about marble to be used at Pohick. Together we went over blueprints that I had of some marble work. He will send me his estimates and if not too high I may have him do this work, otherwise it may be less expensive for me to have it done in. America. I walked about the city Tiaiting several familiar churches. San Lorenzo, the Annunolata, San Marco and others then to the American Express Company where X con.cluded my arrangements for my transportation to Switzer.land, leaving tomorrow morning. By now I was hungry so had a seoond light breakfast - then returned to the hotel where I read for over an hour bofore going to the offioe of my old friend Tittorlo degli Alblzi in the Pelazzio Ricoardi where I had arranged to is meet him at 1:30- Hl wife and family ere in the country eo he dined with me la a restaurant after which we went to a cafe for ooffee - in all talking for two and a half boura. We had a good conversation about the Baha'1 Faith, gave him some of our literature published in his language and will arrange with Jscovieiio to meet him and interest him further. X first met Tlttorlo here in Florence in 1925 and we have been good friends ever since. He is of one of the old families of Florence of the time of the Rennal89anoe. The Palazzio degll Albizi is one of the greet palaces of Florence but it has passed out of the family and mow all that remains of their former grandure Is hiB title "Count Tlttorio degli Albizi" but this title he no longer uses. An hour of writing in my room and I again set forth for the post office and on an errand or two that brought me to the house of Domenico d'Atabrosio at six o'clock at which time I was to meet him and Jacovielo to bid them goodbye. During the day I began to think of Professor and Signora de Pietro whom I had known here in 1925 and 1927 at which time they knew some of the Baha'is here so I made up ay mind that I must try to see the de Pietros this after.noon which was the only time left me. The lest that I beard from the de Pietros was early in the war II. Signora de Pietro was in Hew York and was most anxious to return to Florence and to her family here. After e very long delay 3he was able to get baok here to Italy and then after that 164 I boord nothing more. This afternoon we three Baha'is went up to the de Pietro home, the Tlila 11 Glolello at 44 San Leonardo, an enclosed-by-wall estate Joining the high part of the Bobili Gardena. Professor de Pietro and his daughter re.ceived us moat warmly but to my dismay and deep regret I learned tbot Signora de Pietro had died during the war. We tolled about the Cause and our teachings and he eeemed very sympathetic and Z trust will become more attracted through the efforts of the Baha'is here. At least a beginning was made today. In 1922 - 1926 and 1927 I held meetings here in Florence. On the latter two visits Zaogene Hosgg was here. At all these times Bra. Burr opened her home for meetings and meny heard the Message but that was many years ago. Death has olaimed a number of those people while others have dispersed hither and yon with the result that now it Is necessary to begin anew and reoruit an entirely new group. Jacoviello la most earnest in his devotion to the Cause. Be bas mede e good beginning so far end doubtless will continue to succeed, but muoh effort and a prolonged one is necessary. Today I walked along the mmbenkment or the Amo. with the exception of the Ponte Tecchio all the fine atone arched bridges over the river were destroyed by the Germans just as they were retreating northwards as they evacuated Italy. I walked through the Borgo San lopeco where at #1 in-. and 165 Mre. Burr Uved. They owned this old pelece the "Torre de Marseilli" one of the old historio monuments of the city and it was there that many Baha'i gatherings were held. The building was not harmed by the bombs but be.ginning but a few feet to the east of this building all the houses on both sides of the street were wrecked, and by wracked I mean that only rubble remained of erstwhile large and imposing buildings. After dinner this evening I packed ay heavy begs and had them transferred to the station that I night make an easy get away in the very early morning when a taxi nay be impossible to find. Saturday. 51 Julx. 1948 - Hotel de la Poste, zermatt, Switzerland. Up st half past four this morning to make a six o'clock train for Milan arriving there at ten o'clock. Like most trains these days in Italy it was crowded but 1 had a reserved seat, people stood packing the aisles most of the way- I had a five hours wait in Milan ao took a tram line to the center of the city to spend an hour and more in the Duomo. It la always a surprise to me how impress.ive bad style architecture can be when there is enough of it to produoe an effect. Such is the case with the Duomo of Milan. Its enormous and massive proportions are so overpowering that in the obscurity of the interior one overlooks the sham trseery of t vaulting and other oh- jectionoble elements. The Italians like the Romans before them are greet builders. During the year that has passed since my last visit here much of the war destruction has been repaired and buildings reconstructed. This was noticeable in the railroad station that was so badly bombed. The Duomo waa not greatly damaged but here 1 noticed workmen on high scaffolds redoing the deooratlon on the surfaces of the vaulting, in the style of that scenic paintod-to-look-like-, work-ln-Relief that the Italians do so well ae oft times to deoelve eren an architect. I had lunch in the open air in the Galleria. Last year the glass of the roof waa still wrecked. This year it is almost completely enclosed. Fortunately I was able to secure a reserved seat on ths Peris Express. Here the crowd was thick with people standing. Other trains of a lower viteuse cams into the Station and left with people mostly men with here and there a young woman standing on the running board steps of the train and dinging to the door handles and rods as beat they could. No one seemed to be getting hurt. It was hot In Hilan but as the train ran northward and reached the lake district and mountains it became cooler and tbe crowd thinned out. The view of the Laggo De Majoirre with the I sole Bella and other Islands were beau.tiful. There were no signs of war destruction here that so mar the routes of trsnsit these days in many parts of Italy. 167 uy brother Will end I were here In this region fifty years ego this summer. We hiked Brom Switzerland Into Italy over the great St. Bernard Pese end down Into the Tel .Aosta then came by way of the lakea to Domodosaala. There we spent a night and the following day hiked up over the Simplon Faas to spend the night in the Monastery near the summit then tenanted by monks of the St. Bernard order. The following morning It was but a short hike from there down to Brlgue In the Talley of the Rhone In Switzerland. Again in 1931 Gertrude and I made this hy motor at time the moneetery was closed. The summer that Will and I were here the Simplon Tunnel was being driven so the onlyway to travel was over the pass. Row today one goes through by rail quickly. From Domodoisola tbe railroad goes by a aeries of cuts and tunnels and through deep ravines flanked by towering snow cspped mountains up to the entrance of the long tunnel that Joins the two countries. Insteed of one tunnel as is usual aooomodatlng a double track system, here there are two tunnels running parallel one to the other on the aame level - only a few feet apart with cross passages Joining the tunnels at regular intervals. At Brlgue there was s wait of over an hour before the narrow gauged rsok and pinion train left for Zermatt so I had time for a leisurely dinner on the garden terrace of a nearby hotel. It was almost nine o'clock before this 166 train left and half past ten o'clock when I reached Zermatt. There being no moon to light the mountains one could not enjoy the very picturesque and rugged scenery of the narrow valley of the Tlap through which the railroad ran. At the station in Zermatt X wee met by my two good mountain guides of last year, Theodore and Severin and by the Runner from the Hotel de la Poste who took charge of my luggage while the guides walked with me to the hotel. X had been in correspondence with Theodore. It seemed good to see them again and with the prospect of more mountain climbing. Sunday. 1 August. 1948 - Hotel de la Poste, Zermatt,Switzerland I was tired from travel last night and I enjoyed a good rest. At half past ten oame the guides and we planned a climb, up the Rifflehorn for tomorrow. Then I interviewed the housekeeper at the hotel to provide lunches for us. This ollmb tomorrow la to limber me up with the intention of going up the Matterhorn. The latter part of the neming I walked up to the Gorner Gorges, about a half an hour from the hotel where a torrent draining the Gorner Glacier comes down through a very narrow cleft in the rooks, through which one can penetratp in places on a board walk suspended above the water from irons let into the walls of the narrow-canyon while at other places the pathway is on a series of shelvee cut into the sides of the cleft between the mountains. After lunch an hours nap and the day being fine end the views of the Matterhorn alluring, 1 walked up the .alley of the Tlap that drains the zmutt glacier on the north aide of the Matterhorn and on to the little hamlet of Zmutt, about 50 minutes walking. Here Theodore's family live in the summer where his wife runs a tea ohalet. Here I had some cakes end a eouple of glasses of milk, the letter e luxury that I've not been able to Indulge In this summer -lave in Switzerland. I had a pleasant conversa.tion withTheodore'a wife, son end the elder of the two daughters, it wss a rather limited line of talk since it had to be in German. Forty five minutes brought me back to Zermatt. Today all has been a bustle of excitement in Zermatt with frequent explosions of fire oracksrs. Auguat 1st is the Swiss Rational Holiday so the natives were out in their picturesque mountain costumes and there la music and singing in the elr. I have been reading before dinner and Theodore haa just come In bringing me s pair of hobnailed climbing boots, rented from e shoemaker, for tomorrow's climb. At my re.quest he was able to obtain an alpinatock (a staff about five feet In length with one and Iron epiked). Thla will help me in coming down steep paths in the mountains. In the days of my student vacations here in Switzerland almost avery mountaineer carried en alpinatock, but lest year end so far this year I have not seen even one In use. Now alpineers 170 carry ice axes that can be used as walking sticks. Thus tae style has changed. However, I a sure that I will find more comfort with the atook than with a stick so I will try this out tomorrow. At dinner time X founi the dining room festooned with greens with amall bunches of edelweiss et each place with s spadal holiday menu. At about eight o'dock the bells in the church tower pealed forth for half an hour, the tone of which were harmonious and impressive. Although the churoh building is of comparatively modern construction, the bells, Theodore tells ms, are very old. During this half hour many people congregated in the Platz before the oburch, the children carrying flowers and fancy lanterns. Then the band of music appeared coming from the nearby Rathaus, end marched down the main street of the town to the Platz at the railroad station, the ohildren with their lanterns and the rest of the crowd following. The houses along the way were illuminated and there were bengal lights, rooketB, roman candles 8nd explosions along the route of march. I followed along with the crowd but at the station Platz returned to the hotel. By then it was dark and lights and bonfires on the near surrounding mountains gave a festive air to the surround.ings . A* I'll be getting up early tomorrow I am turning in at nine o'clock. . aag.S.s .Affi.g.s-lgjS - Hotel de la Poste, Zerwett,Switzerland Up at five o'clock, breakfast and at 6; 30 Theodore and Severin were here with taeir climbing peraphenalie and knapsacks Into which they stored the luncheon put up in the hotel kitchen. We took a 6:50 train going up the Gorner Grat Hack and pinion road as far as Eiffleboden, a station near the Bifflehorn. I profited by my membership in the Swiss Alpine Club for by showing ay identification card my fare was half the regular rate. The two guides as registered guidea went at the rate one half of mine. There are four routes to climb the Riffiehorn. They call them I - XI and III and IT numbered in relation to the difficulty of the ascent beginning with I the least diffi.cult. I was the route by which Severin took me up last year. It was on the north east corner of themountain. Yes.terday in talking over todaya climb Theodore decided that we would go up by #11 and oome down by #111. The first pert of the ascent was through snow at a fairly eteep grBde until we reached the north west wall of the mountain which from below looked to be about perpen.dicular. Here the ropes were adjusted with Theodore in the lead, I following end Severin in the rear. We proceeded along the rock until we oeae to e chimney or e vertical fissure in the wall about two feet and a half in width. Up this aperture Theodore wormed his way. There were narrow ledges but a foot or two apart on either side of the chimney that gave both foot holde and hand holds. I waited at the bottom until Theodore had gone aloft about thirty feet. 172 There be braced himself with bla beck to the rock sod feet firmly pleated on ledges and looking down oalled to me to mount at the same time drawing the rope taut that was made feat about me under my arms with the mounting cord going up In front of my face, thus allowing me to throw my bead back and look above to see where I was going. From the middle of my beck between my shoulder blades the other end of the rope dropped down to where Severin stood with Its end tied about hlme. Kvery guide Is compelled by law to have bis ropea officially tested every so often. The rope used today was thirty meters long end about a half an inoh in diam.eter - light, strong, very supple and so twisted as not to knarl nor kink. In rock climbing, but one member of the party moves at a time. After I reached the ledge where Theodore stood, Severin followed up after me. Then we re.peated this manouver some time* staggering over and across the face of the cliff on a ledge which at places was but an inch or two in width but which gave e firm foothold added to which there wore horizontal crocks or ledges within reach that gave firm and 9acura hand holds, we edged along thus until another chimney was entered that took us up to a higher level. like the formation of the Matterhorn that of the Rifflehorn la of very solid rock while that of many of the surrounding mountains la loose and crumbly. This north west route up the Rifflehorn I found to be steeper 173 and more dlffloult climbing than any part where I had climbed on the Matterhorn, by the rout* that we three went up lest summer. However there was nothing like so much of it so it went without any particular difficulty. My only impediment wee that on aocount of tbe altitude I had to stop sorerel times on tbe wsy up to catch up with my breathing. I was a little surprised at our progress when the beacon on the summit of the mountain oeme into view and in a few minutes later we found ourselves seated near it looking down at the gia ciera below end beyond these tbe Monte Rosa chain of high snow peaks. Storm clouds ob.scured the upper part of the Matterhorn and gusts of wind were bringing rain over on to the Rifflehorn so Theodore announced thet we ahould descend where near the foot of the horn there were overhanging rooks that would give shelter from tbe rain. How going to the south aast part of the mountain we began the deacent by route 0111. Here the rock arises in practloally a perpendicular from the Gorner Glacier between the Rifflehorn and Monte Rosa - literally several thouaand feet below. Getting himself into a ohlmney Severin led tbe party on the descent, Theodore holding the rope between me and Severin, I standing by until Severin found footing on a ledge, then I followed him down. The lower end of this 174 first chimney was without hand holds that I could nego.tiate so Theodore simply lowered me down, I swinging free from the rook until my feet etruok a ledge which here was about three feet wide. Then we continued on down through several similar chimney formations until this very steep part was passed. Here we halted for lunch, the rain having ceased to fell. Shortly two Englishmen appeared above us ooming down also by Route #111. A man in his early 60*s and a younger man. The former evidently an experienced alpinist. They had no guide hut they made the descent with ease although the older man was quite winded when he reached the rock where we were. It was here that we unroped end from there ceae down separately, X knew my guides were putting me to the teet and through my paces. They wanted to be assured that I would have no serious difficulty In making another, and this time a successful attempt, I hope, on the Matterhorn. After we were unroped Theodore complimented me and they both said 1 was doing better this year then I did last season. I realized this too for this past year 1 have bed fewer emotional strains upon me then the previous year and the massages that 1 Indulged in regularly all lest winter at the Washington Y have Improved the flexibility of my muscles. in fact I took these muscular treatments holding in mind that I would return to Switzerland 175 again this season for more climbing. We were about three hours walking down the mountain to Zermatt, stopping at the Rlffleberg Hotel for milic for me Bnd stronger drinks for the guides - a very well done hotel In the Swiss mountain style, nay alpinstook served me well on the descent. Its use relieves the strain on the hold back muscles of my legs, Frankly I was tired on reaching the hotel and glad to have an hours sleep, but I was without any of the leg soreness that I suffered last summer. After dinner this evening came Theodore and we planned our climb of the Matterhorn. We will start tomorrow morn.ing if the weather is good and we will not know how good or bad it will be until tomorrow. Since a young child I have always had a complex that led me to want to climb to the tops of pieces. as I re.member I was between three and four years old when I climbed to the top of the wardrobe in my grandfathers bedroom in our home. Once there I oould not get down so I yelled until some of my elders came running to dislodge me. Ones psychology is a mystery. When I think of high places and of looking down into depths below, I often get quite panicky, but when I am actually on a great height looking down thousands of feet and coming down end even being lowered down, i have absolutely no terror whatsoever. I feel perfectly et ease mentally at the situation. in 176 feet I enjoy It- It la elating end I get a great kick from It whereas from ell coeffion sense reasoning I ought to be thoroughly scared. Of oourse I depend almost en.tirely upon my guides but even then this doesnt explain to me this freedom from fear. Tuesday, a August. 1948 - Hotel de la poste - Zermatt, Switzerland. Came Theodore at nine o'clock this morning to sey that the weather e not propitious for our start up the Matterhorn, so we will wait and see what tomorrow will bring forth, when I awoke early this morning and looked out of my window I thought as much myself without knowing anything about the weather signs that the mountain guides study and know so well. Sunday morning I looked into the little town cemetery and there in the part where lie victme of many mountain ecoidente, I saw three newly made graves with identical wooden crosses all bearing the same date. I inquired about these graves from Theodore and he told me that it W98 an aocident that befell threeKngllshmen but a very short while ago who made the esoent without a guide and on a Sunday. All were killed. Theodore went on to observe that of recent years all the accidents had happened os Sunday. Furthermore saying that he himaelf would never attempt a climb on a Sunday unless it he started in the afternoon after he had been to Mass that Burning. 177 Tills morning I spent at writing. This afternoon, I slept for an hoar then went to an oat o# door concert at a garden cafe in the town where there was good musio from an orchestra. Late in the afternoon X walked up to the Luzienkapelle on a promintory high above the town on the right side of the Tisperthal. Although it rained this morning the afternoon wes fine weather, the air fragrant from the fields of clover along the way end the grass studdied'with small white yellow, blue and red flowers. The Luzienkapelle is a typical mountain shrine of which one sees so many In these high mountains. The date 1662 was oarved over the doorway. Quite small. Beating not more than twenty five people. It la built of stone of the rough mountain. The chancel vaulted the nave trussed with hesvy timbers carrying a roof composed of slabs of stone, a very simple and sincere and good piece of architecture. While I was there one of the women of the mountain came with her snsful of field flowers with which she dressed the altar, removing flowers thet looked as if re.cently placed there. I have yet to find one of these mountain shrines unkempt and neglected. The fair linen ia always freshly laundered and there are always fresh flowers. Theodore came in this evening. our expedition is all planned and laid out now we are awaiting to see what the weather will be tomorrow. 178 I have looked up at the Matterhorn at least fifty tiaes today. The effect was one of constant atmospheric change against a background of stoney immobility, the rock Itself does not change . It l s great and an im.perishable monument'. It baa had a curious fascination for me ever since I wea a boy when I only knew it from photographs. why should one in his right mind want so to risk his life on such a climb? Nevertheless one does and the rows of graves in the cemetery of those killed on this climb ere no detterent whatsoever. It is like an obseaaion. When once rooted in ones conaolousness the only relief oomes through climbing end then comes the great satisfaction of accomplishment that so feeds and nourishes onas ego and adda seat to this Ufa. Danger*. We live in a very dangerous age. Perhaps climbers in these high alps are really safer than the in.habitants of our great cities. We in America are used to rapidly moving traffio in which so many are killed, we ere used to that and think little of it. During the recent war people on the continent and in the British Isles were used to falling bombs. One wonders what next? Will those who survive these next coming deoedes ever accustom themselves to the dropping of atonic bombs? The Matterhorn is not nearly as dangerous I am convinced as many things nearer home'. 179 Wednesday. 4 August. 1848 - Hotel de la Poste, Zermatt. Switzerland. I was awake early and the sky was blue and the sun shining. Theodore oeme at eight oclock to announce that the barometer was unsteady and that we should postpone our expedition so that was that. Everything is in readi.ness for the etart. At three o' clock I started for a walk, going up the right side of the Tisperthel passed the Luzlenkepelle by the well graded and maintained way leading toward the Tuftera Alp. Shortly below the timber line this well built way ended abruptly. The latter part was evidently of very recent construction and had been but little traversed. There I turned, retracing my steps and stopping some distance down at a Chalet for a glass of milk, returned to Zermatt. In all 1 was on the move for three hours. Early to bed. Thursday. 5 August. 1948 - Hotel de la Poate, Zermatt, Switzerland. I slept soundly last night for which I was thankful. The night was the anniversary of Gertrude's death sixteen years ago. I dread the coming around of this anniversary for I often have a sleepless night. Tho morning is cloudy and rainy. I am resigned to wait bere in Zermatt until the weather permits the climb of the mountain. Another oonaideration has developed for me. A I have already noted herein, Theodore maintains ISO that all the accidents of reoent years on the Matterhorn have occurred on Sunday and that he would never go on a climb on that day unless he went after early Mass on Sunday. I told him that a somewhat similar condition had been observed In the automobile accidents in America, that Sundays casualty list was larger then that of any other day of the week and that I respected his point of view and that we would plan to avoid being on the mountain at the time of the Sunday morning Vasa. Therefore we must plan our climb so as not to be away from Zermatt on a Sunday morning. It was cloudy ana rainy so I spent the morning writing getting an airmail letter off to Edna True asking her kindly to try to have changed my sailing date from September End to late in that month. I am falling behind in my travel schedule. Things that I want to do on this side are piling up on me and I feel the need of more time on this side. One never knows what is ahead of him but I hardly ezpeot ever to come to Europe again-so I want to do every.thing I want to do now for there may never be another time for me. As my plan far oTer the pacific to Japan, China, India, Parsia and Australia materializes the world may then be at such a crises, that European travel will be impossible for me. Furthermore even now the dollar Is losing its purchasing power so rapidly that the prospect of travel and the continuance of the easy life I've been aocuatomed 181 to living looks dubious? This afternoon, like yeaterday afternoon, was misty with clouds and fog hanging low. following my after lunoh nap I took the chairlift at the north end of the town and was swung aloft in a hanging but comfortable chair attached to en aerial moving cable high over the valley and up the mountain aide to Sunaegge a station well above the timber line, it was my first experience in such a contraption. The chairs were in pairs but as no one occupied the other ohalr it was a lonely experience. On the ground below I could see the twisted remains of a steel oable rusting in the undergrowth of the mountain side. This might have troubled a nervous or apprehensive person as he swung along dangling at a height looking down at the wreokage, but 1 got by without any terror thrills. On a clear day from Sonnegge the views must be very fine, as it was there was but an occasional hole in the passing olouds that gave glimpse here and there of distant snow peaks and glaciers below. There were a number of people there et the chalet having tea, so I ordered a glass of milk and ete from a package of small cakes thst I brought with me from a bakery in the town. The walk beck to Zermatt took me Just an hour and a half, over a well indicated piste first over and down the bare mountain side. Thon on down and down through woods where calculated I would find, and did find, the well 102 constructed foot road down to Zermatt over ditch X had hiked yesterday. This is an eesy way of getting exercise, a ohair- lift up and a hike down a mountain. It suits my case very well because the musolea in my legs that come into use in going down are not so well developed as those I use in mounting. This is good training for my program In the mountains. On ay-return to the hotel I found a letter from Ette Graeffe asking me if I couldn't attend the world Spiritual Congress at Lausanne, August 12th - 14th as a representative of the Baha'i Feith. She doesn't think she 111 be able to go on account of a recent 1 llness. I will, of course, arrange ay next weeks activities so as to be at this confer.ence. To bed early as is becoming ay usual custom here these days. Friday. 6 August. 1948 - Hotel de Is Foste,Zermatt,Switzerland A fine and beautiful morning - not a oloud in the sky. I decided to spend the day on the Gornergrat to within a hundred or more feet of the summit of which I took e train up the Gornergrat Bahn, sn ascent of about an hour and a quarter. On the way up I fell into conversation with a young Scotsman from Stirling who told me that his parents had done much mountain climbing. He spoke of an unusual experience they had had on Mont-Bianc. Caught by a blizzard 183 they were obliged to spend fire days In a refuge cabin. The views from the top of the Grat were fine - quite perfect although in the eerly-afternoon clouds begen to form on the higher peaks. There were many tourists at the top because of the fine day. Extra trains had been added to the usual schedule but there were also many hikers coming ell the way up from Zermatt just as my brother will and I did fifty years ago this summer. Then the rack and pinion road was completed only as far as the Rifflealp Hotel, about half of the way to the top. After thoroughly enjoying the view X started down afoot. Hear the Riffleberg Hotel I ate my lunoh, put up at the Hotel de la Poste, had a drink of milk at the Hotel bar and con.tinued on down the mountain. I took it easily. Rested a hit at several points and at one place I had a bottle of mineral water at a wayside chalet. Nearby I found a tufty piece of sword grasa where I took a nap. I was comfortably tired when I reached Zermatt. To bed early after dinner. Saturday. 7 August. 1948 - Hotel de la Poste - Zermatt, Switzerland. It rained most of the night. Each day I see Theodore frequently. In fact whenever I leave the hotel I am almost sure to meet him somewhere on the main street of the town. My years membership in the Swiss Alpine club has almost expired so this morning I went to the Clubs headquarters 184 in Zermatt to pay my dues and cave my membership renewed. Tbe menaual reports of the club illustrated with s good re.production of photographs of the Alps are interesting and instructive documents. This afternoon at 3:15 I started on a hike up towards the-Staffelalp Hotel, going up the left side of the Tlsper- teal. It was cloudy but good hiking weather and there were many people out. About half way up to Zmutt I met a mule peck train coming down. Sloce all mulea look alike to the uninitiated I did not recognize the leader to be "Put" the mule that bore me up to the Hornlihutte a year ago. But following the train came the muleteer smiling with an out.stretched hand. He reoognlzed me before I did him and sal.uted me most volu ably in Oerman, aome at least of which I understood, we stopped for e momenta conversation. I ton him 1 was in Zermatt awaiting better weather conditions to go up the Hatterhora. He remarked at the bad season for climbers and made some other remarks that I didn't under.stand before hurrying on down to keep up with his mules. A little farther up very near Zmutt came along down the weg, Thomas, Theodore's son. Theodore Is very proud of this boy and has remarked to me more than onoe about Thomas' strength. Like Theodore he has the slender, wiry muscular build, has a keen eye end a winning smile. we stopped for n moments chat, i told him that his father bad told me that he was to be the porter of our climbing party imd that I was awaiting with impatience the good weather 185 that would favor our expedition. As one approaches Zmutt going up the Thai the most conspicuous of its structure Is the nail white washed chapel with its altsr end toward the east. Next to it standing very near is a large challet, with timbers darkened by ege end this is where Theodore's family live in the summer months - his wife and two little daughters serving tea, milk and bottled drinks to passing tourists. On entering one of these huddles of mountain chalets, they are really too small to be called villages, one is in the bosom of the family, so to express It. The chalets stand in irregular informal formation, all together. Some.times but a few inches apart and the people seem to live the communal life as expressed in their houses. Although many of these chalets lean this way and that, appearing to be about ready to tumble down, their timbers are so halved and dove telled together with tongued and grooved Joints that they are very strong and have withstood the etorms of more than a oentury. Window boxes filled with oolorful flowers, people sitting in their doorways talking with the women knitting and sewing and children playing about give life and interest to what would otherwise seem to be a des.olate existence up here in these high mountain valleys where there ia so little save the magnificent scenery. Iven the land available for man and bis domestic animals to live upon is very restricted in the floors of these narrow canyon like valleye and on the very narrow and ateep shelve like places 186 upon the mountain aides where sufficient earth sticks to support the very verdant end long rooted graasoon which the community la dependent - not only for fodder for animals but for the very equilibrium of the land Itself for were It not foT the long and wiry roots of this mountain grass the little productive soil would aoon be weshed down end away by these mountain torrents end be carried on down end into the sea. And these mountain people develop sturdy natures and ehareoter tenatlona and In harmony with their surroundings. Chereoter e character wherever one may find it and It Is found here among these people. Their land Is under a con.tinuous Invasion of tourists and pleasure seekers year la and year out for both summer and winter sports, yet their life and their own ways of doing things continues along with en even tenor undisturbed. From ell the terrors under which the people of our large metropolises now live - strife between classes, races and nations and now the dread of the extinction of large massea of population by atomic and bacterial warfare, the people In these high mountain areas seem to be free, were the worst to happen to our citlee, calamities such as are predicted by some pessimists, life in the Swiss mountains would la all probability survive and continue as it hes for centuries In this the oldest of ell republics. Passing through zmutt X followed the route way down 'and over the vlsp by a modern steel bridge spanning the 107 deep cleft In the rooks through which the torrent of the vlap rushes and tumbles, carrying the melting of the ioes and snow of the metterhorn that flows down the north side of the mountain to the zmutt Glacier. Looking up the Thai the upper part of the Matterhorn wes half hidden by clouds but the lower part on which hung the glacier was below the mists and viaable. I followed the foot way up the south or right side of the thal on for some distance toward the Staffel Alp Hotel until I reached theJost Tea Chellet. I had passed this v/ay last year with Theodore as we were coming down from the Hornllhutte. We had had something to drink here. He knew the woman running the place end today she remembered me from last year. It began to sprinkle so here I set down to a couple of glasses of milk having brought with me some small cokes from Zermatt. My thought had been to end my walk at the Stefie1 Alp Hotel still twenty minutes distant, but as it was then five o'clock end olouds gathering with the prospect of more rain end as e cold wind was blowing down the thal from the glaciers above, I decided to retrece my steps back to Zermatt. Instead of crossing from the right to the left side of the gorge by the bridge near Zmutt, I continued on down on the right side over a less used but well graded way. At several points this way wended in and out of corridors that extended up the mountein side where slides of boulders had come down in great avalanches - all long enough ago IBS that by now the foot way had boon cleared of debris, but nevertheless showing the danger of being oaught in suoh e corridor by a slide. Those who know the mountains al.ways step along briskly in crossing a corridor never re.maining there abouts longer then absolutely necessary. Aleo in mounting or ollmbing mountaineers avoid going up in a corridor if an arete is available. At some little distance down the thal the way joined one ooming down from the Schwarzee that I recognized aa one that I had traveled leet year twice in each direotion. This brought me down to Zermatt over a somewhat steep and stony way in all requiring an hour and twenty minutes walk.ing from the lost Challet. After dinner this evening Theodore came to the hotel ae planned. Me had been talking with a guide Just down from the Matterhorn who reported thet the way up to the Solvay Refuge was eleer of anow but that above that it wea very difficult climbing. This condition I had feared from looking at the mountain and comparing the whlteneaa of its upper portions with the darkness of the lower part8. We held counsel and decided that the only things to do wea to postpone our climb until this ice had melted to much less an amount than that of the present. I now plan to leave Zermatt for e time, keeping in communication with Theodore to return when he advises me that the climbing is possible. 139 Sunday. 8 August. 1948 - Hotel de la poste, Zermatt, Switzerland. I chanced to meet Theodore on the street this morn.ing as he was coming from Mass. The temperature is muoh warmer and a high wind blowing. He is expecting to take a party up the Rothhorn tomorrow if the wind goea down. He ventured the information thet on the Matterhorn high wind8 sre very dangerous lest a man be blown from the rook right off into apace. Thle warm wind ought to melt the ice If it continues long enough. Today Ive been feeling tired, so between strolls up and down the street Ive been stretched out in my room reading end this evening doing some writing. Theodore called after dinner and we chatted. He knows much about the histories of these small ohspels off in the mountain valleys. Three times eaoh year he tells me Mass is said in these far away and isolated shrines. I told him of my hopes of going up Mont-Blano. He would like to accompany me together with a Chamonix guide but I dont know how this would work out sinoe he doee not speak French and the Chamonix guides are all Frenohmen. Then there would prob.ably be other complications suoh ae a passport and s visa for him and the personal adjustment problem between German 3wiss and Frenoh guides. I dont see this combination working out in a practical way. Monday. 9 August. 1948 - Hotel de la Poste, Zermatt, Switzerland. 190 Theodore oaaa this morning and I settled with him, Including Severin, for services as rendered me so far. I leave tomorrow for the Lausanne Spiritual World Con.ference end he will keep me posted about the ice on the mountain. I've spent most the dey reading end writing. At tee time I walked up to a challet near the Luzienne lapelle for ay afternoon glass of milk and a viaw of the valley. The barometer Is still low. Now hack In my room I am gathering my things to.gether to leave in the morning for Lausanne and Geneva. Tuesday. 10 August. 1946 - rue Condole - Geneva,Switzerland Today Is the 107th anniversary of my father'a birth In Burlington, Iowa. I took an early train down to Ti3p this morning in a pouring rein and after a wait of over an hour there caught a through train to Geneva. As the train proceeded down the Rhone Talley the skys cleared and In looking across the valley toward Tvorne I saw the heme of Dr. Farrell where I called on him in 19SE at Shoghi Effendlts request on my way back through Europe from the Holy Land. I recall hearing some time after that of the drowning of Dr. Ferrell's son-in-law In the Rhone near Yvorne. I do not know the circumstances but the incident came to my mind as from the train I had glimpses of the stream, milky white in color like all glaelal waters as it rushed turb- Ulently down through the rocks of the ralley. 191 On arrival at Geneva I went to the Pension Minerva hoping to find a room for the night, but they were all filled up. This is the height of their season. The Beha'i Bureau was my next objeotive where I found Etty Graeffe and Ann Lynch busy at their desks and where we were joined shortly by Preu Disselhorst who is still here, unable as yet to return to her family in Berlin. For tbe next half hour Etty and I talked about the World Spiritual Conference In Lausanne that convenes to.morrow afternoon. In preparation for the conference we made a selection of a large photograph of the Baha'i House of Worship et Wilmette and some books for an exhibit at the conference added to which were books for sale and an assortment of free literature to be handed out. My next conoern was a room for the night so I went to the railroad station where there is a "placement bureau for tourists and travellers. There I was assigned a room in a "Hotel lieublee" over here in the University Quarter, a quiet part of the town, et $2 Rue Condole. A nap in my room and after dinner I presented myself at a meeting of the Beha'is in an upstairs private room in a cafe near the University. Seventeen of ua were gathered there. One of our young Persian Believers, now attending the Un.iversity presided and geve an introductory talk. Then asked me to apeak which 1 did for about half an horn: giving a general presentation of the Cause. 192 The majority of those were edvanoed University students both young women and young men. Two of the latter were theological, students end at the finish of my talk many questions were asked, some of whioh 1 answered while others I pa seed on to Etty Graeffe and Ann lynch to reply to. While I speak French with as little effort as English requires of me, I do not feel that I speak it well enough to present the Cause as it should be presented to even a small audience. The truth is that for the Baha'i teaching I don't know the words and terms sufficiently well to make my statements In the conventional manner in which the presentation should he made. Therefore I appreciated the suppor t of Ettya and Ann's presence. I remained on for a time after the meeting dosed talking with two young friends from Holland here in Geneva on a few days visit with the local Baha'is. They are travelling by cicycle carrying with them e stall tent and cooking outfit to oamp' along the roadside. One of these youngsters I met last summer at The Hague - son of Herr Tyssen and he told me some Interesting things ebout the Friends there. We wound up the evening, six of us, by my asking them to heve ice cream that whb served us In the cafe and now at 11: SO X am turning into a bed that is very comfort-. Able. 193 Wednesday. ll August, 194a - Hotel Jura-Siaplon, Switzerland. After breakfast this morning I went to the Baha'i Bureau where I helped pack a large suitcase of our books to take to the Lausanne Conference. Then I went to the post offloe and did a few other errands sad at one o'clock net Btty Graeffe at the railroad station where we entrained for Lausanne, she lunching with Be in the dinar enroute. Here In Lausanne we taxied to the Mont Banon Casino where delegates to the World Spiritual Conference were register.ing before the opening meeting of the oonferenoe which was scheduled for three c'clook. A table in the lobby of the Casino very near the doorway into the auditorium was assigned us and we arranged a display of our literature in front of a large photograph of the House of Worship In Wilmette and topped by a sign "Baha'i World Faith", There was quite a crowd there and the rest of the afternoon Etty and 1 were kept husy receiving people, telling them obout the Faith and answering their questions. Some few had heard of the Cause. To most it was new. ktty bad tea with me on the Casino terrace looking down at the lake end the high mountains beyond and at five o'clock I took her down to the station to return to Geneva while I came on here to this hotel where the secretary of the conference bad engaged a room for me. After dinner I walked about the town for an hour, then went early to bed to be up and at the conference In good season tomorrow morning. 194 Thursday. 1 August. 194B - Hotel Jure-SimpIon, Lausanne, Switzerland. Before nine o'clock I was at the table of Baha'i ex-, hiblte at the Casino where the Spiritual Conferences are held and about an hour later Itt:.* Graeffe Joined me there, she coming from Geneva. There weS music and several speeches that consumed the morning. From noon to two o'clook there was a recess when Ktty had lunch with me at the Casino restaurant and a group photograph waa taken. Then this afternoon there were addresses by different rel.igionists. A European convert to Buddhism spoke. A pro.testant clergyman ana others. The group of more than a hundred gathered In the auditorium reminded me much of the group of people gathered at Green Acre in the middle and late 3390's es I remember that Institution before the Bebai Faith v/as presented there. There were a number of cranks end devotees of curious occult and mystical cults - spiritualists, mediums and the like and there were also o number of well balanced and well poised people evidently outstanding intelligent thinkers - end so the program went until almost six o'clock, when Etty went out for tea with me and I took her to the station and saw her aboard a train for Geneva. The Bsha'i Faith is scheduled to come on to the pro.gram the lest day of the sessions. All the time people are 195 looking over the Baha'1 books and pamphlets end are asking questions and wo are giving out free literature and taking names and addresses of those interested. 1 had a shook today. Ktty tells me that Oeorge Latimer died e few weeks ago. X can hardly believe it but she tells me there la mention of this in the last issue of the Baha'i Hews* George was fourteen years younger than me so I've Blweys thought of him as a youngster. Be has alwaya been the picture of health too, Bnd in no way assoc.iated in my mind with Illness nor death*. George was such a fine companion in Baha'i activity. For five years he and I travelled about together over the Pacific several times, then over the Atlantic to Europa and the Holy Land as well aa many travels in the United States and Canada. It is hard to picture this association at an end for this life. I will write an airmail letter tonight to his mother. Row that 1 think over things, I recall a letter re.ceived from chrlaella Newell Just sb i wes leaving home, in which ehe mentioned something ebout George's health. I have known for eoae time that he has been under a great strain of home responsibilities and work in the Cause, but apart from that thought, Chrlaella's letter didnt make much of an impression on me. I will write her tonight, also. Friday, lg August. 1949 - Hotel Jure-Slmplon, Lausanne, Switzerland 196 Up early and down to Ouohy on the lake by the Fun.icular. From this shore one could eee very plainly Thonaon-Les-Beins on the other aid* of the lake in France where the kaster Abdu1 Baha spent some days in 1911. I hove been trying to find out the neme of the hotel in which He stayed but no one ao far as been able to give me this inforaation. At nine o'clock I wbs at the Casino for the session of the World Spirltuel Congress. one of the Persian Baha'i students came from Geneva to assist et the exhib.ition of our books, pamphlets and photographs and he assist.ed in receiving people and answering questions. Others of the young Persians wera scheduled for this duty these days but the young Shah of Persia is in Switz.erland and they were all oalled off to Bern to meet him. During the noon recess I went up to the cathedral for a moment of architectural relaxation. A good deal of reetorlng haa been done there ainoe my last visit some years ego. The new windows in the north transept and clerestory of the choir are particularly fine, done by a man whom I met in Newport some years ago (an Amerioan) then making windows for St. George's Chapel (Newport) who told me that he bed done these windows in Lausanne Cath.edral. I don't reosll this artist's same but he had done considerable work in the United Stetea. The Chancel win.dowe in St. Phillip's, Charleston, South Carolina, was one of bis windows. 197 Tiie afternoon session of the conference was devoted to the discussion of spiritual aspects In education In.cluding the advanced sciences as well es In child educa.tion. It was most Interesting. our young Persian had tea with me and I took him down to the station and put him aboard s train for Geneva. Etty Graeffe was not able to oome to Lausanne todey, but will be here tomorrow. I had a cablegram from Edna True today. She Is not 8ble to have my passage home deferred but suggests that I take It up directly with the united States Lines, i am calculating how this oan-best be accomplished. Sinoe our State Department patronizes these stsamers In the transit of their representetlves it occurs to me that possibly George wadleigh can bring some pressure to bear for ms from our consulate in Bordeaux- Saturday. 14 August. 1946 - Hotel de Paris, Chamonix, Prance An eerly breakfast after which I took ay luggage to the station and proceeded to the Casino whsre I arrived half an hour before the conference convened.. Ktty Graeffe oame arriving from Geneva shortly after ten o'elook. At my urgent suggestion Btty made the Baha'i talk of half an hour In French. I wes scheduled to make It In English but Inasmuch ea all of the proceedlnga of the World Spiritual Conference have been In Frenoh and German, about 95$ of ths former end about 5$ In the latter language - and none at all In any other language, I felt the Message 19a of the Baha'i Faith should be presented In the language most understood by the assembled congregation. Of all the presentations made in the aeasion JSttys was the moat impressive. She epoke extemporanlouely, giving the Message, her words oomlng like a spiritual ben- edlotion. A hush seemed to oome over the people, that hed not before been In the proceedings of the conference. People listened moat attentively and there seemed to be a move like a heartbeat in the group that pulsated in unison with the words as she spoke. Something happened spiritually during those momenta'. For some time after the session closed the Baha'i exhibit table was surrounded by people asking questions, seeking pampblets and inscribing their names end address that communication might be sent them. As we packed up our remaining books end other printed matter we remarked that the suitcases were not so heavy as when brought to lauesnne. Etty had lunoh with me end by three o'clock we were in Geneva and parting after this very happy time together. Late in the afternoon I took a train Into France from the French Railroad Station on the south lake front on my way to Chamonix. France and Switzerland come together here on the Lake of Geneva in suoh a manner that topographically there is no distinction between the countries. Nevertheless on 199 crossing the frontier one recognizes immediately that he is in another country end with another people. Thla is In the very nature of these two peoples themselves. Sot only is t'ce life economy, standard of living and the general condition of the oountry different in Franoe from Switzerland hut the people themselves seem to have another spirit although the race end the language are the same. Passport formalities and customs examination at one station on leaving Switzerland and at another on enter.ing Franoe slowed up things and took a good deal of phy- lcal effort handling luggage because there were no porters _ all a reminder that even in times of ao considered "Peace" there is a constant commercial warfare going on between the nations. There were several changes of trains snd long welts at stations until about six hours after leaving Geneva 1 reached Chamonix shortly after eleten o'clock at night. The town was closing up. Several hotels were closed but with a small grip in hand I found a fairly comfortable room at this simple hotel with a grand name - "Hotel de Paris",. Sunday. 15 August. 1940 - Hotel Splendid Royel, St. Gervais Les Bains, Franoe. Every day for more than the two weeks where I have been in Switzerland it has rained for at least a part and sometimes all dey so it seemed very good to look out this morning and find a cloudless day. After walking about 00 the town this morning and looking up et Mont-Blanc from various points I went to the Bureau des Guides and talked with the man in charge ebout the prospeots of climbing the mountain. He reported that the past few days the snow conditions had not been good but thet he thought in a few more days the conditions would be normal. Taking e train down the valley to St. Gervais-Feyet, I lunched there In the station restaurant before taking the kont-Blane rack and pinion road up here in the moun.tains to St. GeTvaia-lea-Bains. Although an ordinary station restaurant I had an excellent meal - far better then anything that X had eaten since leaving France several weeks ago. The French are the worlds best cooks. Here in St. Gervals-las-Baias there were orowds of weekenders ell out enjoying themselves but the local Bureau aes Guides was closed so I set out to make the best of the day. It was warm and X found a oomfortnble bench in the small park adjoining tho ehuroh and here I enjoyed a short nsp. Nearby stood s monument inscribed with the names of 69 men of the town who fell in World War I "For the honor end glory of France, etc." very much the sort of inscription thet one sees in all these Europeen countries. Such is indeed sn outdated sentiment snd the messes of the people of the nations ere beginning to feel thet Indulging in the Ideals of Rational Glory is no recompense to them for the C..t.R. naar with Koat-Slcne In tbo 41 stanca taken by Sity 3r*effa LAbbaye D'Hautecc Third annual -orla Spiritual Congres* - im. i sanno , SvltMrltnd 19*3 ^i'.uoLnno 19* 3 Lappel Mondial Je BAHA'DLLAH Aujoord'hoi, de lTslande Ji In Tasmanie, de Van.couver i la Mer do Inline, s'lendcnt ics ramifications ilune Fni qui embrasse IUniver* el qui infuse Uni ses ndcptr* unc espdrance eE une vigueur qui I gni- rjLions Ig.irs ont depuis lougtempa perdues et qu'cllea etaient impuissantes jusqu'nlors k retrouvev L'Esprll divln qui. dans lAge apostidique de l'Eglisc, aniniait lima set membres, la primitive parcie de sea enscignements. reelat premier de sa luinire, sans aucun iloutc renaitronl et revlvront. comine une con.sequence illvitable de U nouvelle proclamation par Uaha'u'lluh de vritia fondemeola.cs el du clair expose dc son objel original. Car I'Enscignemenl de lialiii li'lluh, si on le juge csaeleincnt. ne peut cn aucun de sea principes, sc Irouvcr en disaccord el encore mo: ns uu ronllit avee iEspril de Jcsus-Cliriat. Im Parole de fuh.u'llalt, rasseiublant lea croyanccs ..parses el tri>l> souvent dichires cn leur sein niiuc. rappclant ii chacuuc delles que Unites sent les cslrails d'iine minne virile, que leur base est identique, que scales les formes les ditfmicicnt, iicriuetlru dc gui- der les hommes vers un ideal qui dunne le vnii uioyc malrici de Vie, puisque smis aiuuur ui sollduril, la guerre, la hainc. lu misre, le incurlre, le dscspolr rCgucnt eu mailres ot deimcnt lea sooiitis. Aus nu- llons, Uaha'u'llah fail comprendre qudlcs soul les parties d'un toul et qu'elles sc rompllcnt les unes les autres com me lea aalres d'un syslmc stellaire. Sana tu cohesion qui feru du mondo une uuild orgn- uisiSc. quoique diverse el vuriic cn ses ronages coui- pliquds, 11 nesl pas de salut pour rboimue : celle ilcgr qui scmble une apogie, le vaiucra i. son tour sous su force incoulrble. Urn rnt*bv< de l'Acadinie des Science, u dil : < l'lilssc lhunmniie, dans l'orgueil eiagrd de sou sa- volr et de su fiillacieuiie puissance, nc pas faire Jliuii- lier uu Jour notre lerre comine llumbe dans le ciel, cerlillncs nulls, rinccudie gigautesque (*l Iragique d'une Nova I a JMS* Certificat Ascension le Guide-Chef soussign cerlifte que O.'^cnjtCerftCxj o foil ovee uccs loscension cA^. o-*>c. du ^|Lo-^.ii lY^u-tli fe ^4pUii)?le 4^4 occompogn des Guides ft-CfmALti , ^ *s-V Cic-V-*' 201 terrible sacrifices that they have to meke to support this great apector of nationalism that brings the world nothing but misery end death. Looking aoross the velley from the height of the public park I sew a telepherique cable line running up and disappearing over the top of a mountain. It looked interesting so I walked around over a bridge and up to the atation where e crowd of people were lined up waiting for the arrival of the aerial car. I took a ticket and after a short wait was able to crowd Into a car with 23 other standees and away we went swinging through the air up over the mountain side. Then over e valley higher up, and another mountain, where everyone changed Into another cor on another cable to be swung on farther up and up to the top of a mountain In the upper distance. All ths while during this run the views of itont-Blanc and the surrounding ranges were becoming more extensive as we mounted. On arrival at the end of the telegerique, there va.a still a higher mountain ahead topped by what appeared to be a hotel or restaurant - about a hundred meters I judged higher than the station. Some people were walking up to this point so I followed down end over a col and up e grass grown arete to find the building at the top closed ana boarded up. I was anticipating a cafe au lalt to be served there, but later on the way back I found my cafe au lalt in a chellet that I had passed on the way up shortly after leaving the col. 20 From these heights one hes a fine view of the masslve- ness of Mont-Blanc. hile the rock of the aouateln crops out here ana there in many places through snow end ice the ensemble effect of this rast mountain - the highest in Europe almost 16000 feet - IS that of snow and Ice. The summit was vlsable but now and then moving clouda hiding It - then revealing it. When X returned to the town the valleys were in ahade but until the town waa in comparative darkness the alpine glow on the heights snone brilliantly on mont-Blano. Monday. 16 August. 1948 - Hotel Continental, Lion, France. I had a comfortable night in this very good reaort Hotel Splenaide Hoyel. To the Bureau des Guides this morning to inquire about the prospect for a climb up Mont-8lano. Just at present because of very reoent snow* thie is not advisable but I was told that a few deys of good weather and the way urculd be good for an aacension. In other words now seems not to be the moment for me to do any climing in the Alps, so I will go on ay way to Bordeaux, Paris and England, hoping for better climbing conditions in Switzerland after two or three weeks when I will return to these mountains. If I am ever to do this climbing it ought to be done this year as X may never oome to Europe again. However that was whet I thought last year, yet here I am again now thie year! I left St. Cerveis-lea-Balns at one o'clock by bus 202 for St. Qervais-.ayet wnero I bod another very good meal in the station restaurant. Taking a train at four o'clock that brought ae into Lion at about midnight where without difficulty I found a room in this hotel. Tueadav. 17 August. 1846 - Hotel .Orleans, Albi, France. I left Lion at an early hour this morning for Avignon and 'faraaeon. The sun was ont and the run elong the Rhone was beautiful. Even at this distance from the glaciers the water of the Rhone la milky white. The waters of the Tisp that drain the north side of the Matterhorn flow on past here Into the Mediterranean. I did not leave the station in Avignon but from a distance oould see the cathedral and the palace of the Popes that I had visited in years past as well as the Roman remains at orange which the train passed. At Avignon I took a train to Tarsseon and Himes spending a couple of hours at tho latter place lunching and making a tour of the Roman ruins. The Arena, the Temple of Diana and the Maison Carr*. These places do not change. I saw them firat in 1097 on my way north from Spain and the Balearic islands. This was a city of importance in Roman times to which importance these monumental remains testify. Cette, Narbon and Carcasenne were passed on the way to Toulouse where I arrived late in the afternoon. Prom the train there is a good view of old Cercasonne with Its medieval fortifications and cathedral rising on a height silhouetted against the distant Pyrenees, i recall making some sketches along these ancient rampurts in 1897 and 204 getting Into some trouble with tbe local police because It was a fortification. I was passed with a reprimand. It was after ten o'clock that I was able to leave Xonlouse for Albl. This gave me time to look about tbe city and see some of its fine old architecture, the out.standing characteristics of which is several polygonal church towers done in briok with a series of unusual ang.ular arohes locally known as in style as "She Toulousan Arch" that in my travels I've never found elsewhere. It was midnight when I reached Albi and this total d'Orleans where I was assigned room #9 for tbe night. Wednesday, la August. 1946 - Hotel Splendide, Bordeaux, Frenoe. Although I have traveled several times in this part of France, this is my first visit to Albi where there is a famous cathedral tbet I've long since wanted to see. This cathedral s unique among French churches. It is a fortified church of large dimensions with the tower, turrets and roofs ao treated with battlements as to make it a vaat fortress in time of war, while the interior is ar.ranged for worship. The Cathedral of Albi is most iaposlhS lQ its great mass of masonry and in its simplicity of design. Built of brick with stone used where neoessary but sparingly, the design and details of the edifice are pleasingly in harmony one with the other. The masculinity of the mass of brick work entirely devoid of any attempt of decoration is a 808 foil n a background for the feminine richness of the Tery elaborate late Qothic decoration of the stone work thus creating a balance between brute strength on one side and beauty of line and soulpture on the other that is oost impressive. The Interior, without aisles nor txanoepts - twelve beys in length with a polygonal Beat sd is encircled with a series of shallow chapels, the buttress welle between these chapels ending on the exterior eaoh with e circular battlomented tower. The oonutruction principal of the building la the anthesis of that of the French Qothic where in which style there la always economy in the mass of material used, so that with the Qothic system of thrusts of arches and vaults and buttresses to contrabalanoe these thrusts an equilibrium is established throughout the entire structure. A deed mass of masonry meats the thru8ts of the vaults of Albi with no apparent attempt et economy of material. This was the prinolpal of oonstruotion In the classic style, the Byzantine and the Romanesque, but in none of the churches of these styles that I know of was tnere evrr suoh a mess of masonry as here at Albi. From the floor of the neve 1 climbed to the highest point on the tower, counting the steps aa I descended, 169 according to my count. Circular stairways in the terrets in the lower parta of which the wells are over three meters 206 In thickness further impressed me with this structure then I had been impressed by viewing it from without. The wells and vaults of the interior, treated with stucoo on brick, are richly decorated la polychrome all in a high key. While most of this decoration is in the spirit of the Italian Rennaisence and really out of harmony with the spirit of the simplicity of the construction of the building, a thing that a purist would not lika as a whole it is, nevertheless pleasing to the eye although one should not look too closely at this detail that is crude when compared with the exquisite detail of the Gothic decoration. This polyohroae work waa evidently done at a very much later date than the construction of the church. The Interior with its one vcy wide nave reoalls the oathedrale of Cerceeonne and those of Catalonia south of the Pyrenees that are so impressive in vastness of seals. 1 spent most of the morning brouaing about the cathedral then about the town with Its several high stone bridges over the Tarn that bera outs deep ravines through the hills. Many yeara ago 1 made the tour of the Gorges of the Tarn higher up towards its source - a very piotureaque section of the oountry where in places in deep clefts in the rock the atresia disappears entirely from view for dis.tances flowing through aubterraneon passages to burst forth again in a volume of water coming out farther down the valley. SO? A train between noon and one o'clock took me back to Toulouse through this fertile and cultivated part of France of which I had seen nothing last night as I was tnen trav.elling in the darkness. An hour and a half waiting in Tourlouse and a run of four and a half hours brought Be to Bordeaux where I was met at the station by George wedleigh and motored with ay luggage to this hotel very near to the Ameriesn Consulate. Here he end bis family lived for e time on their arrival here In Bordeaux until they found the small furnished house in which they now live. A quick shift for me and George took me on to his house for dinner. Joy greeted me most-kindly. It seems both strange and very pleasant to me to find ones own family living here in France. Little Mayy Ramey ffedlelgh now a year end a half old has grown and developed very much since they were with me last year in Washington, and then there is now the second child, David Howland Wedleigh, born since tbeir arrival in Bordeaux. The world and its people move on despite the diffi.culties and embarrassments of this terrible day in which we live! Thursday. 9 August. 1948 - Hotel Splendide - Bordeaux,France Railroad reservations, cashing e check and writing letters took the morning. George came for me at noon and we motored out to his home for lunch, then back into town, I going to my hotel room for e nap and later doing a little sightseeing going to the cathedral and about the olty until George came Tor me et six o'clock, we going to the house for tee and later dinner end the evening. Little Mary is a child with a career ahead of her - already she shows signs of s decidedly attractive person.ality. Little David Howland is of e more retiring temp, eraent. He is a happy child and quiet about it. He hea dignity - a rare characteristic for a beby. Friday. 20 August. 1948 - Hotel Splendide, Bordeaux.France. Up at six o'clock and In the rain to the St. Jean Station where I entrained for St. Jean-de-Luz on a visit to ay old friend Hiss Louise Darby. For aost of the four and a half hours of the Journey thither It poured in torrents and was cold for this season of the year but es the train neared St. Jean-de-Luz the sun ceme out and all was beaut.iful. Taxylng to the "Tlila Flournoy", Miss Louise's home, I found her well end charming as ever. Her home there is a fitting background for her. The grounds about It are ample. She has fruit trees end a large vegetable garden besides the flowers and terraces with views out over the see and on the other side toward the Pyrenees. We had a very good lunoheon and a talk and then a motor drive out along the sea as far as the Spanish frontier. The countryside here and lte houses is very Spanish in -character and look far more prosperous and better kept than 209 any other pert of France tnet I have seen since the laat war. At one point we drove about a modern medieval chateau on a hill by the sea built some years ego by the archaelog- 1st, Yiollet-le-Duc. It is on archealogical creation in the style in which he did so many reconstructions of the medieval period. I took a late afternoon train back to Bordeaux arriv.ing cere at ten o' clock for a late supper at a restaurant opposite the opera house where an orchestra gave good music to those eating snd drinking. Saturday. 21 August. 1946 - Hotel des Seints Feres, Peris, France. George called for me at about nine o'clock this morning and I went with him to his home for a substantial breakfast in the American style. Through the u. 8. commis.sary in Peris, he is able to obtain various home foods that are indeed luxurlee here. After an hour and a helf with Joy end George and the children he took me to the station where I took a noon train getting me to Paris for late dinner - an uneventful trip. Sunday. 2_August. 1948 - Hotel des Saints Peres,Pari a,Franoe Rain this morning. I put on my rubbers and reinooat and went to the Flea Market but was unsuccessful in that whloh I wanted to find since between the bed weather end vacation time (August is the vacation month for Parlsf tne hop, where the bronzes were that I want, was olosed. The 210 afternoon and evening I spent in ay hotel room reeding and writing. Monday. 23 August. 1948 - Hotel dea Saints Peres,Paris,France Spent an hour and a half standing in line at the Amer.ican Express Company to get a reservation to London (I had registered for it on July 15tb). Even then I didn't receive my ticket but was told to return at five o'clock when it would have been made out. When I returned at five o'clock 1 bed to remain one hour before the ticket was heeded me. During these Intervals I lunched, went again to the Flea Market (but found the shop there still closed) and took the funiculaire up to the Basilica of the Sacred Heart. The view out over Paris was extensive - the afternoon wea clear. Had 1 not found some current magazines to read the day would indeed have been dreary. Many of the shops in Peris are closed for the summer and the regular things of life are going at slow speed but there are many American tourists here now. The lack of efficiency at the American Express Company la extraordinary even for France. Tuesday. 24 August. 1948 - Hotel des Saints Perea, Peris, France. Today I went to the 0. S. Steamship lines end had my passage home delayed in order to give me more time in Europe. November 5th was the first sailing they could give me, but I hope through Edna True's agency that I can make 211 this erller. However, if not, there is work I can ho with the pioneers in Bern Bnd other centers of Beha'i effort. There are mountains to climb and I went a few more days, if possible, at Aix-les-Bains for treatment for ay stiff neck and benumbed feet. Was disappointed in finding the Louvre Galleries closed today. Also the David Exhibition held in the orangerie of the Tulleries. I did some shopping for a couple of bronze unis for Pobiek but found nothing sat.isfactory. Thus passed the afternoon ending up in the Luxembourg aardens after s ooll on Billy Owla without finding him at home. After dinner I bad an evening of reading in my room. Wednesday. 25 August. 1946 - Hotel des Saints Perea, * paria. Prano a. This morning I took a nine o'clock express train to Dreux. The lest time x was there in 1931 with Gertrude I missed seeing the Chape lie Royale St. Louis and today I went there for that purpose but to find that the Chapel end surrounding park was closed to the public. There was nothing for me to do but to take the next train back to Paria. This afternoon I went to the David Exhibition at the Tulleries Gallery. His very large canvasses pictur.ing Napoleon that were formerly at Versailles and in the Louvre were not In this exhibition but there were well over a hundred canvasses large end small end In addition to tneae a number of small studies In pencil and in Ink, both In line and wash - all beautiful and filled with Interest. Some of the portraits looked as if they had been done very recently save that now-a-days one does not find such fine and sincere construction. I am now ell set to ataTt In the morning for London. On going into the hotel lobby this morning I found Mr. and Mrs. Douglas Gordon and several other Baltlmor- lens whom I knew. At one time recently they informed me, there were eighteen people from Baltimore here in the Motel des Saints Perea. At eleven thirty-five 1 left the Gere du Nord on the "Rapide" for London by Calais end Dover, an agreeable run during most of it and at lunch I talked with a pleasant American chap just out of oollege. Arrived at victoria Station shortly after eight o'clock coming directly to this hotel where I had engaged a room. Friday. 7 August. 104S - Roayl Hotel, Woburn Place, London, Log lend. This morning to Victoria station for my reservation and transportation back to Paris one week from todsy. I waa there over an hour In a queue for tho reservation - then the whole process had to be lengthened by queueing again for the rail tranaportation. Having thla extra dey I thought beat to spend It et 213 Cambridge, e place I've passed through by rail on three previous visits in England without stopping there to see the oolleges. The day wee fine end I enjoyed brouslng about the various groups of oolleges each with its commons courts end chapels - then walking along the river. Vaca.tion is now on but hee and there were dons end other schol.astic looking men. Everything seemed to be open to the tourlst9 of which there were a number In evidence, both English and foreign. I've noticed of recent years here in England that pieces of tourist interest are much more open to the public than they were on my first visits to this country. Furthermore the working people appear to be more in evidence and have more then formerly. They are doing more travelling and are more in restaurants and in other public pieces than I recall in years beck. Upon the other hand the upper class is less in evidence now than in those former times. It was after nine oclock before I had dinner, so am turning in early. I called up kr. and tare. Ferraby. We will meet tomorrow afternoon at "Eastwood Grange".. Saturday. 28 August. 1948 - The Baha'i Summer School, Eastwood Orange, Ashover - Derbyshire .England. This morning I went to obtain a ration card in Russell Square and to Selfrigea for purches then for half an hour in St, Pauls where I walked around through the 214 aisles, nave end crypt before returning to tne botel for my luggage and making e train leaving St. Pancres station at 12s18 for Matlock near Ashover where I arrived with delays and travel in all covering six hours. Then a motor ride of several miles here to Eastwood Grange, a large and elaborate Victorian Country Estate rented by the Baha'is for their Summer School, that oovers a period of three weeks. X was welcomed most heartily by Dr. Townsend, Philip Hanisworth, David Hofman and a number of other friends whom I had met and knew more or leaa well. I was lodged comfortably in a guest bouae in the grounds not fer from the house where meals ere served and the conferences held. After dinner this evening about fifty of us gathered In the drawing room for the opening meeting of the school. Richard Blackwell presided and I was the speaker (errenged some weeks ago) my subject was "The Holy Spirit". The opening or first talk before a group of Believers assemb.ling thus ie usually difficult because people require seme little time to settle themselves and relax. This process at the least requires a little more time than we had had together. However I did the best I could and things went fairly well. Tired from traveil am glad to turn in now at eleven o'clock. Sunday. 29 August. 1948 - Bahai Summer School, Eastwood Grange. Dp and at the house by eight o'clock after forty-five 215 minutes o. chatting with various Friends. The morning devotional meeting was called in the assembly room and for fifteen minutes the Holy Word was reed with Ledy Horaell presiding. Then breakfast, followed half an hour later by a session of the friends for an hour end e half with Richard Blackwell speaking end a general dis~ cussion "God's Covenant and Man's Response".. After lunch about thirty of us went off for a hike across the valley to a high roekjc bluff two miles or more distant. The climb up the steep parts wea very slippery and muddy in places but I managed to mske it without damage to my clothing. From the top we had an extensive view out over attractive country. On our return to the Grange we had high tea and I slipped in a nap before the evening meeting presided over by John Craven with mo as the speaker. lbr subject, The Baha'i Temple. This went to my satisfaction for well over an hour, I talking on the temples of all eges from Abraham's Altar on the mountain top end finishing with the Baha'i Temple and ita spiritual function in the world of today and thet of the future. After this e light supper was served, and we conversed until eleven o'clock. Then to bed. Monday. 30 August. 194fl - The Baha'i Summer School, Eaetwood Grange. Another happy day with the Friends. The program at 816 this morning's suasion was conducted by Dr. Townshend, bis subject "The Heralds" - a scholorly discourse of which I heard but little on account of my poor hearing although I sat directly in front of the speaker and in the front row of seats. These English voices are very pleasant in tone and do not grate on ones nerves as does the typical nasal American voice, but for me the American voice'. Piercing ns it is it is preferable because I oen hear It clearly whereas I- have greet difficulty in hearing the average English voice that is low and to my ears a long drawn out suable. This afternoon 1 attended Dr. Term abends olasa on "Christian Subjects" and thla morning at a meeting several Pioneers told of their work. A lady from Germany, now a Pioneer in Belfast, Ireland, gave an account of some of the rough experiences of the Believers under the Nazi regime in Germany. She had lived for twenty five years in the united States so had the American entonation end I beard every word clearly although I was seated not near to where she stood. Tuesday. SI August. 1948 - The Baha'i Summer School, Eastwood Orange. The programme this no ruing was conducted by Hesaan Sabri - subject, "The Two Manifestations of the ringdom".. Following this meeting over thirty of us started forth in a large and comfortable bus to see something of the 817 oountryside of Derbyshire, o beautiful part of England with wooded hills and Talleys with mountain cliffs, rivers and lakes. We passed by several large country estates and through villages each with Its picturesque cburoh and church-yard on our^vay up the Derwent Talley as far es a large lake reservoir, looking down upon which one could discern traoes of a village with it3 church submerged when the reservoir was installed. From here we turned back to the town of Ca3tleton where we had lunch at an inn. Thi3 town was dominated by Pevril Caste, now in ruins, on a hill two hundred or more feet high which some of us mounted going up Into the Donjon or keep from which there was a good view. We bad tea at cewtleton and were back at the Orange in time for dinner. After dinner Richard Bleckwell gave a dlshortation and a brief review of the Baha'i Publications made in Great Britain and still later there was dancing In which exercise I took part. Wednesday. 1 September. 1949 - The Bahai Summer School, Eastwood Orange. Mr. Ferraby gave the talk this morning - subjeot "The Appointment of the Letters of the Living and their Contrib.ution to The Faith" closing with the history of rurratu'1' Ayn, The latter part was moat impressive. After lunch I walked down to the village with one of the ladles - a Believer of Manchester - where I ordered a 218 .taxi to Beat se early day after toaorrow to take me to the station In Matlooh that I may cateh the early train up to London. After tea this afternoon I attended Dr. Town8'o.end' a elass in "Christian Subjects" and after dinner this craning there was a Busical in the drawing room of rooal and piano music with some recitations followed by dancing. I am now in ay roos at tan o'clock for the night. Thursday. B September. 1948 - The Baha'i Summer School, Kast wood Grange. The subject of the conference this morning was the continuation of the history of The Bab and Bis days con.ducted by Hichard Blackwell. A aeoond abort conference followed addressed by a Bellerer from India telling us much about the causa there. I took a walk down to the Tillage of Aihorer between showers of rein this afternoon. This is a quiet little town with its stone housea and old Gothic church. There, Just to make doubly aure, 1 interviewed the taxi man again who will take me to the station tomorrow morning for an early train up to London. As usual this afternoon I attended Dr. Towashend's Seminar on Christian aubjeote. This evening after dinner there was a jollification held in the assembly hall and a game in which certain ones drew lots eaoh beving to do a stunt. It fell my lot to put on a dance with one of the 219 ladles. After this a George Beroerd Shew short play "Overruled" was presented In the drawing room and then * goodbye epeeoh was tendered me by Bichard Blackwell to which I responded. Then I stood by the door and shook hands with everyone as they left the rooa. Thus ends ay very happy and Instructive time here with the British Baha'is. AS 1 was impressed by the sincerity, devotion and seorlfloes of the ploneere throve hout Latin America and throughout Rurope on ay travels of the pest two or thres years so during tola past week ay heart has been moved In like manner through these days of intimate contact with these British Baha'i Friends gathered here at the Summer School. There have been no dramatle nor great stirring events this past week but at all times i have been eon- solous of a great flow of spiritual consciousness and devotion to the Faith actuating the entire group - all being partakers of this spirit and saoh a part and portion of it - and this has Impressed me deeply and tonight In aaylng goodbye to these Friends I felt that I was taking aomethlng iaway with me that I did not have when I Joined the group here some days ago. Friday. > September. 1948 - Hotel des Saints Peres, .arls, France. Up at five o'elook this morning to make a stealthy get away without awakening the other occupants of the lodge. eeo At lx o' clock came tb* taxi that I had engagad, ao I nade with aasa the early train up to London. 1 had an hour In Derby for breakfast Bnd reaohed St. Pancras at about half past leren. Doing to Tlotorla Station I left my luggage there to spend an hour and a half In westminater Abbey, Henry Tilth's Chapel, that was closed when I was In town In the Spring and was open today. I spant none minutes there and around through the ambulatory. Then I went on to Westminster Cathedral. The Cathedral still looks rather bare in places await.ing the Installation of moseleo. It la impressive because of Its boldness and bigness of Interior but to me the ex.terior, particularly the west faoade la fussy and has too many motives. It laoka the almpUolty of the interior. A rather poor lunoh in a cafeteria end I made a two thirty train for ToIkatone where a steamer awaited the orowd to take us to Calais where we entrained for Paris, reaching here at eleTen o'look. I am now In my former quarters bere In the Hotel des Selnts Peres and turning In before midnight. Saturday. 4 September. 1048 - Hotel des Saints pares, Parle, France. This morning I went to the Flea Market where I found tho bfonsea that I eould not get on my laat visit there when the shop was closed. Then to the Amerloan Express Company to do some banking end after lunoh end a nap, back ZZ1 to the Flea Market to pay for my purchases and to arrange for their delivery to the packer who will attend to the shipping. Spent the evening in ay room reading and writing. Sunday. 8 September. 19*6 - Hotel dee Saints Paree, Paris, P.enos. A pouring rain all day long. I had Intended going down to Chertres today but I felt a bit tired so decided to apend th entire day in my room writing letters, going out only for lunoh and dinner. Monday. 6 September. 19*6 - Hotel des Saints Peres, Parle, Pranoe. To the American Express company this morning for some money. Than for a little sightseeing. 1 went to the Amerleeh Pro-Cathedral of The Holy Trinity and found It open. The building has not ehenged since my student days save that lately there is not that American life there of former times, it ell savored of the peat deoadea when there were many Ameri.ane of soolal prominence and wealth living in Faria. These types of people are no loiter here dor in their former prominence in our country. The churoh had a deserted look. 1 entered end left through the cloisters and the Parish house all without seeing anyone et all. My hext point was the Cbapelle de Hotre Dame in the rue Jean Oougon, a pieee of architecture In the Louie XTZ style done while I was studying here that I have admired. "With the exception of my first projet that was in the Roman 2 Classic style, all of T projecta while at the Eoole dee Beaux Arta I did In the Louis m style. This chapel has for ne a cartala Baha'i interest, for here Mae. James Jackson of early Baha'i note In Paris, placed a figure of Jesus, the Christ. This came about In the following manner. There was a Bazaar held on May 4th, 189P, to raise funds to support several Catholic charities, at which .any people of prominence were gathered. Then came an explosion followed by a fire that killed a great many of these people. Mae. Jaekaon accompanied by her nleoe. Countess d'Azvedo, was delayed In reaching the Bazaar. When their oarriage entered the street the temporary building housing the fate was In flames. Thus the delay In their arrival saved their lives for almost everyone within the building was killed. Later this chapel was built on the spot as a memor.ial to these many victims, and as a thank offering Mae. Jackson gave this figure in marble of Jesus representing his body taken down from the aroas. it was three yeera later that Mae. Jaekaon beoame a Baha'i. She contributed much to the growth and welfare of the Causa In those early days. In architecture, design Is but one of the elements to be considered. Beauty and texture la vary important but most important of all la sincerity and truthfulness. In 25 thin chapel of whieh I write, the design la excellent and there e much very fine end beautiful material. Itonolythic oolunms of fine oolorful marble and auch beautiful bronze work la used but along with thla la auch plaster work so handled as to Imitate atone work. However now:thst the building la beginning to show Its age, thla camouflage le apparent end the effeot la moat disappointing. So long aa people are deoelved they may for the time be happy but when they 41soever this decep.tion they don't like It at sill An architect should never resort to Imitation, for when this Is dlsoovsred, snd sooner or later It will surely be discovered, un.pleasant reactions are aur. to result. My next venture was in the rue Drouot to s shop Where I had seen a fine roae colored marble urn about thirty Inches in height suitable for s cinerary urn. Thla 1 purchased at the bargain price of 5,500 francs and took It by taxi to the packing establishment handling my pur.chases. After lunch and a rest, I oslled on Billy Owin idiom I found was absent In Blols, then I broused ebout sight.seeing over old and well trodden paths. The pantheon St. Stleone du Mont, St. Severin and Sotre Dame. This evening Dr. Marvin Ross, curator of the watlers Art Gallery In Baltimore, who la staying here n the Hotel des Saints Peres, had dinner with me and we had a pleasant ohet and now I am turning In after packing ay bags ready to start in the aorning for Genera. Toaday. 7 . Scptsaber. 1846 - Pension Minerva, Genera, Switzerland. An early start this aorning for the Gara de Lyon from whence I entrained for Genera where Stty Greeffe met me at the station at about seren o'clock, coming with me to the Pension Mlnerra where I had engaged a room. It is in a rery central neighborhood and Is inexpcnaire so suits me perfectly. Etty had supper with me at the little terrace reataur- ant near the Cathedral and we chatted about Baha'i matters. I am glad to find myself again In Genara. The days run hars from Paris was mads In sunlight - a fine day - the first good day I hare had for some time. I trust for good Pall weather here in the mountains of Switzerland. Wednesday. 8 September. 19*fl - Pension Mlnerra, Genara, Switzerland. Awake before six o'eloek thia morning writing letters for orer three hours and a half before late cafe au lalt after which to the post office and then the Baha'i Bureau taking with me to the latter place a paokage of books that Darid Hofman had entrusted to me at the English Summer So bool whloh a trarellar oould bring Into thia country but which If sent in by post or express would be subject to B25 At the Bureau I had a pleasant visit with Itty Graeffe and Ann Lynch and the former went with me to the American Express Company where she has an account and kindly endorsed ay check on my Washington bank tor much needed funds for ay puree was depleted. I had lunch with Etty at her Pension, then to my room for a nap. Later to Taoheron and Constantine for my watch that they have been overhauling and restoring it to its original ponditlon after It had been badly repelrad by various jewelers at home, and shortly before four o'look X was at the Baha'i Bureau for the regular Feast of nineteen Days. Here sixteen of us Baha'ifl were congregated - four women and twelve men Believers. A very happy meeting at tha oloee of which tea, cakes and fruit were served. After the meeting I took a stroll up and down the quai and for the first time from here this season had a fins view of Mont-Blane. It la an inspiring sight - one of the most beautiful mountains that I have ever beheld. From this distance ite great mass towera out above the surround.ing peeks in a more impressive way than when seen from the nearer points at Chamonix and S. Gervaiae-lea-Bains. A telescope on the qual gave me a more detailed viaw than my naked eye. I remarked to the man in charge of the Instrument that today was my first view of the mountain from here this season, whereupon he told me that yesterday and today and on two former days were the only times this summer that he had flBen it himself from Geneva. E26 I trust that tills means that September will be tree of olouda and storms in the Alps that have made mountain* serins so difficult so far this season and in man; moun.tains impossible. Returning to theBureau, gtty and Ann and Frau Dleaselhorst ent with me for dinner to the little res.taurant by the Cathedral here we four had been together before for tea earlier In this season. After a long time of waiting and maneuvering to obtain the necessary papers, visas and travel paruita, covering several years, this lady has reoently made all of her arrangemente to return to her home In Berlin, and In ten days from today will start her flight from here via Basel and Frankfurt. She tells me that some of the former Baha'is of Berlin ere mlealng, having disappeared without traces and It is feared they may never be beard of but sbe la anxious to get back there and work with the Friends In their service of teach.ing and strengthening that oenter of the Faith. Half past nine o'olook end I am turning In early. Thursday. 9 September. 1946 - Hotel dAngleterre, chemonlx, Franoe. I took a train this morning from the French Station at eleven o clock for Chamonix where I arrived shortly after four oclock. The seme fine weather of yesterday prevailed. liont- Blanc standing forth In glistening snow white against an azure blue sky. On my arrival here I went directly to 827 the Bureau des Guide end spoke for two old and exper.ienced guides to take me up the mountain eter ting to.morrow morning. Then I went to a sports shop to fit out ayself with some warm clothing, heavy hob nailed shoes and crampons for the cold, snow and Ice on the heights. I wanted guides of mature years on aooount of not wanting to be pressed or hurried on the aaoent. Youngsters are wont to hurry, so I reasoned. After finding a rot In this hotel I took e walk down towers the west end of the town where by the road.side X sat on a benoh In the shade and with the aid of my guide book looking up at Wont-Blanc, I traced over the route that I had decided to follow up to the summit of the mountain via the Tete Housse, Alglullle du Gouter, Dome de Gouter - the Bosaea and to the summit? This route X felt I oould do without too much fatigue spending three nights on the way up in order to acclimatize myself to the altitude. One night at the challet de Tete Bousse. One at the Refuge on the Aiguille flu Gouter and one at the Hefuge Tallot. Such wea my plan that I explained to ay two guides and one Porter when we met to consult about our expedition. They concurred with me In my plana save the night at the Refuge Tallot, explaining that during the war that refuge had fallen into a state of delapldatlon that rendered it well night uninhabitable. Furthermore being of duralaneum it was very cold so It would be far better 228 according to their Judgement to push on td the suwalt rather than tarry at that refuge. Weill We will hare to sea how that works out. If the weather continued good their way will be feasible, but in oase of fog or storm my plan will bare to be resorted to. For several weeks paet I've been atudying ay Guide Tallot with its oharts and I am quite sure from the in.formation derived therefrom that I an about oorreot in choosing this routa aa the one beat suited to me and ay age. The guides suggestion Bay work out for me but if not we can always fall back upon ay plan to pass either one or two nights at the Refuge Tallot. They suggest that the return be from tbe Tallot Refuge via the Crand Plateau and glaoisra to the Grand Mulata rather than the descent over -the route outlined that we intend following to the Tallot oabin. There will be far lese descent over the rocks going this way and over the snows the going will thus be easier although of course In longer stretches than those of the ascent that we plan to make. wc went to a grocery store and ordered provisions for four or five days after whloh I bed dinner and sa now gett.ing myself packed and ready to meet the guides and porter in the morning. Friday. 10 September. 19*8 - Refuge Chalet de Tete Rousse Altitude , id? meters. At eight o'clock this morning eaae my chief guide Alfred Couttet and we had eoffee and rolls. Then we went EE9 to a money changers where I replenished my purse, and from there to the Epeorrle where we were met by the second, guide, Pierre Cerise and the porter, Leoa Cachet. Pierre Insisted that we had ordered too much food, that It would not be consumed end would be but a useless burden. Thereupon certain things were eliminated. The knepseoke filled and we four took an omnibus down tha Talley to Lee Houcbea from whence a telepherlque oable extends up the mountain, to a point where it meets the rack and pinion steam tram that runs from La Peyet up to the Rid D' Algle. Tha small aerial oar attaohed to the cable was quite filled with ollmbers with their paraphernalia when we lined up to enter. 1 was afraid there wouldn't be room for us but the attendant directed the stowing of the knap.sack* 'and the packing in of the people until we 7 passen.gere were all aboard then with the signal to atart tha oar Bailed up aloft oTr the Talley end above forests below to the terminal station np the mountain from where we walked about half a kilometer to where the rack and pinion tram awaited ue. The telpherique seemed a shaky affair but this tram that bad bean running for many years seemed to be much more shaky ss it puffed and labored up the mountainside to the terminus of ths road at the Chalet du Rid D'Algle. Hera we stopped for lunoh - a Tery good meal serTed by the woman In charge of the place. Here the altitude wee ,372 90 TU* dar was beautiful - not a cloud in the sky and the sun rery wain. After our deljuner I found a level place not far from the ohalet where i stretched out and went to sleep until aroused by Alfred saying that it was then three o'clock and that we should be starting up to the Refuge Chalet de Tete Hoasee at 9,167 N. alti.tude where we planned to spend the night. With Alfred in the lead, I following, with Pierre behind m? and Leon bringing up the rear was our order of ascent. Alfred took a slow but steady gate that I had no trouble in following fairly close at his heals, up over loose rocks - In the very steep places zig-zagging to make the asoent easier. From below in this clear and rarlfled air the Tete Housae didn't look to be very far, but at each Stage of the way as we reached a point that from below seamed to be near the Tete I found in reality to be fer short of what it seemed to be. At an altitude of 8,768 we stopped to rest for flf- tsen minutes near a forester's cabin that appeared to be deserted. It wae about her* that the snow began our route going up a pente that we negotiated eeslly and with.out crampon*. By digging our toes into the snow that was neither very soft nor very hard it was easy to get a foot.ing. As we went up the snow beoame harder and in a few plaoes I had to use my ice axe to make a better footing then Alfred's footsteps afforded me. Row began the steepest part of tbe asoant zig-zagging 851 up the rocks. Here there was some snow but the rook afforded hand bolds to stead? one where the way was up along narrow ledges et considerable heights. I would hare felt more at eeae bad I had the rope about me but nothing had been said about using this device, so I followed on without ouch difficulty. Somewhere on this last lap of the aeoent Leon, the Porter, aeparetod from us going on ahead at e more rapid gate thap X could maintain in order to reaoh the Chalet before us, build s fire and have tea ready when we ar.rived. This all worked out well. Before we reaohed the Teta the Chalet came into our view on a horrizontal shelf on the mountain side Just where a long and wide steep descending pante of now shone very white in the light of the aun that was still et some distanc# above the distant mountain peaks. This Chalet-cabin was a roomy affair built by the Club Alpine Francais with bunk accomodations for fifty people at a pinoh. a sufficient supply of water for drink.ing and culinary purposes (but not for bathing) was avail- able from the melting enow on the roof, caught in a tin ean of large dimensions. A stove In the center of the eofflBon room with a limited supply of fire wood, ample for our needs, if used with discretion, tables and backless benches afforded the necessary eocomodatioa in the living room in addition to which were two rooms _ one large and one nail with two tiers of bunks and a goodly supply of ess blankets, while off to one side of tle small entrance room or storm shelter vestibule was kitchen with door looked and a "keep out" sign where a guardian of the premises holda forth In mid summer when there ere many climbers passing this way. Leon found the pleoe deserted and by the time we reaohed the cabin (It waa then six o'clock) he had built a fire and had the water boiling for tee. Tee is the mountaineers' drink often with rum in it, of whioh liquor we had a litre in our kit of supplies. The guides felt that they must have thla along with four litres of wine to keep them going. As I em not a tee drinker (I can not sleep after drinking tea late In the day) so my tsa was ehooolate made with canned milk, for I wanted to sleep the night out rested for the continued climb we plan for tomorrow. While we were at tea the door opened and six man Al.pinists rilsd In, we all shaking hands as they unloaded their packs and arranged themselves about one of the tables. They too planned to make the ascent to the summit. There la a very cordial fraternal approach among Alpinists. Thsy are moat oonslderete and helpful to one another. There are oertain unwritten rules of etiquette too, that sre adhered to. All are very polite one to the other. Each Individual or party carries his or their own food and drink which they oonsume under ordinary olroum- atanoes without offering it to others save should someone 35 be without food or drink whereupon they hasten to ehore whatever they have. Late In the evening when our two parties were eaoh at supper, along oajse a oabin guardian on hla wa7 up to the cabin de I'Aiguille du Qouter. for same reason he was Insufficiently provided with food so between us all a meal was assembled for him. Bred In these mountains and used to hardships this man started out alone In the moonlight night to the eebln on the A'gullle 650 w_ above us and up a series of rooky cliffs that from below looked to be almost perpendicular. Before leaving he carefully ad Justed hla ear muffs, hood gloves, two pairs of heavy woolsn socks and leggings, for the nights la these high altitudes are very cold and ears, fingers and toss when exposed freeze quiokly. Pierre Informed me that he had with him an extra pair of ear muffs for me. 1 bad not thought of ths naad for such but Plarre knew the danger of freezing. It la another world up here in this realm of eternal snow. Although but a very short distance from the every day life of people down In the valley but this reelm up here has its charm and its call otherwise so many Alpin.ists would not risk Ufa and limb to ollmb to these heights. After supper this evening the ten of us sat sbout the stove by the light of two candles set in empty bottles as candlesticks and we talked. Stories were told and 1 was 'asked various questions about Amerioa and Ufa there. One of the men, Jean lioni by name, had been in America. He has a eister liylng in Washington at 1901 Wyoming Avenue, married to a Colonel of the united States Army (Colonel Char lee L. Decker). This young men had lived in Mexico where he had climbed Popooatpetl, He was an expert Al.pinist. later I learned that he was the leader of this party of elx. The youngest man of the perty was study.ing Hydraulic Engineering and was planning to travel in America in the near future. He was apparently in better circumstances than the others dressed In climbing togs of unueuel fine quality, I gave him my card asking him to let me know when he came to Washington. I, myself, intend calling on Colonel and Mrs. Dehker. They are neighbors of mine. After Leon had oleaned up our Simple eating outfit he made up a berth for me, one blanket over the mattress with three more over me and a fifth one rolled up as a pillow and now it is half past eight o'clock and I am turning in. Saturday. 10 September. 194fl - Hefuge Chalet de Tete Rousae I slept warm and comfortable last night. a bright moonlight wes on high and Stare were brilliant but the latter part of the night an increasingly strong wind blew up until it was a gale. The oabin Shook. This kept me awake for a time but X dropped off before daylight until I was aroused by Alfred saying that breakfast was ready 2S5 and that tha wind wee too strong for ue to attempt climbing, but'we must welt for It to abate. There was nothing to do but sit about, talk and wait. Toward mid- morning the wind went down so we had an early dijuner and shortly after eleven os clock were ready to climb. Alfred put the rope about me and we net forth, the other party of six having preoeeded us by an hour or ore. I notleed the "aaekerel.^sky and mares tails" Just forming la the sky that the sailors rhyme warns against a ahlpe carrying full sells, and when Pierre saw these formations he called a halt for the party and after some pariet between him and Alfred It was decided that we re* turn to the cabin. These two guides work very well to.gether as a teem. Alfred is the leader while Pierre does a good bit of the steering and all In harmony one with the other. We hadn't been long In the eebln when the sky became darkened the wind arose even stronger than it had been during the night and the sir was filled with snow. Soon the party of six filed into the cabin white with snow and at their heels earns a father with his three sons of about eleven, thirteen and fifteen, olotbed, or I bad better put it, unclothed In shorts end otherwise scantily protected. Those little boys appeared to be old for their yeers. They carried themselves and acted more like old men than like Ohlldren. They filed in solemnly end sat down In a row for a time during which their father fed them with biscuits ES6 from tols paolc ana after they had warmed themselves started down the mountain in a lull la the tor and were soon lost to our view as we looked at them through a window. Pierre pronounced Judgement on any man who would take his otildren out ao 111 prepared for high climbing and in such weather. A little later two man and two woman staggered in covered with enow heving braved the enow ooming down from the next refuge above on the Aiguille du Gouter. Apparently they had had a rather rough time of It but after warming themselves from without over the stove and from within with hot tea and stimulant from a bottle, they seamed none the worae from their enoounter with the storm as they settled themselves about a table for a game of cards. There was no use in fretting over the situation, when Alfred asked me what X wanted to do about our expedition I told him that ay one idea was to get to the top of the mountain and if the stom cleared and that were possible X wanted to oontinne on up. If bad conditions for the climb continued after the etorra we would have to go down to Chamonix and await a apeli of good weather, then make an.other attempt. Thus the afternoon passed. At times the storm would let up a bit then break forth again. I napped while the others had tea. X didn't oare for any, then oame dinner time. We were now fourteen people in the cabin and to fac.ilitate the oooklng it waa decided to have one communal dish of soup each group contributing things to drop into 837 a largo pot of tolling water that was the vehicle. Con.centrated foods for the mixture from boxes and cans were thrown Into the boiling water - almost everyone making contributions and suggestions, my suggestion being that I add a quart can of pork and beans from Leons pack but someone thought this too much so a half was called and the mixture served and it provad to be very good food. Despite the many oooks the broth was not spoiled. Sunder. 11 September. 1948 - Hotel d'Angleterre, Chamonix, France. Again this morning I slept nntil breakfast tlma. One of the party of six was a priest and unbeknown to me it had been arranged that he should say Hass. The service we a just finishing when I awoke. Considerable snow bad fallen and was still falling, but tba wind had diad down while heavy olouds of mist and snow enveloped the mountains. There was no discussion as to what to do. The only thing to do was to go down to Chamonix, so a little after nine o'olook we started a feft minutes ahead of the other six, the other remaining four following - these last mentioned we did not see again. Bolding the aerne formation that we maintained mount.ing Alfred led direetly down the very steep snow pente. Crampons were not neoessary as the recently fallen snow was soft and even below this eoft surface the snow not too hard for us to dig our heels into it to maintain a footing. Missing page 236 Occasionally *7 fact would strike through the aoow on to rooks beneath. Our progress wes brisk Compared with the climb up the mountain. We were going down along the right band Bide of the Blonnassay Glacier. From dis.tance to distance the smoothness of the pente was Inter.rupted by deposits of rook thus forming a series of pents. I remarked to Alfrod that I regretted not having a camera to take a photograph of our party on route. A little later we were passed by the six Alpinists who were travelling faeter then us whereupon Alfred oalled out to them asking that they take a shot of us. They had two cameras so we paused for a minute or more while several shots were Bade, prints from which they promised to send to bo. 1 look forward to having these aa souvenirs. There was snow felling but the light seemed to be good. Lower down we crossed two or three small glacier flows that led into the Bionnaaeay Glacier and from then on for some distance we were alternately on laterial Borrainea and then on ioe until we reached the end of the deep snow. There were crevasses here and there but small ones. To my surprise after an hour from the oabin looking down a stoep rool^ preoipice I found we were nearing the Chalet du Hid'd*Aigle from whence our climb had started on Friday afternoon. From here we took a zig-zag eouraa down the rooks that were covered here and thare by the reoent snow to the Chalet S9 haring made the descent in a n hour and fifteen minutes. Here the woman in charge served ub cafe au lalt with a generous supply of milk. On telephoning to the trem atatloa in the valley we found that the next tram down would not leave here until four o'clock eo we decided to walk down to the Teleferlque station, the way being along the rack and pinion rails. were I ever again to descend by this route I would have the guidea put the rope about me. I am pretty aura footed end do not get dizzy looking down from heights but on such a descent there is always the possibility of ones stumbling or meklng a misstep which here might heve sent one down preolplcee for hundreds of feet. The crushed stone ballast was rough and the steel tiea that it held was very elippery while the path along the outer aide of the rails was also very narrow and rough in places and slippery in other places for down here at this lower al tltude the enow bad beaoae rain. But we made the way down without a oddest--and the teiiferique landed ua at Les Houchea shortly after midday. Here we went into e hotel for lunch after which we boarded a bus that reached Chamonix at two o'clock. The Amerloan Ambassador to France is touring up bera in the Haute 3avoie and yesterday he arrived In Chamonix. Today being e fete day for Chamonix High Mass was celebrated out in the open before the church. The town wae deoked in flags and greens with the people out in their native 40 local costumes. This afternoon at three o'clock there was s parade through the alty. By that time I was enjoying a hot bath, for three days not haring enough water up In the mountains eren to wash my hands and face, we were fortunate In baring enough to quench our thirst so I had no complaints to make think.ing bow much better off I had been these past two days for drinking water than I had heen laat year going up the Mat. terbom for there la no water on that mountain and when our canteen was exhausted X suffered. I had a good rlew of the parade from ay window, yirst marched the Mayor and the officials of ths town, followed by a band of music and groups in old time oostuses. Than the enactment of some of the early climbs of Mont-Blanc mountaineers In strange olothes, roped together, followed by a series of floats depicting other erents in the history of Chamonix all of which passed between Unas of spprecla- tira crowds, many people haying oome in for the day from neighboring towns and Tillages. Then 1 turned in for e asp and on awakening to reed the Readers Digest for this month that bed Just reached Cbomlnx - the guides and porter haying gone to their homes and families to meet me tomorrow morning for our settlement and to make plana for the good weather that we hope for before the end of this climbing season. At dinner this evening I fell Into conversation with 241 Bome pleasant Eos 11 at people, a lira. Spenoe and her aon John Spenoe, Just out of Cambridge and about to enter tbe priesthood of tbe Anglican Chur oh. They live In Durban and ay Tlalt there of & year ego end ay admiration of Durban cathedral, the Castle and tbe old town in general started us on a pleasant conversation that lasted until bed tine. Monday. 15 September. 1946 - Hotel dea lies Brltaanique, Aix-les-Bains, Pranoe. Tbe rain continues this morning and it Is cold. I enjoyed a good rest last night. X went to the telegraph office to send a message to the hotel in Aix-les-Balns to reserve a room for me, then to the Alpine club Prancals to telce a membership that will reduoe my expenses In the Erenoh Alps, The refugee end ehalets on these high mountains are maintained by this club. Its members pay for aocomo- detion but non-members pay four times as much as members. Besides to be a member of the Club Alpine gives one a cer.tain standing among Alpinists that is an advantage. I am oountlng on returning here end making another attack on the mountain as soon as good weather comes. To the bank to cash soms travelers cheeks and at tan o'clock the guides and porters came to ths hotel and I settled my account with them all to everyone's satisfaction, my own included. There is a regular scale of fees for thess mountain olimbB established by the Association of Guides, the rates of whioh I had informed myself and to this I added * about eleven or twelve poroent as a good will boto. Furthermore wo planned: our next attempt. Alfred 1 to let me kno aa soon as It can be made. In talking with them yesterday they all wanted to take another route up - by way of Les Granda uulets and the Grand Plateau spending the night at the Refuge Tallot saying that possibly we may be able to obtain the toy of the observtore Tallot (Tery near the refuge} where we will ba more comfortable than in the refuge. Thia was a new auggestlon of theirs for when I suggested spending e night there on the route du Gouter they objected on account of the frlglty of the refuge Tallot that is oonatruoted of Duralneua. Further.more saying that during the war yeara the plaoe had fallen into a bad atata of repair. But I stood out Tor our going up by the route that we bad to abandon on this first attempt for I felt that this route would be easier ollmblng for me beoause the stages betwssn refuges on this route are shorter than wla the Grand Muleta and the altitudes between these refuges diminish as one ascends, thus giving me more oppor- tunlty to aoollmatlie myself to the altitudes with those altittdes requiring shorter climbs as we ascended. Further.more I suggested thst we take two porters Instead of one, in order that we be able to take more conveniences and supplies In oase we were atom bound again and be obliged to remain In one of the higher refugee (there are only three cabins on the Gouter route) and this pleased them, so we parted in happy anticipation of the final accomplish- 43 inent of the ascension. I had lunch at the hotel with Mrs. Spence and her son John. It seems thet she Is e photographer and she suggested taking some shots of me to whloh I acquiesced, stipulating that John pose with me. These should be pleasant souvenirs of this short acquaintance that I trust will continue. When we parted John asked me for my prayers on his behalf on the day of his ordination, September 26th, by the Archbishop of fork In Torkminster and I assured him that I would remember him on thet day. Somehow or other it Juat didn't work out In our con.versation, for me to speak with him about the Baha'i Faith, but thia I will try to negotiate by letter. He is a slnoere youth and I have hopes that our meeting that ap.pears to be a chance one will be the means eventually of giving him and hie mother the Saha'i Message. As 1 was taking a motor bus for Alx-les-Baina these friends were taking the funioulaire up Itontenvers to the Mer de alacs Glaoier. The motore route here was that that I traveled earlier in the season by way of St. Gervais-les-Bains, Megeve and over the high pass between Savoie and The Haute-Savole skirting the lakes of Anneoy then through the town of the same name. It wae a tormy and oold on the high pass but on descending the valleys on this side were in annligbt, and the country with its many Chateaux, villages and churches 244 was beautiful - ell in Tery strong contrast with the gorges and ruggeA mountains that were passed between Chamonix and. the peal that were properly speaking in the Haut-Savole. At the bus station here I was met by a motor from this hotel where I am now installing myself in the same room that I ocoupled whan here in June and Jttly. I'll miss Billy Owin's company, particularly at meals, but 1 have many letters to write and will be too buay to be lonesome. Tuesday. 1 September. 1848 - Hotel dea lies Britannique Aix-lea-Bains, Kra.ca. I turned In laat night soon after dinner and by nine o'clock this morning I called at Professor Sourdine's bouse to find it closed, so I imagine he has left here for the winter in Strasbourg. Z then went to Dr. Bleno'e office and made an appointment to see him this afternoon and after posting letters and doing soa. small errands shopping, returned to my room to write. After lunch 1 saw Dr. Bleno who treated me for e stiff neck earlier in the season. I was much Improved by the raw mud treatments he prescribed but not altogether cured of that trouble. He prescribed moro mud packa and the eame mud treatment for my feet that heye felt a bit benumbed and insensitive for this past year alnoe my activities in Zermatt last summer. The doetor Bald this comes from mr arches thag are fallen to some extent. They dont trouble me In any other way and this is hardly a trouble to an as yet but 1 don't want It to run Into something more serious. Ha took ay blood pressure, pulse and put his stethesoope on my heart and pronounced everything to be normal, x told tala about my kont-Blanc attempt. It seems thst he knows Chamonix and the people there and assured me that Alfred Couttet w.s as good a guida as I could flna. Furthermore he gave me eons pills that I should take - one - two or so If I should feel badly on a mountain climb. Then my afternoon "Gouter" et an Ice cream Patisserie Shop and the rest of the afternoon and the evening In my room reading end writing. Wednesday. 15 September. 1946 - Hotel dea Ilea Brltaanlque, Alx-les-Balns, France. An uneventful but e pleasant day. I was up by sunrise and at my dealt. Breakfast in my room at eight o'olock and shortly after nine o'olock was at the Bath establishment where I met Dr. Blanc who explained to the attendants about my treatments leaving me with them to give my neok and feet a hot mud peck treatment that lasted twenty minutes followed by e hot douohe after which I returned to my room and to the writing deak. After "Oouter" this afternoon I walked about the town for half an hour before returning to my room where I intend spending moot of my time *ile bere. I have muoh writing 846 It is a pleasure to be in so perfectly managed and appointed hotel os this one is, very reasonable in coat. Pension rate of a thouuand Francs a day or about #8.85 la Arnerioan money with a few taxes ate. added is very reasonable for a really first class hotel acooaodation in these days. Thursday. 16 September. 1948 - Hotel des lies Brittnnlque Aii-Lea-Bains, Tranoe. Tor my mud treatment at the Baths. Then to the bank and a stroll about the town and by eleven o'clock I was aettled at ay writing until lunch. As I was going out to my "Gouter" a telephone mess.age came from Alfred Couttet saying that the weether waa good for liont-Blanc ao X began to make arrangements to leave In the morning for Chamonix. I went to a sports shop and purchased a suit of long sleeved and long lagged heavy flannel all wool underwear and a long eleaved pull.over ewanter. These will serve me well on the high snow mountains that I hope to olimb. After dinner this evening I packed ay bags and now at ten o' clock I am writing and will soon be abed to make an early start In the morning. Friday. 17 September. 1948 - Hotel d'Angleterre, Chamonix, Trance. Here again in Chamonix, I find eutobue transit between Alx-les-Beina and here far easier and more pleasant than by rail. No changes nor trouble with luggage and at the 46 napped In ay room and met Alfred at fire o'clock to go to the Kpecerie to order prorlalona for our expedition. At my suggestion we will take a second porter, we will need muoh food and drink particularly In oasa we are storm bound again and I want to make the climb under the best conditions possible. We will start up at 8:45 In the morning going by the up to Montenvers, then on foot to les Grands Mullets. I went next to the sport shop to get the.hobnailed climbing shoes and crampons that I used before and to the hotel to do my packing. The chamber maid was working in my room when I reached there and had much to say about an excitement they had last night in the hotel. one of the guests, a man of sixty odd years went up Montenvers yeeterday alone to cross the Mer- de-Giace but when night had come he did not return. The three woman of his ranily party were In great agony of mind. Came ten oclock and nothing heard from inm so a search party of guides wes formed and sent out on the Gleolera to try to find him. At one o'clock they found him. He had crossed the gleoler, gone down over the Uauveiaa pas and waa somewhere in the Tlclnlty of the "chapeau" when darkness orer took him. Thera he sat himself down on a rook and when found waa calmly smoking welting to be resoued. This erenlng at dinner this man and his family were at the tahle next to mine. ho didn't appear to be the worse for his experience 249 of laat night. Just before dinner, I fell into conversation with some pleasant English people, a Mr. end Iff a. Milford end their daughter, a young girl of possibly seventeen or more and after dinner we have been chatting for some time. His grandfather fought in the Union Army in the war between the States in America as a substitute - a aort of soldier of fortune who later took up fela former realdence in England. Row .to arrange ay packing to start up the mountain to.morrow morning. - Chalet dea Grands Mulcts. Alfred couttet came this morning before eight o'clock and together we went to the Epacerie where we had amassed our stook of provisions. Here we were joined by Leon bring.ing with him in a bundle on his back of seven loaves of bread each about thirty lnohea in length that he handled in the Erenoh way much as If it had been eordwood, placing the bundle of loaves on the sidewalk in front of the shop along with the purchases laid out there. Then came Pierre and with him Hoger, the extra porter whom I suggested and who in reality was himself a registered guide. Here the impedimenta was divided Into four portions. The knapsacks were filled and we were ready to be off. At the Guides Bureau we were told that the teleferique running up from the valley to the Gare des GlsclerB, on the jay up the Dent de Midi was not running. Therefore we 250 took the rack end pinion railroad going up the Uontenvera to a point where there is a hotel looking down on the er- de-Glace from which point tourists crossing this glacier make their descent on to the ioe. This was the route that I took with ay parents and brothers and sisters in 1696 when we crossed the ker-de-Glace. That was before the railroad was built and we made this ascent by aule back. Here we stopped on the hotel terrece for coffee before setting out on the hike of several kilometers going west along a series of high mountain shoulders looking down to the right upon the Talley of Chamonix and on the left up at the peaks of Charmoz, Grepon, Bleitiers and others that towered above ua. The trail was well merged but rather rough in plaoes with a gradual upward trend. Just before reaching the rocky Arete on whloh is the Qare des Glaciers of the teleforlque line we crossed the email glaoier of Lea pelerine then up the steep rock wall of the Arete to the Gare near which was the Restaurant Chalet des Glaciers beyond and below which was the wide and long glacier des Bossons. Here we were served a meal and to our oonsternation learned that the teleferique line was running that day end a party at climbers had come up by that lino of communication. After our meal and an hours rest we descended the Arete along a downward trail to the glaoier going up the right hand side of the flow of ice to a point about on a level with that junction on the other aide of the glacier E51 noticeable from distanc by the number of high seraces (of loe) all piled In together - Alfred in the lead, then Pierre followed by me with Loon and Hoger bringing op the rear, in this order we crossed the Glacier des Bosaona. As I have noted all along there was rery good team work between thejaan. Alfred wae the leader but Pierre's Judgement guided Alfred quite as much as his own. There were many crevasses on this glaoier but by avoiding the most formidable of these end orosslng others here and there we made a tig tag course toward the Junction. The Junction was where two glaciers met. The Glaoier des Bosaona and the Glacier da Taceona. Here the opposing flows of these two greet masses of loe produce a forest of seraos (columns of ice) and a multitude of abysmal crev.asses extending down as far as the eye oould reach. Ice bridges here and there srosaed these crevasses. Those that we oroased seamed solid but some were very narrow, two or three feet wide others being not more than a foot in width with the oravasses much ea three meters or more in width. We moved very earefully and of course but one et a time. Alfred would go first, followed by Pierre and they would then breoe themselves with their feet well planted on the ice drawing the rope taut aa 1 proceeded in their foot steps. Fortunately looking down in crossing these narrow ice bridges with the deep cavernous crevasses on either aide did not make me nervous. in feat this had quite the opposite effect upon me. I felt exhilarated and re- oeired a great kick from the experience Just as I had enjoyed on the Rifflehora and the Matterhorn when 1 was on the heights looking down-hundreds and thousands of feet into apace below. I don't understand at all this psychological recation. By ell logic and reason I ought to have been paralized with feart It was I think tha rope attaching me to my guidea in whom I had absolute confidence that gave me this courage for 1 em sure without the rope I wouldn't dare to take a step and would have been In a sad plight of panic. The rope gives one confidence and makes him feel that he ie actually a part of the guides themselves. On crossing the Junction we continued on up over ice and snowflelds toward Les Brands Mulcts. Lea Grands Muleta are formations of high rocky points of mountains projecting out from the enow and ice that oover their bases that are imbedded deep down in the glaciers. They are called les Grand Mulets because from Chamonix they somewhat resemble a train of pack mules going up the glaolers. Higher up ia another but smaller formation of the same character end this is celled les Petits Mulets. After orossing the difficult plaoee at and near tbs Junction the ropen ware rearranged placing me between Alfred and Pierre with Leon and Bogor on another rope to allow the latter two to pro.ceed ua three up to the oabln on lea arand Muleta. They moved faster than 1 did and went ahead to prepare comforts at the cabin. It must have been after five o'clock when our group of three reached the rook wall of the peak on which the Grand Muleta cabin was perched high up aboTe the glacier. Driving the nadlea of our ice area or plota well into the anow and Reaving them there for the night, we climbed up the rock, aided in one plaoe by a wooden ladder and a long iron ramp attacbad to the rock, to the oebic, a one atory and half affair of timber. Here the portera had built a fira in a eookstove and had tea ready for us and were making preparations for aupner.' a cup of tee and I went up into the loft and to bed for an hour'a sleep after which Alfred came up to tell me that aupper was ready. By that time it was dark but we had oandleB among our supplies so there waa ample light. A good thick and nourishing soup and a mixture of sausages and vegetables out of a can with cheese, bread, hard boiled eggs and other foods teBted very good and for desert >a large cantaloupe waa cut and I had a couple of cups of hot ohooolste made with powdered milk. A I have noted before Leon was a good cook end we bed ample supplies for him to work with. It la surprising the heavy packa that these rugged mountelneere oarry and all with 254 apparent ease. It was about all I wanted to do to carry myaelf up orer these ateap snows and ice formationa. On a number of the latter the guides had to out steps in the ice with their ice axes. There at the cabin we were at an altitude of more than 5,000 meters. Between that and the exertion of climbing my pules was beyond normal but of oourae thla wee normal in itself and some time during tbe night I found my pulse down to its usuel count so j knew that I was ad.justing to tbs altitude. There wea a fall moon. 3ometime during the early pert of the night two youn English boys about twenty yeara I should Judge, came up into the loft and into tbe room diere I was, to oooupy the two other bede in the ohamber. They were full of energy and excited over the adventure. we chatted for a while then slept and 1 wee half awake and hardly oonecloue when they slipped out vary early before sunrise on their way up the snows with their guide. That must hare been about four o'clook. Uont-Blano is one of the most beautiful mountains of the world, unfortunately there are herdly any photographs of thia mountain that gira one an idea of its immensity. In the few pictures taken in very clear weather from Genera the mass of themountain towers out far above the surround.ing and buttressing Aretes that surround and lead up to end form the base of the mountain. In tha meny photographs taken from the Saint Gerraise 85 end Chamonix approach to Mont-Blano those mountains that buttras the greet mass o. the mountain in persp#t^> ive appear to he as high if not from some points of rlew higher, than Iiont-Blanc itself, for as one looks up at these nearby peaks they oompeto with and mask the great white mountain bohiud them. There Is an allure of adventure and romance in the ascension of this mountain, the glacial phenamine, thn dangers of avalanches of loo and snow, the many oavernous araveases that one must crosu on bridges of snow that are not always firm end particularly the danger of storm and fog whloh storms often oome with great suddenness rendering It difficult to find ones way down the Aretes end over the snow fields intersected by a labryntb of crevasses, Many of these oravassos are so covered with snow as to be Indistinguishable to any eye but thet of an experienced guide. All these and other dangers go to build up a spirit of adventure that is most exhilarating. Of course it would be suicide for any one but an ex- pdrlenced Alpinist to undertake going np Mont-Blanc without a guide and even the experienced guidea themselTes sometime are lost. In Chamonix one still hears the story of the loss of the Counte de Tlllanove with two of the most experienced guidea of the town in a storm that overtook them on the Grand Plateau on the route that I and ay guides followed. I noticed that Pierre of our caravan laoked the tips 856 of all of bla fingers on the left band. Xt looked as If they bad bea clipped off in a machine. Seeing me look at bia band be told me whet had caused it. Some years before he was caught out upon tbs mountain In a blizzard that came vrltb such suddenness that he found himself at some distance from any refuge and confused In a dense fog unable to find hie way. There waa but one thing for him to do. He burrowed out in a hole in the enow and Ice and crawled into It where he remained the night in e most miserable condition with the fingers of this hand frozen. The next day the atorm cleared and than he had no trouble in finding his way down the mountain, but the result waa the losa of the tips of those fingers. aunday. 19 epteaber. 1948 - Refuge Tnllot liont-Blenc Altitude 4,562 meters. I waa thoroughly awake this morning and thinking about the route of our caravan up liont-Blenc when Alfred came to awaken me at daybreak. The altitude of the ellab before ua today is about 1500 1.. end this seemed a good deal to me for one days climb end with no time nor place to atop for ones system to adjust to altitude and I feel that I may need this time for reat and adjustment. I was remembering the way I gare out lost year Just as I was about to reaoh the summit of the Matterhorn due to rorolng myself without sufficient time for acclimatization to the altitude. 257 In thinking over this matter it oocurred to me that our course might be changed from here to the Refuge Yallot by going by way of the alquille de Gouter and spending ona night there thus making this long climb in two days in.stead of one. Therefore when Alfred came in, I unfolded my plan to him together with my reasons. He did not seem nor appear to think badly of It but aaid he would talk with the other guides. By the:time I went down to breakfast they had come to the conclusion that they didn't like it. Said Roger "It la very dangerous going up the Aiguille de Gouter from this aide because of the many avalanches of mow and rocks". Whether that route was any mora dangerous than the one wa planned to take I bad no way of ascertaining. Furthermore he said the ohalat on the Aiguille was closed and the refuge there would be uncomfortable. I was in the hands of my guides so thought best to accept their wishes rather then oirry my point and probably disturb their moral# that was at ell times excellent, but the way things oame out event.ually I regretted that we had not gone by the Aiguille du Gouterl Our perty started upwards at about an hour after sun.rise. We were roped after descending to the snow below the rooher but I esked for a rope around me in making this desoent. I always feel safer on a steep rook descent with a rope about me although I am sure footed and don't recall ese ever baring lost my footing in climbing save in coming down steep pents in snow wben on rarlous occasions I*re upset end rolled orer in the soft snow. From the Orsnd kuleto until we reached the Refuge Tallot we were at all times in the snow. At first on leaving the Grand Mulcts we crossed several snowflelds orer ice. Alfred in the lead proceeded very ceutioaly studying the signs in the snow to avoid hidden erarasses. At several points he halted advancing slowly while Pierre stopped and held the rope ready to tighten it at notice. Alfred probing into the snow with the handle of hie loe axe. Where the snow covered a cravess ha would enlarga the hold in the anow disclosing a deep eavernoua depth. He would then probe along the edge of the cravaas to find solid loe that Mould bear his weight. None of tie sa cravassae were over thirty Inches in width and some were leas so they oould easily be Jumped first by the two guides in the lead - then by me followed by the porters. Then we came to a very long end steep pent of aoft snow over ice in places where occasionally steps had to be out at the top of which the snow covered a field known as the Petit plateau, a dangerous looking sheet of anow and loe sloping upward as we progressed and strewn here and there with huge blocks of loe and snow, Seraos that bad slid down from the mountains above. The paths of some of these more recent avalanohee could still be traced in the markings on the soft snow. 59 We pressed on toward th next long and steep pent that wes muoh In it a character like the one leading up to the Grand Plateau. As we were starting up this incline we encountered the two British boys coining down with their guide. One of them was almost as white as the snow about ua. He was suffering from mountain sickness and could not continue the climb. This mountain sickness is a malady that many sucumb to and ate obliged to get themselves down into lower alti.tudes as soon as possible. It la accompanied with nausea and appears to effect one something such as does sea sick.ness. while climbing and exercising in high altitudes I get winded and sw obliged to atop frequently to get my breath but I have never experienced this nmuntein sickness. After a long and tedious ollmb up this steep pent we arrived at the Grand Plateau from where we oould see above and s little to the right the Talliot Observatory and near it the Talliot Reruge oabln, the letter constructed of Duralaneum shining in the sunlight like e bright flame. It was now about noon so we sat ourselves down on the snow end had a light lunch from the pecks. The Grand Plateau different from the petit Plateau was free and safe from avalanches. After an hours rest we continued on. up to the right of the observatory and by another long pent found ourselveB at the Col du Gouter between the Dome du Gouter on the right and the Obsorvetory on the left. 260 Both the Observatory and the refuge cabin are perched on the tops of needle like peaks that pieroe upwards through the deep snow and Ice that have been accumulating here throughout geological ages of time. A short climb up over the steep rocks brought us to the Observatory, a building built of timbers and covered with a tarred substance. Here Leon produoed the keys that he had procured from the house of the oustodian in St. Oervais (the Ob- aervatory is government owned) but to the consternation of everyone of us it was dlSooTarad that the wrong keya had been given Leon end instead of the keys to the Obser.vatory he hed the keys of the chalet on the Aiguille de Gouter over five hundred meters below us and at eome dis.tance on the horizontalt There was nothing to do but climb down onto the enow then climb up to the nearby refuge cabin that I have re.ferred to. Perched high up on the Jagged points of the rocher in pert on stilts, we crawled up the rocks under.neath the floor of the cabin going by a ladder that took ua up through a trap door into the interior. For the aoat part theae high mountain refuges are kept in a fairly good condition by the Alpin clubs and by the climbers who use them, for it is en unwritten lew that one must clean up any debris and fold up the blankets leaving the place in as good a condition ae possible- And 861 thle formality ie usually carefully adhered to. There la a fee for occupancy that, for the very high refugee where there la so guardian, e paid at the Ouldee Bureau down In Chamonix. Built about ten yeera ago and looking from without new and to be in good oondition the Interior of the refuge preaented a oat discouraging prospect for a algbta reat. There was ample evidence of both reoent and past oooupanoy. The floor was quite covered with litter of various des.cription, mostly scraps of food. There were but few matt.resses on the twenty four bunks sad the blankets were tumbled up and piled about while there who dirt everywhere. Pierre was the one of our party who Beamed to take It the hardest "quel Balete, quelle oochonnerle" was his ex.clamation I Turning to me ha said "We oan't spend the night here, we will all be sick. Let us go down to tbe Chalet du Gouter for which Xeon has the keys. There we will be comfortable", "Ro" X replied, "Itont-Blanc Is in the other direction end we must stlok to our course".. Well tbe situation had to be accepted eo everyone aet out to make the beat of it. Leon had tea ana hot chocolate very ahortly after which I turned into ay bunk for a reat. I was tired end waa feeling the altitude with my pulae up to over one hundred. On the climb up from lea Grand Muleta It had baan 62 so bat ia the sun that l bed bad to take off my Jacket sweater, but here I began to feel the cold. Pleree was dlaooureglng over the temperature telling me that it would go down considerably below zero when darkness oamo. This startled me until on second thought I realized that he was thinking in degrees centigrade while ay first re.action when he mentioned zero was farenheight. Rolled up in several blankets with two mattrosses beneath me to keep the oold from penetrating from below, 1 was soon resting comfortably end slept until I awoke with a smothering sensation. The cabin wae fillad with smoke. Leon had built a fire in tbs stoTe from some wood fuel found in the cabin end the flue was out of order. The only thing to do was to air the pleoa out and stand the sold. He bad in bis pack an aloohol heater with a supply of essenca so we made out a hot supper that tasted .ary good. In climbing I em seldom very hungry save as I reach the bottom end of the olimb, but I sm always thirsty. Tbs guides were ever disoournging ay drinking snow wster (there waa no other water) saying that it was very bad for one and that it would make se siek. I came back at them say.ing that I had drunk liters end liters of it with never any bad reeults so they let me have ay way. By sundown we were all settled for the night, it having been decided that we would stert up st eight oclock 865 la the morning. At some time after midnight I awakened by hearing the trap door entrance to the oebln being opened and severel voices talking voluably In Italian. It was a group of severe1 ollmbers arriving from Italy. They remained for several hours but were gone when I awoke at about sunrise. I didn*t see them again. I don't know In whloh direction they were bound. This Refugs Yalllot being the highest cabin on the mountain can be approached from several routes and dlractlone both from France and Italy. When one i s up here In these high Alpine altitudes It is as if one had been taken from the world that we live In and placed away ofr somowhere In a different and an unknown universe. Although these mountains are en- oircled end surrounded by this world of modern times this isolated aeotion of hlgb mountain peaks and glaciers La as If a section of e glacial age of eons of time ego had been left here lntaot by nature that.we of this age, who penetrate Into this world of rooks. Ice and glaciers, might have a glimpse Into e glacial period of the geolog.ical ages of the past. Upon this Alpine heights one reallzee how thin la this sea of air in which we live end breathe, on which our life depends. Almost infinitely thin in comparison with the size of our earth'. Few of us could live for very long et a height of five miles above level. 254 When I was In the Andes of Peru and Bolivia - up in places three miles above sea level, it was all I oould do to walk up grade for any distance without stopping to get my breath and it was the same in climbing stairs. At three and a half miles altitude flying across the Andes almost everyone on the plane was taking oxygen. Resting easily and relaxed in a reolinlng chair seat and breathing deeply I did not feel the need of oxygen and did not .take any but had I been making any physical effort at that altitude and without oxygen, in all probability I would have suddenly lost consciousness. These these thoughts In mind one marvels at the regularity of the earths surface that gives us so even e layer of sir and So well distributed over the entire surface of our glove, for it is only in a very few places, and in very, very small areas in comparison with the superficial area of oar planet, that the earth's surface reaches out to a point where our atmosphere is not thick enough to support man in his normal activities of life. One oan maka a similar observation about the depth of the aeaa. i understand that seven miles is the deep.est known of aaa soundings so here the actual exactitude of the earth's earth on solid spheroldity is precticall, or almost that of a perfeot spheriod. Row standing on these mountain tops looking off over the world I have a feeling that should any sudden 265 geological ohange ever take place to alter the solid surface of the earth to any considerable extent, that life on those parts that are non lnhabitated that in the change either bulged out or Indented into the present contour of the planet, would in the oase of a considerable bulge, suffocate life on those bulging areas for want of oxygen, while over those sreas that Bight be greatly de.pressed below our present sea lerel, the seas would flow in to wipe out all land life! I here reed recently of scientists who predict that the now Increasing ice cap of the Antartlc will in tine so ohenge the present position of the center of gravity of the earth as to oause a radical shifting of the axis of revolution of the planet, thus causing great modifica.tions in the earth's surface, causing aeas to flow over lands now high and dry and eauBing Ooean bottoms to arise above sea level forming new continents. All this thought takes me baok in thought to the pil.grimage that Howard Struven and X made to the Holy Land In the month of Kay 1610. (We were then on a world tour of Baha'i taaohlng and so far aa I have been able to ascertain we were the first two Baha'i3 to encircle the globe on euoh a mission)- Some of the friends in America had figured out from certain prophesies in the Book of the Prophet Daniel thet the date 1917 wes one of importance In the fulfillment of 66 old testament predictions and one of these friendb had ashed me to question the Master AM'ul Baha about the matter. One afternoon at tea time I put thla question to the Master. Mirza Monaer zene, sone of Jenabl Zane we Interpreting. Beplled The Master "After 1917 there e coming a very great catastrophe in the world".. Sald. I "Something like this explosion of rrakatoa In the RtrAits of Suhda, the Martinique disaster or the Eruption of Mt. Aetna and the Me3aina Disaster?" Replied The Master "Suoh events occur often end will continue to ocour, but in comparison with these the com.ing Great Disaster they will be as nothing. As in times past there have been great changes that have wiped out and obliterated whole peoples, civilizations and all records thereof leaving no traces, bo thla Great Disaster shall be.* HerB.Tho Master did not seem disposed to talk further. Not.withstanding this, questioned I "Will this come to pass soon after 1917 or will it be in the distant future?" Replied the Master "Neither, simply some time after that year". Still wishing more information I quoted the passage from the Book of Nelmlah of the Old Testament wherein it is written that "The Shepherd shell be struck and two thirds of the sheep be slain" asking If this applied to this Great coming Disaater. The Master replied that it did*. 267 Several or the oMr Believers of Haifa were present at this Interview and efter the Master hed left the room they all said that they had never before heard Kim apeak of this. After this Interview I wrote a detailed statement of it and that was circulated among the Believers. This caused much talk and comment. Mrs. ills t Nash, Bahai, who claimed to have moments of prophetic vision aesured me that when this Great Disaster came I would be In Hawaii and that while certain other parts of the world would sink and become inundated, Hawaii would rise and become the center of a New Continent. While I have no reel faith In Mrs. Nash'a prophesies, nevertheless I often think of this that she told me'. Naturally I wonder what It is all about? And when I read of such theories es the one I mention about the Aat- erctlve loe cap, I wonder still more about It all. I even wonder sometime whether en atomic chain reaction might cause this Great Disaster, but these are all questions coming to my mind that I do not even attempt to solve. But when I stand now on these high Alps looking out over the normal world below, I think of what the Master Abdul Baba told me of this coming Great World Disaster. Monday, eo September. 1946 - Les Granda Mulcts Cabin At eight o'clock this morning, having managed to get my feet into my boots that had frozen stiff during the 268 night and having breakfasted, we five in turn went dm through the trap door and down the rocks on to the snow. Here the guidea adjusted the ropes end we strapped crampons on over our boots, for upward fro* here the snow was no longer soft but frozen. In climbing up a steep pent in soft snow one jabs the toe of his foot Into the snow with a alight downward movement pecking the anow below the ball of the foot, so that it makes a firm etep. In somo placea where the snow is very thin on the ice or where there is nothing but ice It is necessary to out steps. In ooming down a soft anow pent one digs his heels into the snow and the packed down snow beneath the heel makes a firm step. But where there is frozen snow and iee peats to mount or to descend ereiopons are neoeeeary. These are steel frames that fit over sole of the shoe with slender spikes an inch or more in length that give one a firm foot.ing on the ioe. It was a very clear day with a stiff wind blowing from the north. For the first time on the climb I put on my tacul over my sweater, a heavy windproof Jumper Jacket with a hood oovexing the head all but the face, yesterday and the day before while on the snow and ice we all wore our smoked goggles. Before leaving the refuge this morning I smeared ay feco liberally I thought, with a cold cream mix.ture that Alpinists use as a protection from sunburn. we 269 were getting up into altitudes where the atenio rays o. the sun are too strong .or my tender skin. The guides were tanned and burned and they required no other protec.tion that their own skins, thickened by long exposure. We didn't have far to go before we struck the long and ateep pan going up tha Grand Bosse. Here I began to feil the altitude more than on the latter part of yea. terday's asoent. During the night my pulse wiint down to normal ao that I felt quite sufficiently acclimatized for today's climb, but as we toiled up the Grand Boas# I had to stop a number of times to get enough air to oontlnue. This procedure seemed to work very well for with a few moment's rest and the very exhilerating air I was energized and ready to continue the olimb. The top of the dome of the Grand Bosse reached there was a slight descent before we reached the next steep pent going up the Petit Bosse and so we continued on up end over the dome of The Petit Bosse where we began the climb to the upper part of the mountain. Here Z bad to make my rest periods more frequent. The guidea were very cooperative about it all. I would olimb eight, ten or twelve steps, then throw myself down exhausted, but after two minutea or so would be feeling quite 0.1, again to oontlnue for s few more steps. It was simply a matter of getting enough oxygen into my lungs to keep me going, icy heart was thumping to be sure but other* 70 wise I felt allright and not disoouraged. But ell this time the wind from the north was rising more and more and the guides didnt like this. we went upoend up, until we were et the Roohers de la Tournette, islands of rook as they seemed arising in the snow and ioe. In reality these are the high needle points of peaks en- mossed in snow and ioe with just the peaks visable. From here on up the mountain 1b all sn ice cap the summit of whioh is a snow arete that from below as seen from the east or west has the proportions of e knife edge. liont-Blene as seen from the north or from the south looks like a broad and ample dome. This is the view that one has of the mountain from Genera, that I hare described. I also recall the Tiew from Coeurmeyer in Italy that gives very mch the same effect of an enormous dome. But last summer from near the summit of the Matterhorn, I was sur.prised when my guides pointed out to me Mont-Blano. Here I wns looking at it edgewise from the east. I didn't rec.ognize it at all. It was high, yes, but of inslgniricsnt mass, merely an arete seen edgewise with a very steep side toward the North and with a more sloping one to the south. There we stood in the ioe at a little distanoe above the Ilets de la Toururette, the highest rock points on the mountain with the ioe above us that narrowed down on top to the arete of snow that was the crown of the mountain. The wind was now blowing a hurricane from the North that 271 we could scarcely stead up gainst. I am not easily dis.couraged, but before tbe guides told me tbet we couldn't attempt going further in the face of that wind I realized the impossibility of continuing. V.e had no view of the Monte Rosa ohain and other mountains to the east for this was all shut off by tbe mountain itself. But off to the south, west and north-,-, the eye reached into Tast distances. The Italian peaks to the south were unfamiliar to me but those in the Bernese oberland and farther North, I knew. The Schilthorn, The Faulhorn, the Niesen, Pilatus, the Eigl, the Rosberg, all mountains that I had climbed, while nearer we looked down on the Dents du Midi the snow covered peaks of which axe so often used as a background for the many photographs of the castle of Cbilon on the East end of lac lemon. Almost the entire length of that lake was opread out before us. Suoh were the pieces below where we stood, but my thoughts were on tbe mountain above. I thought it was the moat beautiful sight I had ever seen, the pure whiteness of the ice arete against the deep blueness of tbe sky. The arete was wide where we stood but narrowed as it reached up into the sky. It seamed as if we were standing on the baok of a rainbow that had been eolidified into ice end snow. There we were looting up this crystal white bridge that extended up into the firmament and disappeared'. There we five stood in s huddle with the ropevabout znz us bolding on to one soothers sboulders to keep from being blown off Into space. Prom tbe knife edge of tbe arete forming tbe summit of tbe mountain the slope dropped off to the Preach side precipitously on the* Italian side it sloped at a less steep eagle. I bed reed in a guld book that the top of the arete wss but tbrbe or four meters in width. Alfred and Pierre said it was narrower than that in plaoes and tbat in such e wind could not be negotiated. Bad it not been necessary for me to throw myeeif down so often to get my breath I might have made the summit of the arete but its width wss too narrow for such manouvera on my part - only wide enough in, places to fire standing piece for a man on his feet and even this would have been perilous in the face of the very strong wind that was blowing. So here ended our climb. I addressed the groups "lies comarades de montagne, lies Chere3 Amis; Tou have done your utmost and I have done my utmost and we oan go no farther. Tbe only thing for us is to retrace our stapa down to Chamonix. I eppreeiate more than I can tell you, your efforts and the spirit in which you have served me and I am most content".. So we turned and filed down on the ice retracing our steps in the reverse order that we had come up. I have found the descant of a rock ollmb to be more difficult than the aeoent, particularly where the rock 273 wall Is very steep. The difficulty is on account or finding the footing ledges, as one steps down but here OTcr the ice and snow pents which form most of the way up oTer the route that we have been following the descent was very easy. In either case going down over rooks or in snow ones breathing Improves with each downward move, since one la constantly receiving more oxygen. on reaching the rocks on whioh the Tallot Refuge was perchedy 1 removed my orampona end the guides went up into the cabin for their pacha that had been deposited there. In crossing the Grand Plateau some time in between one and two o* clock we stopped for a bite of cold food. Now and then there was a cravasa to be oroased but no wide ones that could not be stepped over or jumped. Coming down over the long and ateep penta of soft snow I toboganned down on the seat of my trousers that fortunate.ly I had had reinforoed with water proof canvas and in-, eulsted with an extra thlotaess of cloth as lining. Roger and Leon towed me down the aloes by the rope, the rope in the hands of the other two guides in the rear acting as a break on my descent. Since the guidea were more fleet of foot in the enow then I waa tbia method accelerated our progress. Apparently so far as we could see there hod been no sizable avalanches of SerBOs on the Petit plateau 274 .Ince we had croaked It yesterday morning. it wbb sometime between four and five o'clock that we reached the foot of the rochers of the Grande kulets on which the refuge oabin atood where we hed spent the night before last. The guides were for continuing on to the Chalet des Glaolera assuring me that there I would find a bed with sheets to sleep between but I was tired and the prospect of the nearby bunk with blankets affording more Immediate repose appealed to me so we all climbed up to the cabin eboTe. Leon had tee ready shortly after whloh I turned In. I was tired and cold to the point of shivering so took e couple of eaperin tablets and a hot toddy that Alfred mixed with some brandy from his flask and after an hour or so I felt tetter although not after a time of general de.pression . as i thought of my disappointment et not reach.ing the orest of the arete on the summit I all but ehed a few tears. An hours sleep put me into better shape both physically end mentally. It was about sunaet when two American youngsters came up Into tha loft to occupy the other plecee in the room where I was. One by the name of Harper from Denver, the other named .unkhouaer, e former Andorer student with a large A on hie sweater and lately Just hawing finished his first year in architecture at Harvard. They were 675 pleasant ana enthusiastic boys and with them was a young guide from Chamonix named Tictor with whom they were haring a problem communicating in French. They bad come up from Chamonix and oounted on making the summit of the mountain tomorrow by a Tory early start in the morning by moonlight. We did a good deal of talking and I found that the boy from Denver was a next door neighbor of mf old Baha'i Friend, George Nathaniel Clark. He had heard of tha Cause. It waa seven o'clock when Alfred came up to tell me that dinner waa ready. By that time my appetite was returning and I waa pleasantly surprised to find hot soup, grillsd chateaubriand steaks and other good things ending up with the last melon from Alfred's pack. These neatly trimmed smell steaks - ten in number, Leon produoed from his paok and grilled them very well over the ambers of a wood fire in the oook stove. We had two steaks each. It was two o'olock in the night when the American boys and their guide victor pulled out. Aroused by their movements I was but a short while getting back to sleep. As I lay there In contemplation of my experiences of the past three days up here in this realm of ice, cold and snow that sustains no life of any description and whore man can only penetrate by packing with him the pro.tection and sustenance required for his short stay in this realm, the thought came to my mind of the immensity of 276 tb massive of Mont-3 lone and of this great natural testimonial of the greatness of Gods creative power* and of the awe that It produces on one even as he looks upon It, not to mention tries to scale ltt So muob for this great mountain of Inanimate matter. Then I thought of the mountains of Palestine that I bad climbed, very much smaller mountains, if they could really be called mountains? In other parts of the world these would be considered but ss hills and but smell hills at that, but when 1 thought of the happenings upon those sacred mountains, the revelations and the tragedies that had taken place there and the effect of these upon man.kind, his history and his civilisation and life in this world and in those to come, I realized the greeter impor.tance of these smaller mountains over even the greatest physical peaks of the world, for those mountains of the Holy Land were associated with the Eternal Spiritual life of man and with his ultimate destiny in this world and the world to come. At that moment came to me the outline for a series of three leotures of a pupular appeal intro.ductory to and explanatory of the Baha'i World Faiths I. The Great Mountains of the World. II. The Orest Temples of the world and III. The Greet Religions of the World. Then for the greeter part of the night my thoughts oame rapidly, one after another filling out this outline 877 until I had worked out in mind a presentation of a? faith that I felt prepared end ready to give to any aud.ience using my experience in the mountains end ay knwwledge of architecture to attract people to the point of listening to the story of my pilgrimage to hhe Holy Land and The Message of The Bahai Revelation that has gone forth from Palestine to all parts of the world. This series of three lectures I planned to he illus.trated with pictures of mountains, temples and of activi.ties of the Behal*Faith. It was in the aaell hours of the night when I fall asleep. Tuesday. 21 September. 1948 - Hotel dAngleterre, Chamonix, France. Dp at daybreak and after breakfast we started down the glacier toward the Junction maintaining our formation of yeaterday afternoon. As we were starting we met the two American boys with their guide Victor ooming down briskly. wThey had been overcome with mountain sickness for which the only cure le to oome down into lower altitude. I dont know what altitude they reaohed? At the Junotion there had evidently been some move.ment of the ice since we passed that way three days before for ona of the ice bridges thet we had orossed had broken through end the guides had to reroute our caravan by s different way thet took us up over a very large area where seps had to be cut, then down on the other side where des- 278 csnding steps had to be out. Boger who was long in bis arms end legs cut the steps on the descent by reach.ing down on to it 8nd repeating the operation until ar.riving at a level ledge at the bottom alongside of e deep cravasse. He was followed down by Leon who held the rope at.tached to me while I descended while Pierre backed by Alfred paid out at the other eDd of ay rope. once pessed the junction the way across the Glacier des Boesons was made with, comparative ease and we found ourselves climb.ing tbe rock well on the other aide by a well marked trail that brought us up to the Cafe des Glaciers near the tel- eferique station of the line going down into the valley of Chamonix. Here at the chalet we topped for ooffee and a chat with the keeper and his wife - a very pretty woman who ran the place. Some days before they had shot a Marmot, a mountain animal that looked something like the woodchuoks that we have in America. Its skin with fur was outstretched on a board outside the Chalet. It was about thirty inob.es in length and its paws looked something like monkey's hands. The keeper of the ehelet had pickled the meat and he offered me Some, Had I not seen those paws that had such a human look I might have eaten some of it, but as it was I didn't want any. The guides pronounced it to be excellent eating. Tbe teleferique was suppossd to be out of running for 279 repairs but es one of the workmen on the line was going from there down to the halfway station on the way to the Talley, a fee passed to him took our party down to the half way point with the understanding that we were to say nothing about the matter in Chamonix, so we crowded Into the oar that resembled a huge bird cage and were shortly swinging high up through the air oxer the tree tops down to the half way station. From the half way station It was quite a walk yet to the floor of the Talley. We were Just half the way down and oyer the worst half too for the upper part of the way waB mostly oxer e rooky morrain deposit of boulders and loose stones while the lower part of the mountain was of this aame basic structure, but here with a coxarlng of earth trees and undergrowth through which the trail zig.zagged down. On the valley level we stopped at an attractive res.taurant chalet where we relaxed about a table set under some trees. Here It was warn and oomfortable and era long a good beefsteak dinner was served to wblch we did Justice. When we started out on our expedition of four days I had provided two dozen hard boiled eggs. But the guidea seemed to prefer sausage (that I myself detest) so I think I was the only one to eat these eggs. we must have had over a dozen of these in one of the paoks when we readied the velley. I looked into the pack- There they were and Iq a most dilapidated condition, but the woman running tha chalet peeled end alloed them with tomatoes and made ua a very good salad. It seems that it la the local ouatom for a party of climbers on coming down from Mont-Blano to drink to one another's health before parting. I therefore ordered a bottle of champaign. Pouring out a small teaapoonful for myself I filled the other glasses, whereupon the guidea with one accord objeoted to my not taking more myself. There.upon X explained to them that my religion did not admit of the social drinking of aleohollcs, so I was taking Just a teste of It with them to assure them of my good fellowship and oomaraderle. This they accepted in the spirit that I wanted as we clipped our glasses together but they said quite frankly that they thought it was a very strange re.ligion that forbade the drinking of perfectly good champaign. Leaving this rural chalet restaurant we walked the short dlatenoe Into the town of Chamonix passing the statues of de Sausaaure amt his guide cauttet who made one of the first ascensions of Kont-Blanc In 1787. Here we stopped before the statue end lifting our ceps shouted "de Sausaaure et Couttet nous vous Saluons" then we passed on to a photographer'e etudlo for I wanted a photograph Of the group as a souvenir. We were Indeed m tough looking outfit, unshaved and unwashed for four days. Such Is life on the glaciers nd in the snows. We were fortunate In having sufficient water to drluk. To this hotel where I enjoyed a shave end a hot bath bed e nap end by dinner time felt much rested but was ready to take to my bed again shortly after the meal. In these days the world lives under a psychological stress and strain that was unknown a eouple of generations ago. Hot only are Individuals a prey to anxieties, fears and frustrations hut national groups large units of the worlds* people are as well subject to mass byeteria. As nations now-a-days attack other nations psychologically trying to terrorize them and destroy their morale, so the individual is liable to bedevilment at any time by any rogue who may coma along and bring a nuisance suit against him that will drive bio almost crazy until he may be forced to a compromise in order to avoid the mental torture that this bfought upon him. Bader these conditions the Increasing amount of mental ill health about us is not surprising. Dfcder the strain of the conflict of daily life many are oracking up emotion.ally end going to pieces causing mental suffering to many others. Therefore it should be the thought of everyone to keef himself in as good mental and emotional health as possible. This every man-owes to himself, bis family and hie friends. But one might ask "What has this to do with mountain climbing?" I say that mountain climbing is an antidote aad a cure for mental stress, anxiety and frustration. Who ever beard of a mountain climber having emotional trouble or mental depression?" As a group, mountain climbers bare excellent healthl To be sure mountain climbing is an obsession, bat it is an active and an agresaive obsession that leads to action and accomplishment and with this comes the satis.faction that normally nourishes the ego and straightens out ones mental kinks and tangles, and gives him balance and poise of nerve and assuranoe. Especially does moun.tain climbing bring to one an assured satisfaction - some.thing that nothing can take from one - a possession that Is actually his own'. There is a certain personal pleasure In owning some.thing. Something perhaps that comparatively few others possess. A few years ago if one had a piece of property or a bank account he felt at ease and assured that these were his own property, but now-a-days between Inflation, high riaing taxes and fear of the atomic bomb that former assurance of and dependence upon material wealth is dis.appearing. With the increase of the psychose# and anxieties that these conditions bring upon ua, those who are wise will seek to substitute mental and moral treasures and satisfac.tions in order to balance and to enrich life that has under these and other conditions that affect us emotionally mede it more' and more difficult a problem. It ta assolvent for such problems of life that I recommend and prescribe mountain climbing. It will eure troubles that materia medloa can not reach* For ordinary mountain climbing but two requisites are necessary. Fixity of purpose and endurance, the amount of tha latter necessary depending upon the size of the mountain. Bouyancy of spirit comes to one as one reaches the heights, the result of.-one'a perseverance. The average mountaineering does not cell for athletic power now kill. Often those without these here an endurance that serves them even to better ends than those who win athletle contests. As a boy I was never able to do in gymnealum nor on the athletic field what many of the below-the-average boy oould do but fortunately for mc I had an endurance that many of my superiors in braun end musole did not have and this en.durance has served me weH.throughout life for whloh I am thankful. While a climber naturally wanted to tackle and conquer the great mountains of the~7World, this is not necessarily the goal required to give one the satisfaction and pleasures that mean so much to the mountaineers. one sterta forth on a fine day with his mind fixed upon a certain point to be reached - not necessarily a very high point but one that can be reached without straining or exhaustion. E strikes .a slow hut steady end rythmic gate, stopping from time to time as the mood strikes him to enjoy the view or to take measure of his progress or to rest. As he nears his goal his spirits rise and on reaohlng the point aspired to his enjoyment is at its height. He has accomplished something of no value to anyone else hut to himself for he experiences thet satisfaction that for the moment makes him master of thet whioh he set out to accomplish. It is the sum total of such seemingly smell and unimportant accomplishments that make a full and rounded out life. The one who eooustoms himself to climb.ing even small hills once forming,the habit of reaching the summit will be led to conquer the other problems of life in like manner by sticking to the Job until it is finished. This and other things, mountain climbing has done for me. ffedneadey. 22 September. 1948 - Hotel dee Ilea Britannigue Aix-les-Baina, France. I rested well lest night but several days of rest will be needed to bring me back to normal. I fsel stiff end sore - particularly on my face that was burned by the sun* s ray a In spits of the cold oroam that I thought I was apply.ing generously. My first move after broakfest was to return my rented climbing boots and crampons, then go to the French 8snk to cash cheoks for settlement with the guides, the four of whom came to the hotel at half past ten. There is a reg.ular schedule of fees for guidea and portores established by the Society des Guides and wo figured out how much I owed them on that basis. Although Leon is not yet regia- 285 tered bs a guide In reality he did a guide'a work on this expedition, although Roger Is a registered guide hut was engaged as porter he also did a guide's work. Therefore I calculated both of their fees on the beels of guides. Then because of their remarkable service to me so cheerfully and kindly rendered I told them I wented to double their established fees. This seemed to please them very much end it pleased mo too to do this . That spirit of comaraderio that has always character^ lzed the groups of Frenchmen with whom I have been intim.ately thrown In my residence in France was ae strong and kind among these rough uncouth mountaineers as It bad been among the students oomarades at the Ecole dee Beeux-Arts. For these past days up in the snows and on the glaolers my life had depended on their technique and strength. Dader such conditions men of widely different oultures ana call.ings in life are very closely drawn together end ties are formed that may never gein be brought into the play of this life but which can never be forgotten. As we walked out of the hotel on to the terrace the English people. Hr. and Mra. Malford, Miss Watson and Miss Medcalf were there with their careres and asked to take our photographs so the five of us grouped up for the ehots. I hope they will come out weel and that I will receive coplee that I oan have reproduced for such will add much interest attached ^to this dally diary. After parting with my guides there was no reeeon for 286 me to romein longer In Chamonix here the hotel wee not comfortable nor well appointed nor well serviced so 1 decided to make a quick more beck to Aiz-les-Baine to this Hotel des lies Britannlque where at no greeter expen.diture then in Chamonix I would have perfect service and thoroughly first class food and sooomodatioa. Leaving Chamonix at three o'clock by train I reached here by eight o'clook and wee met at the station by the hotel motor in responee to e telegram aent. Reaohing the hotel in time for dinner I decided to luxurlete o had dinner served in my room, a very rare luxury for me. Wednesday. 2 September. 1948 - Hotel des Ilea Britannlque Aix-les-Balns, France. An off day of resting, reeding and doing a little writing. I am still sore and touchy ell over and my faoe is out of Joint with my llpe so stiff and puffed out that in eating I am awkward in getting the food into my mouth. I did a little shopping about town and wee on my way to aee Dr. Blanc when I chanced to meet him on the street. He advised my continuing the mud packs for my neok and feet. This hotel closes on the 30th of this month, so ay time here is limited. The mountain climbing has taken the stiffness out from my neck musoles, but ha3 increased the benumbed oondltion of my feet. A letter from Ktty Graeffe tails me there are letters awaiting me in Geneva, and es I have business to attend to 287 there and as I long to see the Bahai Friends, I plan an early start In the morning by motorbus to spend the day In Genera. Friday. 24 September. 1948 - Botel dss Ilea Brltannique Aix-les-Balns, France. Coffee In ay room at half peat fire oclock this morning and at aeren o'clock I wea aboard the autobus, leaving Aix for Genera arriving there shortly after ten o'clock. The day was fine and the countryside of 3avoie beautiful. our route took us through the picturesque old town of Annecy with Its medieval chateaux and churches on the hills surrounding the town as well as on the lake. From here our route lay through the mountains where at about one third of the way to the Swiss Frontier the road crossed a deep canyon In the bills by a fine new re.inforced concrete bridge paralleling an old suapenslon bridge no longer used for vehicular traffic. Here we stopped for fifteen minutes and walked out upon this old bridge. Built in 1839 it was to me a marvel of construc.tion. Twin round battlamented towers on either end - each pair linked together by a heavy stone aroh through whlob the roadway passed, carried a series of steel cables that on either end beyond the towers were anchored by great messes of masonry. It mil seemed to be In very good con.dition. Two customs examinations, one lesving France the other on entering Switzerland of our luggage and our fin.ances and shortly we were in Geneva. 380 X went immediately to the Bahai Bureau where I met Etty Qraeffe end where letters awaited me. It sensed very good to be back again at this Bahai center. I then went about town and did some business, Etty identi.fying me at the American Express Company and endorsing a cbeok that I might have more fuhda. Then at one oclock Etty met me for lunch at the little restaurant on the terrace near the Cathedral. In the afternoon I hsd mor running about to do In.cluding going out to the palais das Rations to the lib.rary there to look u? a book. That building is a mag.nificent modem pile of efficient though somewhat to my mind brutal architecture. Everything is large and ample about it but tbe place is almost deserted save at specie 1 times, such as last May when for a few days conferences are held there. Alas the nations are trying every material and psyohological means for bringing about world peace, all but the spiritual plan of the ages that has culminated in the Revelation of Beheo'lleh. Men ere trying to create world peace whereas the Revealed Religions down through the ages teach ua that in these latter days Cod would es.tablish His Kingdom upon Eartht Man cannot accomplish this. At tea time I was again at the Bahai Bureau to find Ogo Glnohery there. After visiting the Behei centers in ~ several of the European centers, he flew down from Paris today on his way to Roma. We had a wary pleasant talk before 1 had to hurTy on to take ay hue back here to Aix- lea-Balns. I regretted not being able to remain oyer for the meeting tonight at Whioh Ugo will apeak to the Friends. I reached the hotel here at half past eight o'clock after the trying and slow foimelities that stalled the bus for over an hour at the frontier. When will man do away with these Rational Frontiers that are eo enslaving the people? Saturday. 25 September. 1948 - Hotel dea lies Britannique Aix-les-Beins, France. This morning for e mua treatment, then about town end to the hotel to write letters, i sent a telegram to John Spence, the English boy whom I met with his mother in Chamonix. Be is being ordained Deacon tomorrow by the Archbishop of York and he naked me for my preyers. it? Message was "Holding you in thought and prayer tomorrow".. At wilting this afternoon and evening. Sunday. 26 September. 1948 - Hotel des lies Britannqime Aix-les-Balns, France. In the mud this morning, then to the casino for a reservation for a play tonight - end to the railroad station to find out about trains to Geneva. This hotel oloses on the 30th and I will bs obliged to move out so I will then travel on to other parts. This afternoon writing in my room and this evening 290 after dinner to the casino Theatre to hear an amusing play "Le Oendre de Mons. Poirier" done by actors from the Comsdle de lyon. I had a seat In the first row center of the orchestra but even at that short distance from the stage I missed many words. My hearing seems to have fallen off a good deal of late but only in a selec.tive way for some voices I hear with ease while others are very lndl stinct. Monday. 27 September. 1948 - Hotel d63 lies Brltennique Al*-les-Belns, France. My usual program today - a mud treatment, then writing muoh of the time, napping and reading. I am getting rested from Mont-Blanc, Turned In immediately after dinner this evening. Tuesday. 26 September. 1946 - Hotel des Ilea Britaainquo Ali-les-Balns, Franca, Again the earns dolly routine broken into this after.noon when I went to the office of a lady Dr. roneshowaky to have a mole removed from the hair of lay heed by an electric momethlng-or-other. I've had it for some time. I didn't bobber me but It Is well to hove it removed. People are thinning out in this hotel, a very few thi3 evening at dinner. 1*11 be sorry to leave. It ia a very comfortable place. Wednesday. 29 September. 1940 - Hotel des Ilea Britannlque Aix-le3-Balns, France. 291 Again ray usual program. X find a renewal of an old pleasure of childhood in being plastered with mud at the baths. When I was a small child I used to take great pleasure in making mud and sand cakes et play. Then later et kindergarten in Washington I recall my pleasure when Friday morning came around for on that day we children modeled In clay. Still later on in Burlington when I was older I took great Joy In going in swimming in the shallow maters of Flint Creek and there rolling end wellowlng in the soft alluvial mud of Iowa along with other boys, as each ac.quired a good coating of mud we would draw designs on each other with our fingers with the bare white skin showing through the coeting of mud. Thus I remlnisoed this morn.ing as Roger the bath attendant plastered my back and feet with this Alx-les-Bains mud and after my treatment of twenty minutes in the hot pack with blankets over me, would then sorape it off and doncfce me down. It waa ell pleasant and amusing. Following this treatment, Dr. lanoahowvetsky pronounoed the place on my scalp 0.1. where she had removed the mole yesterday for which operation she charged me equivalent of five dollars In Aoerloan money, The last time I had a teller operation Dr. Anderson of Washington charged me $50.00 and I decided never to go to him again. The rest of the day passed as usual at my desk with an Interlude of see 8 walk about town. 1*11 be sorry to leave this hotel tomorrow when the place closes for the season. The aooomodetion La first olass - room with bed and bath comfortable and beautifully furnished, excellent meals and all with perfeot service for 1000 francs per day which with the few extras for taxes end service, In all come to less than four American dollars dally. In thead days of Inflation and high costs an all sides where else could one possibly live so comfortably on so little? If inflation continues as It is going in America I may be obliged to oome over here in order to live* Thursday. BO September. 1948 - pension lilaerva, Geneva, Switzerland. The Hotel des Ilea Brltanalque closes todey so I am obliged to leave. These past few days I have been writing steadily, being In the mood for It. I regret making a change, Just now, In ay abode - and then too I like Aix- lea-Bains and am very comfortable here with e bright sunny room with a beautiful view out over the velley and the dis.tent mountains, perfeot servioe and good food. I hear bad reports from home of the continued fall In purchasing value of the doller- We who are on fixed in.comes may be obliged to seek residence in other parts of the world If this Inflation continues at home'. There hes been an Increasing oharrette these pant few days here in the hotel getting the plaoe Into shape to close E9S for the winter and today this was at Its height. I pecked my begs eerly, then went for my last mud pack end woe baok In my room by ten o'dock to write until lunch time after which I went to the station to come here to Oenere where I arrived at about six o' dock com.ing to this Pension where a room was being held for me. Dinner at the little restaurant by the Cathedral, a stroll along up end down the quay along the leke and be.fore nini o'doek I was in ay room and abed for tba night. Friday. 1 October. 1846 - pension Minerva, Geneva, Switzerland. I awoke at two a+U, and wrote until fire o'clock then slept until breakfast and at nine o'clock wes at the Baha'i Bureau to aee Etty Graeffe and get my letters from home - not many this time. Then about town to find an en.graver of metal to inscribe some small metal plates with appropriate Inscription to attach to the long metal tube oases to contain the several sets of prints as well as the original drawings for the Temple of The Faith for Mount Carmel _ one set to go to Shoghl Effendi - one to the Archives of the Ceuse In Chicago - one to be deposited with the records of the Faith of the Washington Assembly - and one for ay own keeping. Estimates are being prepared for me for this work. I aiould be able to have them made here for far leas expenditure than at home. Walking in front of the Duke of Brunewioks Monument 94 I chanced to meet victor Stanley of Washington and we had e pleasant chat that ended in hia asking me for dinner this evening. He is now reotor of Emmanuel church, the American Churoh in Geneve where hie pestoral work has Just begun. I used to meet him about la Washington where he has been curate at the Church of the Ascension for the past year or two. He 1* a pleasant and affable person. I had lunoh with Etty Qreeffe. Then went to my room for the afternoon and writing and et seven o'clock I was at "The Residence up not far from the Russian Church for dinner with Victor Stanley. The place Is e nice apartment hotel. There we went to the apartment of a iirs. Boothe and her daughter iilsa Louise Boothe, New Yorkers end Cosmopolitan drifters about Europe - very pleasant charming and bright lAdles of somewhat the old school. I found that we had mutuel friends in various places from Washington to Florence end some interests In common. After dinner that we had In the Reeidenoe dining room we returned to these ladles' apartment for coffee and more talk. Rrs. Boothe is blind and quite deaf but see has a bright mind and is much in touch with the problems of the day - excited as meny ere over the problems with Russian and tbe possibility of another war. At ten o'clock I said good night end wended my way over to and down through the old town past the cathedral and over the bridge to my Pension. 95 Saturday. 2 October. 194B - Fen slon Minerva, Geneva, ~ Switzerland To the Bafts' i Bureau this morning then about town for estimates on the metal plates with inscription for the oase3 for Jsjr temple drawings - and other things. At noon I lunohed with Xtty Graeffe. The afternoon until tea time was spent in my room after which I went to the small lie Jean Jacques Rousseau in the Rhone where Etty and four others came for tea with me - a small group to talk about the Faith. One of the men brought with him a Hindu from celyon who talked inoessently about everything imaginable in the way of "Movements". He had something political, I as sure, behind ell his words, had met Baha'is in various parts of the world. Said he was a friend of Gita Orlova and mentioned many Friends whom he knew. After the party dispersed Etty and I talked over the situation and agreed that he should never again meet with the Friends. This time it could not be avoided. But very few Hindus have come into the Bahai Faith. Prom my contact with them in India and elsewhere, particular.ly in the former days in Green Acre, I have found them to be fundamentally opposed to the basic principles (religious and spiritual) of our Faith and as I have encountered more trouble then virtue with them, I am very weary of them. Etty and I took a walk at sunset up to the Russian Ghuroh and through the old part of the city where she hed supper with me at the little restaurant near the cathedral. By eight .o'clock I was in my room and ebed. 896 Sunday. S October. 1948 - Pension Minerva, Geneva, Switzerland. Up at three o'clock this naming to sake up on ay writing the mount I did not do yesterday. At ten o'clock I was at the railroad station to meet Etty Graaffe, the Persian Baha'i students and several of their young Swiss friends, hoys end girls - we were hound for Plofcnick. Taking a train in the direction of Lausanne we went to a station called Mies and from there off into the country where we camped under some trees, had lunch end relaxed. The boys played football and did stunts - putting on Persian dances Bnd cutting up generally. One fellow rendered e speech in different babble - English, American, .renoh, German, Russian, Arabic, Hindustani, and Chinese. It was simply a conglomeration of Jargon but given with the mennerisaa and entonations characteristic of those different languages - all oleverly done and amusing. During this performance I was stung by s bee but without serious results. Between five and six o'clock wo were beck in Geneva, On my way to dinner I called at Hope Erwin's pension over by the university. 3hs was not In so I left a note asking her to have dinner with me on Tuesday night. Tictor Stanley will be with ua. I am turning in early after dinner, before nine o'clock. Monday. 4 October. 1948 - Pension Minerva, Geneve, Switzerland I went about town this morning after my acoustomed 297 cell et toe Baha'i Bureau, attending to ordering calling cords and stickers with my name and address and the matter of the metal plates for the oases for my Temple designs. Had an early lunoh at the little restaurant by tho Cathedral and at one o'clock was in my room for read.ing and writing. At four o'clock ermed with a bunch of fragrant pink carnations I celled on lire, end Miss Boothe to find them entertaining at bridge eo returaed to my room. I was at the Bureau at seven o'clock to meet Etty end Ann and Mr. Shafer, the young German employed at the American Express Company who is attracted to the Cause end we all four walked over to a restaurant in the old pert of the city where I entertained the group at dinner and where we remained in conversation for en hour or more afterwords. Tuesday. 5 October. 1048 - Pension Minerva, Geneva,Switzerland I plan going up to Zermatt tomorrow for a few days so this morning after visiting the Bureau I went about town attending to and paying for my stationary and other things and at noon wa3 again at the Bureau to meet Etty and lunch with her at her pension. To my room and at four o'clock again to the Bureau for tea with the members of the Local Assembly. After tea and half an hours ohat the members having ell arrived for their meeting X said goodbye and came back here to my 298 At seven o'clock I wes et the Hotel de Is Paix, in the same block with this pension for dinner, bovine asked Tlotor Stanley to have that meal with me and aleo Hope Erwin. Not heving beard from the latter I hardly expect.ed her to oome. I doubt if she is in town after ell al.though tbe maid at her pension said that she was here. There must have been some mistake about it. I bad a pleasant evening talking with Tlotor. He comes from South Carolina end knows people there with whom I have a pleasant aoqualntanco. He also knows some of our Remey family oonneotions. He knows some Butlers whom I have never met in South Carolina, we are cousins (tha Butlers) several generations removed and I don't know much about that connection. Wednesday. 5 September. 1948 - Pension Minerve, Geneva, Switzerland. This morning dawned overcast and cold and as X have been having a running nose the last two days I decided not to go to Zermatt until the weather changed or until 1 felt better so telegraphed to tbe hotel in Zermatt "Delayed" and spent the entire day and evening in my room writing, going out only for my two meela. Thursday. 6 September. 1948 - pension Minerve, Geneva, Switzerland. Had breakfast served in my room thle morning end re.mained there until half pest one o'elock writing. ATter lunch I went to the Baha'i Bureau to explain my continued 899 presence in Geneva and to ask Etty Graaffo for tbe name of the doctor she recommended to me last May who treated me for bronchial attach. 3he was not in ao I waited for her until five o' clock: without result save to talk a bit with Ann lynch and do some reading. I then want over to the other aide of town into the University quarter where I remembered the doctor lived and there I located him by the house in which he lived. Els name is Liohtenbaum end 1 mede an appointment to see him to.morrow at eleven thirty. Ur trouble is not yet serious. I want to do something for it before It gets any worse. I am sure X would throw it off without any treatment at ell but it is better to hurry It up this process as much ss possi.ble particularly as I want to be going up to zermett shortly. I spent the evening in my room writing. Friday. 8 October. 1946 - Pension Minerva, Geneve, Switzerland I had a call from Etty Graeffe this morning shortly after breakfast. She brought me several letters from home. At eleven thirty I was at the office of Dr. Liohtenbaum who gave me a thorough examination to find my bronchial tubas somewhat congested but other parts of me in good condition. He prescribed mediaines application and a oert8in kind of mineral water, all of which will keep me busy.for a few deys, but es I am in ay room almost all the time at writing these treatments will be workable. Saturday. 9 October. 1948 - pension Minerva.Geneva,Switzerland My days are much alike now. I Mi in ay room pract.ically all the time at my desk. I beve my breakfast served here going out only for ay two meals. This morning I walked over to the Baha'i Bureau to borrerw a Bible from which to look up some prophesies relating to these latter days. Instead of doing this writing and study of prophesy in Bern as planned I find myself doing it here in Geneva. It Is a comfortable arrangement. 1 em living economically here end am well housed and well fed. Sunday. 10 October. 1948 - Pension Minerva, Geneva, Switzerland I had breakfast in my room where I remained at writing all day and in the evening with the exception of going out for midday dinner and 3upper. Monday. 11 October. 1946 - Pension Minerve, Genovs,Switzerland Todays program was like yesterdays, save that I went to the Bureau this afternoon for a few minutes when Etty Graeffe helped me find s typist in the same building, who will type copy some of my manuscripts. Tuesday. 12 October. 1948 - Pension Minerva, Geneva,Switzerland This morning I went to the typist and started her on the copy work and thla afternoon I went to tea at the Bureau. Frau Distelhorst*s daughter was there. Her mother is now in Berlin with the Baha'i Friends, The rest of the day was apent as usual. 301 Wednesday. 13 October. 1946 - Pension Minerva, Geneva, Switzerland. Practically the same program today as with each of the last Tew days. The writing continue well but of course will never be finished beceuee when j finish one M.a.8. Immediately 1 apply myself to another. This afternoon I went to the Bureau for tea with Etty Braeffe and Ann .ynoh. Two of the Persian Beha*la studente were there. Thursday. 14 Ootober. 194.6 - pension Minerva, Geneva, Switzerland. To the Bureau thlo morning then to interview the typlet who Is transorlblng my pages of manuscript written reoently. This afternoon I called on Mrs. and Ides Boothe and to night Etty Braeffe had dinner with me at the tavern de la Madeleine after wnicb we went to a lecture at the home of Mse. Jerrys, the lady who had tea with ua the other day on the Isle Jean Jeoques Rauseau. There were about fifty people there - e fine looking and an interesting group of people to hear a gentleman from Brueaell apeak upon the spiritual awakening In the world during the past century. He mentioned the dete 1S4S which according to his calcula.tions was the beginning of this new epoch. Again he bed much to say about the things pointing to 1802 as being a date of special slgnirioance all of which interested us Baha'is because these dates so nearly coincide with import- dates of happenings in our Faith. 302 Friday. 15 October. 1046 - Pension Minerve, Genera, Switzerland. My usual program today. Writing with an Interview with the typist. Tonight I had supper with Etty Greeffe and Ann lynoh at the Bureau after which we went to the Kineteen Day Feast of the Genera Coaaunity, held in the rooms of one of our Peralan Friends. There were fifteen of us present. Three women and twelre men. The diecuBsion pert of the program wes lirely, amusing and spirited. Seturday. 16 October. 1948 - Pension Minerva, Genera, Switzerland. To the Bureau this morning followed by a busy day about town to the typist and other plaeeB preparatory to leaving Genera tomorrow for a day or two in Zermatt. Then on to Bern. Etty and Ann and one of the Persian studente had tee with me this afternoon and tonight I've been peeking and regulating ay affairs and papers. 17 October. 1948 - Hotel Bom, Zermatt, Switzerland This morning I took a stroll along the lake front and at eleven o*dock took a train for Tlap where I took the cogwheel road up here t. Zermatt, arriving shortly after four o* clock. Zermatt is a very quiet small town now. Almost all the hotels ere closed. The Hotel de la poste where I hare 303 always stayed while hew was boards up eo I am quartered in this nearby chalet Hotel, a muoh more modern place than the Hotel de la Poste. Word gets about this small town. I had planned going up to Zautt tomorrow to Bee ay guide Theodore but thia evening shortly after dinner he came in to see ms having "heard" that I was in town. We went over our regret st not being able to make another assault on the Matterhorn this sesacm, but for reasons i have already oitad suoh was impossible on account of the snow and ioe. Theodore tella me that four more men were killed on the mountain late in August, lifting this seasons toll to seTen. At sunset the Matterhorn was very beautiful, envel.oped part In ml st clouds and part In sunlight. The rook Is now white with ice and snow. There must be an "Bally Post" somewhere In germatt instructing the people In manners and with excellent results too. Tbs guides here are most polite but never osequlously .o, but with much dignity and so standardised la etiquette that I suspect some one person, or some institution la res.ponsible for it. They all run absolutely true to font. Monday. IB October. 1946 - Hotel Doa, Zermatt,Switaerlend After breakfast this morning I went to the shoe makers to rent a pair of hob-nailed shoes for a days hike in the mountelns, so by a quarter of ten reinforced with a bag of lunoh from the hotel, 1 started up the Tisperthal toward 304 the Tillage of Zmutt on the left aide of the Talley. In Zjoutt I stopped et Theodore's house. He wee up In the Staffel Alp tending his sheep so In continued on up the Thai. Sarly in the Morning I looked out ay window and up at the Matterhorn. The sky was free from clouds and the Morning was fine. On leering Zermatt I chose the route along the sunny side of the Thai, the right side, the opposite ,wey going up through the mode looked dark and cold while the side I was on was warn and sunny. By the time T readied Zmutt the Matterhorn was enveloped In clouds. I reaohed th Kalbermatten Chalet opposite the Staff le- ilp Hotel at about one o'clock. There 1 had a oouple of glasses of ailk served me and I ate ay lunoh, Then aTter half an hour's rest I continued on to e point in the valley north of the Matterhorn - a Most desolate valley this was. llorraine deposits with rocks that had fallen from the mountains formed the floor of the bottom affording but little to support vegetation. Here 1 orossed the stream by a wooden bridge end started down the right bank of the Tlsp. 1 made this same hiko a year ago this past summer. Passing the staffelalp Hotel 1 soon came to the pasture where I expected to find Theodore and there he was surrounded by his aheap. They were fine looking sheep ami friendly, orowding about me trying to run their noses Into my pooketa. I soon understood why when Theodore drew 304 ; the Tillage of Zautt on the left side of the valley. In Zmutt X stopped at Theodore's house. He was up In the staffel Alp tending his sheep so In continued on up the Thai. larly in the morning I looked out ay window and up at the Matterhorn. The sky wes free from clouds and the aorniog was fine. On leering Zermatt I chose the route along the sunny side of the Thai, the right side, the opposite ,wy going up through the w>ode looked dark and sold while the aide I was on was wara and sunny. By the time T reaohed Zmutt the Matterhorn was enveloped In clouds* I reached the Kelbermatten Chalet opposite the Staff le- lp Hotel at about one o'clook. There 1 had a oouple of glasses or milk served me and I ate my lunoh, Then after half an hour* a rost I continued on to e point in the valley north of the Mettorhorn - a most desolate valley this was. Morralne deposits with rocks that had fallen from the mountalaa formed the floor of the bottom affording but little to support vegetation. Here 1 orossed the stream by s wooden bridge end started down the right bank of the Tlap. I made thle same hike a year ago this paat Bummer. Passing the StaffsIslp Hotel I soon came to ths pasture where I expeoted to find Theodore and there he was surrounded by his sheep. They were fine looking sheep and friendly, orowilng about me trying to run their nosea Into my pookata. I soon understood why when Theodore drew 806 the hotel. It is indeed the end of toe season cere In Zermatt. At helf past eieren o'olook I took toe mountain railroad line down to BTigue. In the oerriege I was greeted by a familiar faoe. He was the typieal guide of Zermatt In his looks and manner. It was otto fhrer - former Swiss champion of Skeors, It wbs he who was porter for me end ay guides last summer a year ago when he took food and drink up to us the night we spent on the Matterhorn in the Solrey Cabin. He ,to Id me that in late September the upper rook of the Matterhorn was dry and free from ice. I dont know why Theodora didn't let me know thet the olimb was possible for me St that time. However it wouldn't nave been possible for me then for that would hare been too soon following the Mont-Blanc effort for me to hare taken advantage of it. After a welt of some time in Brlgue I took a train for Bern, where Mr a. run 2 and Elsa steinaots mat me at the station. X had telephoned the former of my coming so she kindly engaged a room for me here in the same pension where she lives so thither we three oeme for tea end talk. fritmi Shaver la temporarily confined to the house, lamed by e fall of some days ago, but able to hobble about - their apartment where a meeting was held tonight in oelebre- tion of the birthday of The Bab. There were twenty one of us there end wo hod a very heppy evening. Mrs. runz and Elsa reed ffora the Holy Words. Elsa now speaks Oerman with ease. She introduced me and I spoke for five minutes In 307 .French. Then for the one or t* present who only under.stand German Mrs. Kunz Interpreted for me from English. Abbas Begdadi was there end accompanied Mrs. Kunz and me e part of the way bade to our pension. Wednesday. SO October. 1848 - Pension Bols Fleur, Bern, ' Switzerland. Up at fire o'dock and at ay writing for three hours before breakfast. In to town this ncrnlng to attend to various matters. After lunch Mrs. Kunz asked me to her apartment for coffee and to meet Jiarohesa Gustlnan, a lady living here in the Pension, a Greek by birth married to an Italian. This lady isauoh attracted to the Baha'i Faith as la her daughter Princess Blone Di Morre living in Cairo who through lira. Kunz Is now in touch with the Believers lu Egypt. Mv next move was to see a throat specialist to have a treatment for a sore throat that has been with me for some days. Then I went to Frltzl and Elaa'B apartment where Beven of us Believers met for tee and for two hours of study of the Baha'i teaohings. Tonight Elsa and Frltzl, Abbas Bagdadl and I had dinner with Mrs. runz here ntbthe pension. We five had a table ia e ppeoial room so were able to hove a Baha'i talk at table as well as later in Mrs. Kunz'e apartment where coffee waa served. Abbas brought with him a book of tablets of Baha'o'llah in the original Persian and gove us free translations therefrom at sight. 308 Thursday, ex October. 1948 - Pension Blois Fleury, Bern, Switzerland. I're Just heard of Mise tirkpetrlck'e death and of that of Mrs. Edgeeomb eo have been writing to Mrs. Paine and to Bert Edgeoomb. Remained in my room reading end writing all morning. After lunch I went to the doctor Who gave me a throat treatment. The soreness Is about all gone. I walked about the town, wont into the oathedral and from there on to the bear pits where the usual crowd, mostly children, were feeding bunches of carrots to the bears - Just as they were doing in 1895 when I first vialted Bern with my parents and brothers and sisters. This evening there was a public meeting in the hall in the city where the regular meetings of the Baha'i Com.munity was held. We were sixteen present seated about a long table. Elsa Stelnwetz presided and when I spoke lirs.Kunz Interpreted my words Into Oerman. kjy subject wae the Message and the Divine Revelations that proceeded it and speaking of the Great Temples of the egea leading up to the Temples of the Baha'i Faith. Friday. 22 October. 1948 - pension Bois Fleur, Bern, Switzerland. X toot " nine o'clock train this morning for Geneva where I still hsd some things to do end piek up my luggage 309 left there when I entrained the other day for Bennett. I sew the typist and received from her the eopy work and then went to see the Friends at the Baha'i Bureau. Itty Graeffe kindly arranged at the American Express to have a eheok cashed for me ao all my business was easily accomplished. Etty llinched with me and I was back in Bern by a quarter after five o'clock. There was a devotional and study olass of twelve of ua Bahais tonight at the home of Mra. Althouse after which I went out with Abbas Bagdadl to e oafe tea room where we had milk and cakea and enjoyed a talk about the early days of the cause, his grandfather Hadjee Mohammed Mustapha Bagdadl of Beirut in whose homo I visited end stayed a number of times end of hla uncle Zie Bagdadl to whom I was devoted. In true oriental Baha'i fashion Abbas insisted on esoortlng me home where I arrived at l. the pension at about midnight. Saturday. 23 October. 1948 - Hotel des Sainta Peres, Paris Fraoe. At nine o* dock this morning I went to the dootors for a sinus treatment, then to market for soma lunch to take with me on the train. Abbas Bagdadl oame to the pension and went with me to the station where we were met by Mrs. runz to see at off. Fritzl end Else ere both laid up with torn llgementa. Last night I called them up but it was too late 310 to see them as they had turned la. The run here to Peris was without Incident. i bad the compartment to myself moat of the way. Now I am here again at my old stand - the Hotel des Saints peree. Sundav. Ed October. 1948 - Hotel des Seints Peres, Parle, France. This morning to the Flee Market, then I chanced to run Into Wilfred and Helen Putkamaar of Macklnack and Chicago. They were here for a few days enroute to Frank.fort In Germany where he has a teaching Job for a year. We had a piessent chat. To Eearlette* a tor lunch then to my room for a nap and et fire oclook I was at the Gare St. Lesare to go out to Puteaux to oall on the wife and mother-in-law (the latter line. Minerault) of Jean Monl whom I met in the Refuge Cabin on my first attempt on Mont-Blano. I had a pleaeant call on these ledies and met Mrs. Decker - Monl*a slster-ln-low married to on American army colonel whose home is In Wash.ington at tho Altemont Apartments. Returned to Parle before supper that I had et Henrietta's. The evening was spent In ay room. Yesterday morning In Bern I got a large box of chooo- letes to bring to Miss Sanderson here in Paris, hut on arriv.al et this betel found I had left It in the compartment of tbe train so on my wey beok from the Flea Market I went to the lost articles office in the Gere d i'Eat. The cleaners had gone through the train but my package was not reported. 311 I was the last passenger out of the car. It was careless.ness on ny part. I have traveled all summer with two large and three small pieces of luggage so not accustomed to this extra peerage, it didn't register with me'. Monday. E5 October. 1948 - Hotel des Saints pares, Paris, France. A very husy day. First to the American Express Compeny to arrange some finances then to the packers to oheck ay purchases to be shipped home. To the Flea Market to secure two urns and a bronze tripod that I sew there yesterday, then to grab a bite of lunch on Jay way to the shop of antiques to make payment for the flTe brass hanging chandeliers secured for Pohlok Church that I have been negotietlng for for eo long a time. Misa Sanderson had asked me ror tea so at half pest four o' dook I found jsyself at her apartment in passy. we had a very happy talk for an hour end a half about Baha'i matters. Some questions had arisen bb to Baha'i procedure in the Paria community that we talked *f from the point of view of the administrative procedure, later we were Joined by a Frenoh speaking lady, a Baha'i whose name I did not hear. Henrietto's restaurant was ay next objective, and at half past eight o'dock I waa at Colonel Alahis' apartment in the Mont-Pernesae quarter for a meeting of the Baha'is. This gathering is held here bi-monthly. I think I counted fourteen people. Mile Luoenne Miguette gave the talk. Un- 312 fortunately I did not hear many of her words. I sat a some distance from where she sat and she spoke in rather low tones. She asked me to speak and in about fire or ten minutes I told something about my summer travels among the Baha'is and their eetivitiee. Seyhoun, my Beaui-Arts ooaerade de 1'Atelier was there end we hed a talk together about our architecture end the Cause. There 1 also met a young man who told me he was the son of Tony Fillon of Santiago de Chile, that he had Just recently returned to France from Chile where he had been for e year end a half with hi father. I was delighted to meet him and hear of his father. Although we have not corresponded with any regularity, Tony is one of *y *o3t intimatoly sympathetic friends in the Baha'i cause. He had told me much about his eon during our short time to.gether in Chile three years ago. Tuesday. 26 October. 1948 - Botd de Saints Peres, Paris, France. To the Hotel Druout this morning where I ssw nothing that interested me. The place was crowded with people elbowing one another about each one trying to be the first into the exposition rooms. I walked baok here to the Quarter where X lunohed and spent the afternoon in ay room. After dinner tonight at Henrietta's I went over to sae Hr. Kennedy having telephoned him for the fourth or fifth time 3 IS since I reached Paris before I could find him. we bad a pleasant chat about Baha'i affaire. Wednesday. 87 October. 1948 - Hotel des Saints Peres, Peris, France. I was the greater part of the morning at the packers and the American Express company with the business of ship.ping ay purchases home. This afternoon and evening I wrote letters in ay room. Thursday. 8 October. 1948 - Brussels, Belgium. Leaving moat of ay luggage at the Hotel des Saints Peres end with a suitcase in hand going by metro to the Qare du Hord I entrained for Brussels at 9:50 this morning reaching here at two o'clock. The journey was without incident eve that it was very cold in the compartment with a glacial current of air on the floor that made one's feet very cold indeed. Jack Shurcliff and John Carre end his wife met me at the station. I had telegraphed Jack the hour of my arrival, leek took me to a small hotel near the Baha'i Center where e room had bean reserved and we then went to the Center where lack and kunaoe and their little girl live. There I had lunch after which we made a trip to the Americen Express company to get some Belgium currency and then 2 went to jay hotel room for a nap. There was a buffet supper followed by a meeting of the Believers this evening at the Center where fourteen of us 314 gathered, an Informal affair at which I told the .rlende some incidents of the Tery earliest history of the Faith in Europe - in Peris and in America, followed by an account of acme of my visits to the liaater. It was after eleven o'cioci when I reached my hotel. Friday. 9 October. 1946 - Brussels, Belglun This morning in ay room reeding end at noon at #65 sue Bosquet where 1 lunched with Eunaee and Jack Shurcliff. Mae. de Wendelen was of our party at table. It is her house where Eunace and Jack lire. This is the Center for Baha'i meetings. Several large first floor rooms with place for a hundred people or more with toe. de Wendelen living in the upper part of the bouse. After lunch use de wendelen. Jack and I went to call on a sculptor in his studio. Hera ws were met by a young gentleman with an automobile, a friend of Use. de Wendelen and on leaving the studio were taken on a round of the city sightseeing. They were very kind in wishing me to aee some of the very modern homes. We celled on several friends of toe. de Wendelen and I was shown through the interiors of three very beautiful homes - one large and luxurious apartmant done in the very latest Hollywood Modern etyle - a large house done in the French Louis in WL th modern touches - a small palace it was - and last to a very well done home in the Spanish style with a central -pattlo that appealed to me as a home more than either of the others. It was a pleasant afternoon's jaunt that ended with e visit to en old Abbey ehurob with its surrounding mon.astic buildings, e relic of the Medieval ages now com.pletely surrounded by modern Burseels - the church is still Intact for worship, the accessory buildings now being used for secular purposes, A rest and nap of an hour or more in my room and at half pest slz I was at the Sburcliffs for supper, followed by a meeting to whioh a number of new contacts had been invited. I must oonfeas that aa the hour of meeting approached I was as nervous as a oat. Had I been speaking in English I would not have been eo wrought up. There ere ao many words to be used in Baha'i llluoldation the equivalente of which in Frenoh that I do not know ao I am obliged to cir- cumavlgote around these terms using many words of mine own to get over a meaning that did I know the right French term could be expressed in one word. while I do not speak French wall, it is no more difficult for me to speak ex.temporaneously in Frenoh than it is in English - other then in using tbeaa Baha'i and other religious terms - my knowledge of Frenoh bavlna been acquired before I became a Baha'i and for the past forty five years I having lived in Amerioe where I had very little if any occasion ever to speak French. My subjeot was "The Bennsisenoo of Religion". I spoke for ebout fifty minutes following a ten minutes*in- 316 troductlon by Mae. Ruys end the subject went over very well. There was wrapt attention end an inspiring spirit in the group - people remained on until heir past eleven o'clock, various of ue explaining the teaching to groups of people. Saturday. 30 October. 1948 - Hotel de Haaa - Amsterdam, Holland. I wanted Eunece and Jack ana little Frances to have lunch with; mo today but they had planned otherwise so 1 lunched with them after which Jack took me down to the Gere du Midi for the express train to Amsterdam - not a long run but one that took five end a half hours with e stop of almost two hours at the frontier where the pro.cedure was long and oomplioated. Twice my luggage was examined. Twice I made a declaration of my finances and five times my passport had to be produced. On arrival in Amsterdam Rita Ten Sambeek and one of the men Beho'ie met me at the station and brought me here to this hotel where a room had been reserved for me. A meeting tonight was held in the apartment of Site van Sambeek. We were between twenty and twenty five people. My talk was a general review of the Message with a brief account of the Master's visits In iurope and America. X spoke in English that was understood by all present. Upon leaving the meeting Arnold ven Ogtrop brought me beck to ay hotel, on the way stopping at a cafe for milk and cookies. Hero we bed s good talk. For over twelve 517 years Arnold was the only Baha'i In Holland so we went over the story of the efforts to Implant the Baha'i Faith In thle oountry. I was under the Impression that Martha Root had visited Holland hut Arnold, Rita and Charlotte Stirratt tell me there is no record to that effect. Daniel Jsukya of St. Ires in Cornwall, England was tho first one to bring the Message here to Holland. This was in 1913. S. George Enzlyn and a Mr. Tan Winkle of Blaricum l Forth Holland beceme interested. Through Daniel I received their names and addresses and in 1914 George Latimer end 1 came here and spent a week in Mr. Tan Winkles home as bis guests. Here among the various people whom we met was a Miss B- lerdiyk. These Friends translated and published a book that I had written on the Ceuse and Mr. Enxyln translated end published a pamphlet also written by me but published under his name for some reason or other leaving out the name of the writer of the booklet. Copies of these publications ere now in the hands of the Pioneer teachers in Holland. At one time Miss Wright of Boston visited the Hague and talked with some people there about tho Faith, and on one of my visits to this country I went to The Hague and celled on two of these gentlemen - one e librarian - tbe other B former realdent in one of tbe Dutch East India Colonies. In 1020 I again spent some days here in Amsterdam ais where Mr. Tan Vtinckel was then living. At that tiiae I visited the Hague where I met Djenab-Bbn-Astaque whom the Master had sent to The Hague to present to the peace Con.ference gathered there the "Hague Peace Tablet" copies of the translation of which have had a wide circulation among the Friends of the Cause throughout the world. At that same time the brother of Miss lerdlyk, an arohiteot living in Apfeldoorn in the Eastern part of Holland, asked me to visit him and I went there and spent two days with him end his wife where gatherings were held in his bouse of people with whom he hsd told of the Baha'i Faith. But when our pioneers arrived in Holland a little over eighteen months ago all of these people had Sled and Arnold van Ogtrop was the only Baha'i here. He heard The Message and believed la England through Mark Tobey who lived there for several years. Sunday. SI October. 1948 - Hotel da Hasa, Amsterdam, Hollend In my room writing ana reading until one oclock, when Arnold van Ogtrop cane for lunch with me. Following our meal together we took a walk about through some of the old streets of Amsterdam and at tea time were at Rita von Sombeeko where several were gathered. Later seven of the Friends came hero to the hotel for a "Dutoh treat" dinner. Then we all went back to Rites piece where twenty two people were gathered - mostly men. X spoke on The Mossage and on the Temples of religion past and present. The spirit of the meeting was very good indeed. Charlotte Sterratt was with us. She leaves in the morning by plene for Lisbon to pioneer there in The Cause. One of the young men Believers escorted me back to the hotel, we stopping on the way for milk end cakes in a cafe. Monday. 1 November. 1848 - Brusells, Belgium. X made a walk of half an hour this morning to a Gothic Church done in brick like most of the Dutch buildings,the interior of whioh was interesting although it followed stone Gothic forms. Some of the very modern buildings here in Amsterdam are very good as for example the Stock Exohange Building. The old houses are fine and interesting too, but in between these extremes most of the houses are terrible, even worse than the average in the English cities. This same criticism also holds for Brussels. At eleven o'clook I was off for Brussels in a comfort.able second class oompertment. At the frostier there was a very rigorous examination in both leaving Holland and on entering Belgium - about as thorough as one experiences on entering America et Sew York. Arriving here at four o' clock I taxied to my hotel then went to the Shuroliffs'. Jack and I made a walk about the town calling at three Baha'is homes. Then 1 went to my room for a rest before going again to the Shurcllffs for 320 supper, where we were six Believers at table and were Joined by nine others later and to this group I spoke In French for two hours upon Baha'i travels about the world, speaking at length about several pilgrimages to the Holy Land with visits to The Master. I left the party et eleven o'clock to coiae here to ay room. Tuesday. 2 November. 1948 - Brussels, Belgium Up early this morning and to the Gare du Hord by tramway where at nine o'clock I took b train for St. Truiden to see my ftlond of last year in Zermatt, Joseph Buyskens. After some difficulty I found him end we had 8 pleasant chat and talk, He wanted me to remein the day with him and bis wife, but I had a two oclock engage.ment here in Brussels to meet some friends of the Shuroliffs, so took a half past twelve train beok to Brussels. I spoke to Joseph about the Baha'i Felth and will arrange for him to meet Jack and Bunaoe hoping that they will attract him in to the Cause. At two o'elook I wes at the Baha'i center and talked with the Friends there for an hour and a half then went to ray room for a nap. At six o'elook I called for Jeck and he went out for dinner with me. At half pest eight the congregation convened at the center. Besides the Believers there were about thirty new people, several of whom were architects invited to hear about the Baha'i Terapie that I led up to by explaining the ! w i religious influences in the past ages that hed given birth to civilizations wLth their Temples of different styles of arohiteoture, 1 talked for half an hour then Jack showed pictures of the Temple in Wilmette projected on a screen after which people remained until eleven o'dock eeklng about The Cause end discussing the teachings. The result Boomed to be good. Everyone was happy end in good spirit although I did not feel that 1 bad been at ay best with my Frsnoh. Wednesday. 5 November. 1948 - Hotel des SBints Peres, Paris, France. Writing letters this morning. yack came at eleven o'clock and took ne end ay luggage to the Baha'i Center where twelve of the Believers were assembled for o buffet luncheon after which I made the two o'clock trein for Peris. Five of the Friends including Jaok were at the train to see me off. These Believers in Brussels ere similar to the Baha'is in the Orient in their kind atten.tions to the visiting Friend. They couldn't do enough for me! In Paria I .find myself now Installed for two days in this hotel in ths Latin Quarter where I have stayed number of times. Thursday. 4 Rovemher. 1948 - Hotel-des Saints Pares, Paris, France. About town all day. To the united States Lines offioe, the American Express company, the packers and gathering together some purchases and making others end packing. Keif past eight this evening found ae et kiss Sander.son's apartment where the Baha'i Friends were asseablylng for the Nineteen Bey Feast - sixteen of us in all added to which number were two small and very well behaved children of two of the Persian Believers living In Paria. Mrs. silk whom I had had the pleasure of meeting several years ago when she,wee pioneering out in Idaho, was with us. She is travelling about Europe In the employ of the United State. I delivered to the paria Friends a quantity of canned and dry foods that 1 brought from Brussels from Eunace and Jack Shurcllff end a package of coffee that Urne. de wendelen wished tp contribute to these Peris Friends. I handed the packages over to Jir. Kennedy who will distribute them among those who need food the most. By midnight I ws back In my hotel room and abed. Friday, a November. 1949 - On Board the 3. S. Amerioa - Bound from the Havre to New York. Bate yesterday afternoon I took my heavy luggage over to the Care St. Lazare so my early get away from the Hotel des Saints Peres early this morning was made easily. No taxi was available so 1 made ay way on foot through pouring rein to the nearest subway atetion after which I was under cover. The run to the Havre was without lnoldent and by noon I was aboard tbls ahip oomfortebly settled in a large cabin with a private batb room that I will share with three other men - judging from their looks they will he pleasant roommates. This is my forty third Atlantic crossing and it begins pleasantly. I an leaving no serious regrets behind me in Surope and have a number of interesting and absorbing prob.lems ahead of me at heme with which to occupy myaelf on landing. I've accomplished most of the things that I wanted to do on theae reoent travels in Europe {one never Quite ac.complishes 'everything he wanta to do) and I've bean abla to do a number of things that I bein' t counted on doing. To ba sure tba suamlts of Mont-Blano and the Matterhorn were not attained and It doesn't look as if I would aver be com.ing over here again doing more mountain climbing, but tha unexpected often happens, so I may yet reaoh those summits. Most of all I have again been impressed this summer aa I was last summer - with the very devoted and selfless services to the Baha'i Faith of the Pioneer teachers In the British isles and on the Continent who are spreading the Faith there. Mot hing that I can write could adequately describe their services. X have been profoundly moved through my contact with them. tm- to Cils aeSoa *uoo7 u.laiaoj uo .& puoo se iCta uo -AT i. JB-T , Alfred and "larre BAHA1-BEWEG1NG mvmsioH Les Baha'is de Bruxelles out l'honneur S'inviter M.......................................................-....................................... & la confrence, cgrsento do projections lunineu- ses, qui sera donnie par Monsieur C Mason Beney (architecte de Washington, D.C., .S.A. - dlgu de la Connunapt Baha'ie Internationale l'O.H.U. ) sur Ie sujet J "LA REVELATION BABI'IE A TRAVERS L 'ARCHITECTORE" au Centre Baha'i - 65 rue Bosquet - Bruxelles rardi - 2 novedbre 19I18 - d. 20 heures. IHVITATIOK Les Eaha'is de Bruxelles ont l'honneur d'inviter a la conference oui sera dennee par Monsieur C. Mason Bemay (architecte de 'Washington, B.C.,tT.S.A. - dlgu de la Communaute Baha'ie Internationale a l'O.H.U.) "REHAIfXABCE BE LA CIVILISATION" au Centre Baha'i - 65 rue Bosouet 7 Bruxelles vendredi - 29 octobre, 1949 - a 20 heures. BAHA! SUMMER SCHOOL Eastwood Grange Ashover DERBYSHIRE PROGRAMME AUGUST 28th SEPTEMBER 18th, 1948 BAHA'f PUBLISHING TRUST .asst? '-i.- (a> gj,i Shlrjz ,0 ,h(! .ǥ>'the .* slfesi.SStfSSffiSK" - ISllSil SATURDAY. .EPTEM HER I Uk YOUTH DAY ................ (see Advent o. The Kingdom SU.VDAY, SEPTEMBER 12th THE PILLARS OF THE KINGDOM John Ferrary MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13th. THE NEW RACE OF MEN .............. Isohkl Loi:ke TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 14th NIGHT SHALL NOT OVERTAKE THIS DAY WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15th A WORLD HELD TO THE LIGHT Hasan RalyL'2C The Cause of God marches over the five continentsFirst and Second Seven Year Plans (U.S.A.), Six Year Plan (British Isles). Four and a Hall Year Plan (India). Forty-live I fSill! I S. EVENING SESSIONS SATURDAY. AUGUST 28th UNITY FEAST SUNDAY, AUGUST 29th THE BAHAI TF.MPLE MONDAY. AUGUST 30tk PIONEERS TUESDAY, AUGUST 31st FREE FOR ALL-DAY EXCURSION WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 1st CONCERT Recorded music and local talent. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 2nd THE DAWN " A script by Mary Basil Hall, produced by Ursula Newman. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 3rd BAIIT FORUM SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 4th YOUTII DAY (see separate programme). THE MARRIAGE OF EAST AND WEST ...Beknaed Leach MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 6th PIONEERS ^ TUESDAY. SEPTEMBER 7Ik FRF.F. FOR ALL-DAY EXCURSION WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 81k THE BAHAI FAITH IN INDIA Mekkan la* MunsiM THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 9th HEROINES OF THE FAITH FRIDAY. SEPTEMBER Wik IN SUMMER SCHOOL TONIGHT SATURDAY. SEPTEMBER 11th YOUTH DAY (s separaLe program mu). SUNDAY. SEPTEMBER 12th CONCERT Recorded music and local talent. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13th PIONEERS . J 1 .. s- -1 TUESDAY. SEPTEMBER 14th FREE FOR ALL-DAY EXCURSION WE DNES DA 1', SEPTEMBER lSlh " BEHOLD THE LIGHT ^ ^ |j t . THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 16th SUMMER. SCHOOL ON THE MAT PR!DAY. SEPTEMBER 17th UNITY FEAST DEVOTIONAL MEETINGS will l>e bold every morning before breakfast from 8.45 u.m. They will also be held each night just before bedtime. The time will bo announced. THE 19-DAY FEAST OF -IZZAT will be held on Wednesday, September Stli, at 3 poll. AMUSEMENTS In the Afternoon various amusements will be organised, such as walks, games swimming, elc., and in the Evenings there will be plays, concerts, a brains trust, dancing and games. Plans will be announced each day. ei S1BS5 9 An early uaha'l publication In the Netherlands